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Just picked her up from the Stealership. So after talking to the Service Writer, who talked to his manager who talked to the Tech who relayed everything back to the service writer now says all cylinders have zero compression. This is what they wrote exactly on the job sheet:
"Found code for cam sensor fault in ecm. Remove spark plug and found no compression. Suspect timing chain concern. Will need to R&R motor to further inspect. 12 Hours Labor"
I tried to ask three different times why no further troubleshooting was done on the cam fault. No answer. I asked them about my warranty and they told me it expired. So I'm assuming they never even called my after market warranty. He had to keep going through his manager instead of them just coming out and talking to me. So stupid.

My aftermarket warranty strictly states it covers timing chains:
Engine: All internally lubricated parts, including: pistons, pins, rings; connecting rods and bearings; crankshaft and main bearings; camshaft, followers, and cam bearings; push rods, valves, retainers, springs, guides, seats, followers, and lifters; rocker arms, rocker shafts and bushings; internal reed valves (where fitted), transfer port valves, timing gears, timing chains, timing belt, timing chain/belt tensioners and retainers; eccentric shaft; oil pump. Oil pan; intake and exhaust manifolds; engine mounts and cushions; engine torque strut, timing cover; valve cover(s); harmonic balancer; flywheel (flexplate) and flywheel ring gear. Turbo/Supercharger (optional): Housing and all internal lubricated parts and waste gate are covered.

By the way my oil is spotless. You think if it threw a chain you would know about it. Whether the noise when it happened or metal in the oil.

So thats the latest. Gonna do some more troubleshooting when it isn't 108 degrees outside and 130 in the garage.
I see your up in roseville don't know how far that is from concord motorsports but they are a pretty good dealer I have 3 friends in the san diego area that went up and bought their cars from them great prices and service, when I had my popo and on the forum their was a guy having all kinds of trouble with his new car (lemon). They stepped in and got him a new car and took care of everything , really good guys Home - Concord Polaris and Trailer World. + can am dealer looks like they have a 2020 rr rc
 

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Just picked her up from the Stealership. So after talking to the Service Writer, who talked to his manager who talked to the Tech who relayed everything back to the service writer now says all cylinders have zero compression. This is what they wrote exactly on the job sheet:
"Found code for cam sensor fault in ecm. Remove spark plug and found no compression. Suspect timing chain concern. Will need to R&R motor to further inspect. 12 Hours Labor"
I tried to ask three different times why no further troubleshooting was done on the cam fault. No answer. I asked them about my warranty and they told me it expired. So I'm assuming they never even called my after market warranty. He had to keep going through his manager instead of them just coming out and talking to me. So stupid.

My aftermarket warranty strictly states it covers timing chains:
Engine: All internally lubricated parts, including: pistons, pins, rings; connecting rods and bearings; crankshaft and main bearings; camshaft, followers, and cam bearings; push rods, valves, retainers, springs, guides, seats, followers, and lifters; rocker arms, rocker shafts and bushings; internal reed valves (where fitted), transfer port valves, timing gears, timing chains, timing belt, timing chain/belt tensioners and retainers; eccentric shaft; oil pump. Oil pan; intake and exhaust manifolds; engine mounts and cushions; engine torque strut, timing cover; valve cover(s); harmonic balancer; flywheel (flexplate) and flywheel ring gear. Turbo/Supercharger (optional): Housing and all internal lubricated parts and waste gate are covered.

By the way my oil is spotless. You think if it threw a chain you would know about it. Whether the noise when it happened or metal in the oil.

So thats the latest. Gonna do some more troubleshooting when it isn't 108 degrees outside and 130 in the garage.
IMO, you definitely have some avenues you can try. First, find out for sure from Service Writer if this dealership did file a claim. Odds are they probably didn't by the way it sounds. If that is the case, you can have a field day, especially if you're a veteran. First notify the BBB, and put in a complaint. Next every town has a news station that has a segment "on your side", let them go interview them. Nothing worse than bad press. Contact BRP about the shady dealings this dealer is doing. Tell them to look at this thread.

While all that is going on, get your car out of there, take it to another dealer, even if it's a couple of hundred miles away. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
IMO, you definitely have some avenues you can try. First, find out for sure from Service Writer if this dealership did file a claim. Odds are they probably didn't by the way it sounds. If that is the case, you can have a field day, especially if you're a veteran. First notify the BBB, and put in a complaint. Next every town has a news station that has a segment "on your side", let them go interview them. Nothing worse than bad press. Contact BRP about the shady dealings this dealer is doing. Tell them to look at this thread.

While all that is going on, get your car out of there, take it to another dealer, even if it's a couple of hundred miles away. Good luck.
So I confirmed that nothing was ever filed with my warranty. Not going to any extreme measures of rolling people over with a bus, till I know exactly what is wrong.

