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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I’m not pointing any blame towards you I appreciate your guidance.
Here is why I believe they are all balls.. just broken down in individual items for sale.

Complete kit from all balls site.

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pictures from Super Dave’s of the kit broken down into individual items.

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
A wonderful lady at Superdaves was evasive where they were supplied from... just said they get them straight from the manufacture. Which I would expect...They might not be the same thing...They sure look to be identical.

The all balls stuff is marketed under several names including Moose racing.

I do not believe the ones on Superdaves site will fit my 2015 Mav XDS even thought it shows they fit on there website., I put a little more research in and it looks like I have the 709401493 rack and pinion. From my research this car has a 16mm inner threads. I will pull mine apart and make sure before ordering.


I'm curious as to what superdaves gear box upgrade gains a person...I believe he tightens up the lash and puts bushings into the output shafts to take up the slack...So you end up with a tighter front end? am I missing anything?
 
I'm curious as to what superdaves gear box upgrade gains a person...I believe he tightens up the lash and puts bushings into the output shafts to take up the slack...So you end up with a tighter front end? am I missing anything?
I sent my whole box off to Super Dave's for a rebuild on my 2013. It was in really bad shape. I would say the rebuild feels much tighter than even a new rack. Time will tell how the parts hold up, but it is still tight as new after a lot of rough miles.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I sent my whole box off to Super Dave's for a rebuild on my 2013. It was in really bad shape. I would say the rebuild feels much tighter than even a new rack. Time will tell how the parts hold up, but it is still tight as new after a lot of rough miles.
thanks for the info, I have a few more things to tighten up, then I’ll send my box to them.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Ok the superatv’s HD inner tie rods ended up in my opinion to short. I did find a “MOOG” part that is almost exactly the same dimensions as the Oem, I plan to pick up some blue loctite tomorrow. We will get the moogs installed and aligned.

where does a guy find a service manual for a 2015 xds?
 
Ok the superatv’s HD inner tie rods ended up in my opinion to short. I did find a “MOOG” part that is almost exactly the same dimensions as the Oem, I plan to pick up some blue loctite tomorrow. We will get the moogs installed and aligned.

where does a guy find a service manual for a 2015 xds?
I am glad I stumbled onto this, I need a new right side inner tie rod end as well on my '15 mav xds turbo, as mine is bent, I have CT race worx tie rods, not sure if the rod ends are stock or not, assuming they are, so also assuming the CT tie rod may be able to be modified slightly if needed also since its beefy enough probably.

What moog part did you find that works? Is there any modifications to tie rods you need to do still, drilling/tapping larger?

Also do I have to remove the whole steering box to get to the inner tie rod end, or can it be accessed without removing it from the machine?
Not looking forward to this job, ugh.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
It was pretty easy, heat the inner tie rod, the loctite will let loose. The stock inners don’t have a flat spot for a wrench. I used channel locks, figured I could use a pipe wrench if required. The moog number is a ev415, please take note I have very little time on these. They do have a lifetime warranty if you buy them local.
I have the turnkey outers and tube, it was a direct fit. I like that they are made in US. They are maybe .5” shorter but on my set up I have lots of threads in both sides. I’m replacing the lower ball joints now with kryptonite death grip lower ball joint. My research shows our sxs has the same lower as the x3.
 
It was pretty easy, heat the inner tie rod, the loctite will let loose. The stock inners don’t have a flat spot for a wrench. I used channel locks, figured I could use a pipe wrench if required. The moog number is a ev415, please take note I have very little time on these. They do have a lifetime warranty if you buy them local.
I have the turnkey outers and tube, it was a direct fit. I like that they are made in US. They are maybe .5” shorter but on my set up I have lots of threads in both sides. I’m replacing the lower ball joints now with kryptonite death grip lower ball joint. My research shows our sxs has the same lower as the x3.
Thank you!!!
I'm assuming once I remove the boot over the inner rod end I'll be able to see where to heat the end better and everything else needed to switch these out?
 
I just went through this. Inner ball and socket on rack end are junk. I looked all over for the correct upgrade and there is nothing out there so.....I went to Master Fabrication. I used a Clevis from a 2020 razor xp. Same size M12 bolt that we have. I also had him make the tie rods. His stuff is top notch stuff. You will need to drill out knuckle for heims but that is easy. I already had double shear knuckles so it was super easy. My steering is absolutely amazing. Zero play. Make sure you check your measurements and make sure his tie rods won’t hit stock arms.
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I just upgraded my rack and pinion from super atv “rack boss heavy duty” I have hcr long travel kit so the new tie rods that came with the kit didn’t fit. I went to a machine shop and had tie rods built. 65 bucks for 3 tie rods I used 1inch aluminum round stock.

I just finished installing it tonight so I haven’t tested it out.Our options are limited with these machines plus having long travel doesn’t help.
 
Ok, so I put the new moog inner tie rod end in just a bit ago, noticed the tie rod sleeve had to sit out further on the threads from where the original was to have the outer tie rod end meet up with the spindle in the same place, no biggie just adjust it so equal portions of thread are out on both tie rod ends, put everything back together and go to make finishing adjustment on toe in/out and tire is not moving when turning the tie rod sleeve, but can definitely see that the ends are threading in and out when twisting the sleeve, but its not making any adjustment on the tire. So I know the inner tie rod end is a right hand thread, both old and new one are, not sure on the outer end, but I'd assume the outer should be a left hand thread correct? Also I am wondering if previous owner did something different when he installed the CT race works tie rod sleeves, cause the only end I had out was the inner, I removed the outer tie rod end from the spindle but not the sleeve. Any one have any insight as to why I'm able to twist the tie rod sleeve but am getting no adjustment from it??
 
Sounds like the inner ball is just spinning in the cup. Try holding the inner with a wrench while you spin tie rod. Sound like your only spinning the ball and cup. This will not widen or shorten the tie rod length
 
Sounds like the inner ball is just spinning in the cup. Try holding the inner with a wrench while you spin tie rod. Sound like your only spinning the ball and cup. This will not widen or shorten the tie rod length
It is not actually, I tried to post a video where you can clearly see it is not spinning in the cup, but I don't know how to post it. The sleeve is the only thing moving in/out on the tie rod ends itself. If someone wants to post the video for me I can try send it to you.
 
Well with some quick help from AZJD, checked over a few things and found both ends of the tie rod are actually RH thread as are both tie rod ends also, of course, so someone must have re-threaded one end before I purchased it for whatever reason. Only thing I don't know now is which end is supposed to be LH, inner or outer.

Thank you again AZJD!
 
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