^^^ Sure, mine is available along with corresponding OEM bushings for the larger OD bar for not much $$. Mine has a few scratches from removal but otherwise fine. These aren't too spendy discounted from RMATV but shipping cost will be a factor depending on your zip location. PM me and we'll see where this leads...

 

^^^ OK, "you made me look" again and you are correct...

MavS Max (60" 4-seater) does share same F/R sway bar (and bushing) P/Ns with MavS X-variants (64" 2-seater), which is a variable I hadn't anticipated. Perhaps same larger diameter bars WRT greater loaded weight of chassis and passengers? So then, this mod also applies to MavS Max. Unsure however about effect on stability on the longer cars, so for those looking for articulation benefits, proceed at your own risk with the smaller diameter bars noted in red text.

++++++++++++Front+++++++ Rear

MavT ++++++706202846+++++706002716

MavS ++++++706203595+++++706002972

MavS Max+++706203649+++++706003475

MavS Xrc +++706203649+++++706003475

 

Next question.. is the Thicker MavT bar hollow or solid vs the MavS bar?

 

^^^ What makes you think any of MavT/MavS bars are hollow vs solid stock? Bar weight alone suggests to me solid plus the necked-down flanges for bar ends are solid as this pic of the front bar on my former MavT illustrates:

 

Haven't touched any model other than my own, just a question for thought. Sometime bigger isn't better if it's hollow. I had a different brand/model of UTV previously and the bar was hollow, I upgraded to a solid bar. The solid bar was smaller diameter but performed significantly better. So I guess the point is, the diameter alone isn't the measure of an actual spring rate calculation for a swaybar. There are various factors unknown to me that would weigh in on my decision to change bars.

 

^^^ Consensus with many with MavT/MavS is than BRP lawyers have been overly cautious to avoid lawsuits resulting from rollovers, thus stiffer than necessary bar diameters, from which articulation then suffers. Your thought towards stiffer than OEM rear bar surprised me, especially in combo with front bar removed which seems would result in significant oversteer. If mine was a MavS Max. now knowing same bar P/Ns as MavS X-variants, I'd leave the rear alone and swap the front for the lighter MavS 60" class bar in this mod topic.

 

When racing offroad, we ran no front bar and a stiffer rear bar. It did have some oversteer... maybe a lot of oversteer. But made the machine handle way better in the hands of a skilled wheelman. Would I ride shotgun with a novice. Prob not.

 

I know this is a very old thread. Hoping that the OP DirtDawg might answer a few questions on this topic. I'm a new forum member and apparently can't send PM's at this time.

I have a 2020 Maverick Sport XRC that I currently run without the front sway bar, but with stock rear bar. From reading this thread and doing some other research, I am leaning towards trying the swap to the 60" smaller diameter bar. My questions are: 1. What is the articulation gain ( in inches) of the smaller bar vs stock? 2. Are you still running this setup and have you had any issues after the swap?

Have any other members tried the smaller diameter rear bar?

Here in TN there are many riding areas that are rocky, with deep ruts...where additional rear wheel articulation would be a benefit. As most have noted, running without the rear bar completely is not recommended.

 

As most have noted, running without the rear bar completely is not recommended.

I recommend it. I suspect most that don’t have never even tried it

 

@Woofer - In brief, yes still running same combo smaller diameter front & rear MavS bars 2 years later and I remain delighted approaching 7k total miles. Relative differences in front end articulation were posted here on Nov 1, 2020.

I changed the rear bar 3 weeks later (post #23) but didn't measure articulation differences. Objective with that bar being for a balanced match front to rear. If you decide to order the front bar, don't forget to also order new bushings corresponding to the smaller MavS diameter as shown earlier in this topic.

 

DirtDawg: I had noticed the measured differences on your front bar swap. I have ran without on the front and have been very pleased. I don't see the benefit of putting the smaller bar on the front compared to without (for my riding). My thoughts on putting the smaller bar on the rear though, was that it would be a compromise between stock and no bar at all. i.e. improved articulation while still having some control over potential body roll. Without the exact measurements, would you say there is noticeable articulation gain in the rear with the smaller diameter bar?

