I would start by changing plugs out first. And get an in-line spark indicator.

 

Spark plugs are next

 

Fuel at fuel rail? Swap keys?

 

Yup disconnected fuel at fuel rail and it pours out. Tried both keys

 

Good luck and let us know , somebody else had a problem like this ,but after doing some welding and his battery getting low some how he lost the marriage of the key to the ecu so had to get them reacquainted so to say

 

I have a few more questions, maybe someone might have the answer too.

I tried someone else's key and it wont even attempt to start. Wouldn't that be the same case with my keys if they weren't married to my ecu?

Does anyone have a diagram of the electrical system that supplies spark? Which connectors I need to check?

Can I just swap out someone else's key and ecu to see if it will start?

I'm guessing BUDS has a way of seeing what is happening if it was hooked up to the X3 while starting. Anyone close to Sacramento that has BUDS and wants to make some side money

I haven't had time to pull the spark plugs to see if there isn't spark. I'm just assuming there isn't. I went through pretty much everything else last night.

 

I doubt its plugs, I am worried its your ECU. you could at least pull a coil out and put a plug in it to check for spark? I think yes you need ECU and a matched key for it to start, but I have never tried this

 

The fact that its not firing at all tells me its not cylinder specific, things like plugs or coils. If it was one of those, it would fire up but have misfires. Fuel is good, I am assuming air is getting into the cylinders, has to be spark related but something that all cylinders share like a map sensor or something all cylinders have in common.

 

If one coil, plug or cylinder was bad would run like shit but would fire off. I think something with the tune / ECU? just weird it ran fine after moving then wont fire? Did being on the charger blow a fuse?

 

The fact that its not firing at all tells me its not cylinder specific, things like plugs or coils. If it was one of those, it would fire up but have misfires. Fuel is good, I am assuming air is getting into the cylinders, has to be spark related but something that all cylinders share like a map sensor or something all cylinders have in common.

Thanks guys...You are on the same page as me. Unless of course all three plugs are fowled, but I have a hard time believing that. However I do run Leaded 110 50/50 with 91. I put it back to factory, tried different tunes. Same thing.

Fuel is good. Maybe 2 months old.

Here is a video of trying to start it. This is from tonight.

I did finally found the service manual. I'm gonna copy and paste the Diagnostic Guidelines. It says "plug" not "plugs". You cant tell me one plug would not allow it to start. I went through everything again. Checked every CPS, CAPS, MAPTS connector. Made sure it was connected. Every fuse. I checked the "ECU validation" from the service manual.

This is also from the service manual. Maybe I do have a defective CPS? I never checked the trigger wheel. Anyhow, guess it is going to the dealer.

 

Bad fuel?

 

This has happened on my waverunners and my boat a couple of times. Change dspark plugs and cam back to life.

but again you have to know if you are getting power to ignition coils and then fire spark.

 

Crank position sensor?

Any dtc's on the tuner?

 

Pulled the plugs out. The S3 video shows the way to do that. This is what they look like.

Gonna check spark once I have someone here to push the start button for me.

 

put plug in coil and sitting in driver seat reaching through center cover and hold plug against engine for ground. Its real obvious if there is spark, be careful with the paste on re-install

 

Look like one hell of a gap

 

This isn't the Yoga Pants thread Bro.

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The gap was set at 028 which is spec. I have spark. Put in new plugs. Same thing. Off to the dealership tomorrow. Watch it be some stupid ground wire. My buddy mentioned testing fuel pulse but that was after I put the muffler and everything back on. Tired of dealing with it.

 

I would put a new set of Brisk CR10YS Silver Racing plugs gapped at .020. When I got my X3 out for this spring I had a bad plug and I don’t know why. So if you had two bad it wouldn’t run but they may spark until you get them under pressure in the cylinder.

 

Get a spry bottle with fuel, take out the air filter, as someone operates the starter mist some fuel in to the intake.
If there is any sign, as if it would like to start, you know that it is fuel related.
By the by, did you try the other key?

 

Please update us when you find out what it was/is.

hope they find it quick.

 

So here is the latest. I got a call from the dealership on Saturday and they said what they found was a code for the cam sensor, but they also said they did a compression test and one cylinder had zero compression. Then he went on to say it was $7100 for a new motor and they don't rebuild the existing one. Needless to say, I said I will pick it up tomorrow. I didn't even want to talk to them. You cant tell me within an hour diagnostic they went to it all needs to be replaced. And of course no warranty coverage because of aftermarket parts but he couldn't tell me what aftermarket parts voided the warranty and why. He also couldn't tell me anything about the CAPS (Cam Positing Sensor) being the mechanic didn't put any additional notes in the computer and he was just the service writer.

I'm going to do some further testing on my own. I have the service manual and my buddy is going to help me check each injector (make sure one is not stuck open), Injector coils, CAPS, CPS, do our own compression and leak down test. I have all the tools to do it. Make sure all of that is in the correct parameters. And since they mentioned a CAPS code, I ordered a new one for $35. Its gonna be a couple weeks before we get too it all.

If we conclude it needs rebuilt, I will call nFlow and talk to them. I may actually call them today. I also may reach out on here and see who people recommend to just have the motor built while it is out of the car. Not sure if ALBA, KMS, EVO, Whalen or other vendors do it.

I just don't understand how the car ran perfectly fine. Moved it in and out of the garage several times and no problems to "zero compression" in one cylinder.

