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I found these in a 18 in that’s long enough View attachment 245511

perfect, they will be here Thursday. I thought BOV would help avoid this, guess not. My next machine is getting intake plenum, don't want to waste money on this machine as its last ride is this weekend then the 2020 shopping begins
 
Chanses are the plenum is made out of ABS. So ABS adhesive would be better than epoxy as it would melt into the plenum, where as the epoxy would only be on the serface edges.
 
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perfect, they will be here Thursday. I thought BOV would help avoid this, guess not. My next machine is getting intake plenum, don't want to waste money on this machine as its last ride is this weekend then the 2020 shopping begins
Matt, when the throttle plate closes (letting off gas pedal), the build up of boost happens between the throttle body and turbo. The turbo is still spinning creating boost, but with the throttle plate closed, it has no where to go. So that is where the bov comes in. Now once the throttle plate is closed, it segregates the motor side from the extra boost buildup. In fact, there is probably vacuum in that intake manifold once the throttle plate closes.
 
Sorry to revive this old thread but this is something worth doing to prevent down time or a ruined weekend. This would be a good thing to add when people ask "what's the first things I should do?" (Grease bearing, remove wheel scrapers, reinforce plenum etc)

What size clamps will work?

Previous post about ABS glue being better than epoxy. That sounds great if the part is in fact ABS. Is it ABS?
 
once they break they are probably not repairable
plastic zip ties do not have enough strength do do anything
 
Yes but how about adding glue before it breaks?
I wouldn't trust any glue to keep it together and air tight. Pressure test tp make sure it holds air if you are going to bandaid it. Or buy a new one and then epoxy around and use hose clamps/ cv boot straps.
 
I wouldn't trust any glue to keep it together and air tight. Pressure test tp make sure it holds air if you are going to bandaid it. Or buy a new one and then epoxy around and use hose clamps/ cv boot straps.
Yeah mine is still fine and I want to prevent anything happening to it so I'm going to add hose clamps. I guess my question is epoxy vs ABS glue?
 
This is what I did and so far it has held up great with almost 1000 miles @ 30 psi.

Drilled around the perimeter.


258253


Tapped for stainless 5mm button head machine screws that were long enough for washers plus a nylock on the opposite side.

258254


Installing fasteners. I used Vibra-tite on the threads.



258255


Filed the perimeter with a rasp file and used Permatex Black Plastic Welder to run a bead around the manifold.


258256

258257


Done

258258
 
This is what I did and so far it has held up great with almost 1000 miles @ 30 psi.

Drilled around the perimeter.


View attachment 258253

Tapped for stainless 5mm button head machine screws that were long enough for washers plus a nylock on the opposite side.

View attachment 258254

Installing fasteners. I used Vibra-tite on the threads.



View attachment 258255

Filed the perimeter with a rasp file and used Permatex Black Plastic Welder to run a bead around the manifold.


View attachment 258256
View attachment 258257

Done

View attachment 258258
Awesome. Looks good. Thanks for the write up! Your posts have helped me a lot.
 
To properly measure for clamp size, get a string and wrap it around the intake plenum. Use the string length to determine how big the clamps need to be. Then add about an inch or so.
Ah , that's right, the good old plenum clamp trick. 🤔

If the OP is running high pressure I would go billet from LaRue or Whalen.

edit: Whalen

 
It appears the plastic stock plenums ALWAYS blow apart on the seams. Just use a better bonding adhesive or grind a V grove in the seam and fill it in with JB weld .
The sealing onto the head is also shaky at higher boost with the stock plenum, you really need a tight O ring seal.

So it comes down to buy a machined aftermarket plenum with a center intake for a balanced charge. If you are going after 300+ hp get a 6 injector model.

Plan it all out forehand, make sure your tuner supports whatever you do, some tuners whine if you don't buy their 4 or 5 hundred dollar injector set. That is their hook on your pocket. I know this as a fact, I fell for this when I was a rookie.

Most 45mm class aftermarket turbos call for 1200 to 1400 cc injectors ($450) for a set of three. A set of 6 stock X3 XRS
(675cc $35ea) provides a more effective solution and keeps money toward a machined 6 injector plenum.
 
It appears the plastic stock plenums ALWAYS blow apart on the seams. Just use a better bonding adhesive or grind a V grove in the seam and fill it in with JB weld .
The sealing onto the head is also shaky at higher boost with the stock plenum, you really need a tight O ring seal.

So it comes down to buy a machined aftermarket plenum with a center intake for a balanced charge. If you are going after 300+ hp get a 6 injector model.

Plan it all out forehand, make sure your tuner supports whatever you do, some tuners whine if you don't buy their 4 or 5 hundred dollar injector set. That is their hook on your pocket. I know this as a fact, I fell for this when I was a rookie.

Most 45mm class aftermarket turbos call for 1200 to 1400 cc injectors ($450) for a set of three. A set of 6 stock X3 XRS
(675cc $35ea) provides a more effective solution and keeps money toward a machined 6 injector plenum.

and how do you drive these extra injectors...oh ya a $5000 ecu...LOL
 
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