Next steps I have taken:
-I have 12volts at the CAPS harness.
-Confirmed 12 volts at all three ignition coil plugs at the harness.
-I do have a question for your geniuses out there. All three of my coils have a resistance of 1.6 at the primary winding. The secondary winding cannot be tested on these. The service manual calls for .85-1.15 unless for some reason on the 2018 models it is higher. Maybe someone can confirm for me? I only have the 2017 service manual. Is that higher resistance an issue? What would cause all three coils to go bad at once if that is the case?

I also double verified all engine grounds from factory are tight.

I'm learning a lot about where everything is that's for sure.

Onto the next steps. Wish my new CAPS was here. But going to dynamically check my existing one. Gonna check the CPS resistance as well.
 

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So I confirmed that nothing was ever filed with my warranty. Not going to any extreme measures of rolling people over with a bus, till I know exactly what is wrong.

Next steps I have taken:
-I have 12volts at the CAPS harness.
-Confirmed 12 volts at all three ignition coil plugs at the harness.
-I do have a question for your geniuses out there. All three of my coils have a resistance of 1.6 at the primary winding. The secondary winding cannot be tested on these. The service manual calls for .85-1.15 unless for some reason on the 2018 models it is higher. Maybe someone can confirm for me? I only have the 2017 service manual. Is that higher resistance an issue? What would cause all three coils to go bad at once if that is the case?

I also double verified all engine grounds from factory are tight.

I'm learning a lot about where everything is that's for sure.

Onto the next steps. Wish my new CAPS was here. But going to dynamically check my existing one. Gonna check the CPS resistance as well.
File a complaint with the BBB!!!
 

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Found the problem! Gonna go enjoy the pool, have some shots and some cold beers. Anyone wants to guess, I will give you a hint. Excess fuel smell in oil.
Well, are you dropping it off at another dealer so you can attempt to use your warranty?
 

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Well, are you dropping it off at another dealer so you can attempt to use your warranty?
I was able to fix it myself. Some of you probably know what cylinder wash down is. I learned something new today. Anyhow, pulled the plugs again, put some fresh oil down each cylinder after changing the oil and filter, cranked it over a few times, ran a compression test and it was solid. Put everything back together and it started right back up. What caused that from the beginning is unknown. Starting and stopping to move it a couple feet, leaking injector, not sure??? At least its not a $7100 new RR motor.
 

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I was able to fix it myself. Some of you probably know what cylinder wash down is. I learned something new today. Anyhow, pulled the plugs again, put some fresh oil down each cylinder after changing the oil and filter, cranked it over a few times, ran a compression test and it was solid. Put everything back together and it started right back up. What caused that from the beginning is unknown. Starting and stopping to move it a couple feet, leaking injector, not sure??? At least its not a $7100 new RR motor.
Dealer would have you waiting months for a new engine, they would never figure it out. Good job. Now keep an eye out for the root cause.
 

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I was able to fix it myself. Some of you probably know what cylinder wash down is. I learned something new today. Anyhow, pulled the plugs again, put some fresh oil down each cylinder after changing the oil and filter, cranked it over a few times, ran a compression test and it was solid. Put everything back together and it started right back up. What caused that from the beginning is unknown. Starting and stopping to move it a couple feet, leaking injector, not sure??? At least its not a $7100 new RR motor.
Glad you fixed it, now go enjoy it!
 

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So glad you fixed it. Already found you another engine for 2100 just in case.

but now what is going to stop this from happening again?

what is the root cause?

did all injector hang open or did one?

why did the cam sensor code go off?

so many questions..........

get a a new dealership, that was a nightmare!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
So glad you fixed it. Already found you another engine for 2100 just in case.

but now what is going to stop this from happening again?

what is the root cause?

did all injector hang open or did one?

why did the cam sensor code go off?

so many questions..........

get a a new dealership, that was a nightmare!
I believe it was caused because I had my race tune (Stage 3R) turned on and it dumps more fuel than a standard tune (Stage 3) and all I was doing was moving it in and out of the garage multiple times and on and off the trailer. Couldn't burn all the excessive fuel. That's is the only thing I can think of. Packard is sending me a revised tune so that Sport Mode is Race tune running 110 and Eco Mode is a standard 91 tune. I also will put the car back to a different tune other than the 3R when not out running it hard.

Did we decide on what proper compression is on these? How much oil did you use in each cylinder?
Wellllllll...The service manual doesn't say. Ive searched for days and never found the definitive answer. I was basing that assumption off that each cylinder was 155-160. I changed the oil, then put a couple squirts from my oil can in each one. Cranked it over a couple times. Tested the compression. All was good. Put it back together and it started right up.

Just ran it this weekend. Put 60 miles on it rock crawling on Fordyce and high speeds along the mountain roads with no problems. I was just running the stage 3 tune not stage 3R
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Awesome, does the compression test results change with elevation? Will a good test at 9000 feet be different than a good test at sea level?
That I do not know. Everything I did was at home. I'm sure someone on here has the knowledge to answer that question.
 

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ok at sea level air psi is about 14.7 psi x 8.5:1 pistons = 125 psi compression
now at 9000 ft air psi is down to 10.5 x 8.5 = 89.25 psi so yes, big change
 
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