Anyhow I will keep the thread updated when I get more info.

 

So here is the latest. I got a call from the dealership on Saturday and they said what they found was a code for the cam sensor, but they also said they did a compression test and one cylinder had zero compression. Then he went on to say it was $7100 for a new motor and they don't rebuild the existing one. Needless to say, I said I will pick it up tomorrow. I didn't even want to talk to them. You cant tell me within an hour diagnostic they went to it all needs to be replaced. And of course no warranty coverage because of aftermarket parts but he couldn't tell me what aftermarket parts voided the warranty and why. He also couldn't tell me anything about the CAPS (Cam Positing Sensor) being the mechanic didn't put any additional notes in the computer and he was just the service writer.



I'm going to do some further testing on my own. I have the service manual and my buddy is going to help me check each injector (make sure one is not stuck open), Injector coils, CAPS, CPS, do our own compression and leak down test. I have all the tools to do it. Make sure all of that is in the correct parameters. And since they mentioned a CAPS code, I ordered a new one for $35. Its gonna be a couple weeks before we get too it all.

If we conclude it needs rebuilt, I will call nFlow and talk to them. I may actually call them today. I also may reach out on here and see who people recommend to just have the motor built while it is out of the car. Not sure if ALBA, KMS, EVO, Whalen or other vendors do it.

I just don't understand how the car ran perfectly fine. Moved it in and out of the garage several times and no problems to "zero compression" in one cylinder.

Anyhow I will keep the thread updated when I get more info.

Was this the mechanic or the service manager? They have to tell you, and it should be shown to you in writing. Was this with RPM1? Curious.

 

Oh you were the one with the Packard tune, right?

 

Yup - Guess we will see if that is related or not.

Was this the mechanic or the service manager? They have to tell you, and it should be shown to you in writing. Was this with RPM1? Curious.

Service Writer. I asked to talked to the Mechanic but of course he was unavailable. You cant even call and talk to any of the service writers. You have to submit a form online from their website and they have 24-48 hours to call you back. Its a joke.

even with a dead hole it should attempt to start sputer or backfire and since it ran fine before he parked it it has to be a fuel, elec or some sensor thats telling the ecu not to let it fire up

That is how I feel. I had zero issues or codes before all of this happened. Never went into limp mode, never backfired, ran strong.

 

Only two things come to mind for zero compresion: Open valve and hole in piston.
Hole in piston will have massive blowby.

 

even with a dead hole it should attempt to start sputer or backfire and since it ran fine before he parked it it has to be a fuel, elec or some sensor thats telling the ecu not to let it fire up

 

Isn't there a better option than the zombies at the Stealership's service department in your area ?
Of course they want to sell you a new motor, probably don't have a clue how to install it let alone how to get the existing one out, but those apprentices need the experience.

In all seriousness, there's got to be a build shop within a reasonable distance, right ? Many work with extended warranty's if that's the issue. Stealership / Service writer will blame any tune or mod's done to help the warranty company ditch responsibility. Probably get a kick back each time.

Must be frustrating as Hell. Hope you find the solution.

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This took a turn for the worst, take it somewhere else

 

Did you have a rodent chew through some wires?

 

I went through just about the entire harness including pulling every panel off to visually inspect. I'm going to start blaiming it on the previous owner we just bought this house from. He had a 4seater RZR. I think the bad POPO juju rubbed off.

 

Bad key?

 

Just picked her up from the Stealership. So after talking to the Service Writer, who talked to his manager who talked to the Tech who relayed everything back to the service writer now says all cylinders have zero compression. This is what they wrote exactly on the job sheet:
"Found code for cam sensor fault in ecm. Remove spark plug and found no compression. Suspect timing chain concern. Will need to R&R motor to further inspect. 12 Hours Labor"
I tried to ask three different times why no further troubleshooting was done on the cam fault. No answer. I asked them about my warranty and they told me it expired. So I'm assuming they never even called my after market warranty. He had to keep going through his manager instead of them just coming out and talking to me. So stupid.

My aftermarket warranty strictly states it covers timing chains:
Engine: All internally lubricated parts, including: pistons, pins, rings; connecting rods and bearings; crankshaft and main bearings; camshaft, followers, and cam bearings; push rods, valves, retainers, springs, guides, seats, followers, and lifters; rocker arms, rocker shafts and bushings; internal reed valves (where fitted), transfer port valves, timing gears, timing chains, timing belt, timing chain/belt tensioners and retainers; eccentric shaft; oil pump. Oil pan; intake and exhaust manifolds; engine mounts and cushions; engine torque strut, timing cover; valve cover(s); harmonic balancer; flywheel (flexplate) and flywheel ring gear. Turbo/Supercharger (optional): Housing and all internal lubricated parts and waste gate are covered.

By the way my oil is spotless. You think if it threw a chain you would know about it. Whether the noise when it happened or metal in the oil.

So thats the latest. Gonna do some more troubleshooting when it isn't 108 degrees outside and 130 in the garage.

 

I see your up in roseville don't know how far that is from concord motorsports but they are a pretty good dealer I have 3 friends in the san diego area that went up and bought their cars from them great prices and service, when I had my popo and on the forum their was a guy having all kinds of trouble with his new car (lemon). They stepped in and got him a new car and took care of everything , really good guys Home - Concord Polaris and Trailer World. + can am dealer looks like they have a 2020 rr rc