Turbo392 - I was initially just going to remove it and then decide to leave if off or not after some riding. I don't drive on pavement much other than at lower speeds if connecting to other trails, so body roll is not a concern to me on the road. However, we do end up on some trails where you are occasionally on a hill sideways. Mostly if trees are down on a main trail and there is a go around required. In those cases, not sure about the roll effect. Maybe, I am overthinking this. Have you encountered any scenarios where not having the rear bar is a disadvantage?

I appreciate the feedback from both of you.

 

Have you encountered any scenarios where not having the rear bar is a disadvantage?

I appreciate the feedback from both of you.

I do occasionally run short distances on forestry and oil lease roads. The machine will lean a lot at high speeds but never to the point of being unsafe. ie. I can still outrun my friend with with a stock KRX on gravel. I can’t think of any situation on a trail it has caused a disadvantage, including side hills like you mentioned, but I do carry a chainsaw so I’m less likely to try something sketchy versus cutting my way through fallen trees.

 

^^^ As stated previously in this topic, my buddy with same model, mileage, usage and tires (we always run together) continues using his own Xrc with front bar removed entirely but the OEM rear bar in play with complete satisfaction. I still prefer my "balanced" setup, however concede I haven't tested other than the heavier OEM Xrc bars vs lighter MavS bars. It would be simple to leave the rear bar in place while temporarily disconnecting the end links and cable tying those items out of the way for evaluation purposes but I have no desire to do that.

IMO, there would be an increase in rear articulation with the lighter bar and much more with none, however the percentage decrease in bar stiffness is less dramatic on the less-small diameter MavS rear bar than on the front as my earlier posted rough calculations revealed. I/we do drive pavement often enough, including secondary AZ highways up to posted speeds (often necessary to avoid becoming safety hazard for those following), thus controlled steering response is an important factor for me.

 

I’ve almost laid this machine over once with no sway bars, these machines have a very good low center of gravity compared to my old Commander that I tipped dozens of times on the same trails.

 

I took the bars off in stages. First the front and rode trails and found a good performance increase in the technical trails. The rear still kicked from side to side when going over logs/rock and berms. I then took off the rear and had a very large increase in trail performance and made things a lot smoother/stable and seems to crawl over obstacles a lot easier. Like Turbo says it leans more cornering on the forestry roads and does over-steer more when accelerating in the corners. But the sidehill stability seems to be not much different than before. I ride mostly the trails and don't need the cornering benefits as I don't push it on the roads. Definitely not putting them back on.

 

Y’all are making me think I need to try unhooking the back sway bar. I took the front off and agree it makes a world of difference.

 

OffRoad Tood - I appreciate that feedback, especially about the sidehill stability. It's good to hear that there are a few who have removed the rear bar, are happy with the results, and have not had issues for trail riding. My goal was to get some improvement ( from the rear) when going over rocks, ruts, logs, etc... I'm ready to give it a try and remove mine. It may be a month or so before I can give it a true trail test, but I will report back my results.

This forum has been such an excellent resource I will say.

 

I didn't like the amount of body roll with both bars removed. I went with a custom dual-rate setup on the rear and now run with no sway bars and limited body roll.
I've had it out for a few rides now and the difference is very noticeable while not sacrificing the ability to drive aggressively.

 

Both bars removed from mine, will never go back on!
I actually don't find the amount of body roll to be significant or bothersome, even in fairly fast corners if broad sliding or side hilling.
Granted I'm not course racing nor did I purchase the machine for that purpose.

 

I haven't had a chance to remove my rear bar as of yet. The plan remains to test ride it without and determine next step. The posts on this thread have been helpful. My expectation is that I will be very pleased without the rear and just leave it off. My riding is almost all on the trails and if I do go on pavement I have no issues with maintaining slower speeds to keep control.

trackside - Did your dual-rate setup increase ride height at all compared to stock? I've started to research dual-rate setups just in case I'm not happy with stock shocks and rear bar off. I was looking at front and rears where you did get a height increase, however, the overall cost was around $1k. Too much at this point.

seniorxmr - Did you remove the rear bar yourself? I read on one post about removing the passenger side lower control arm bolts, to then drop arm to get the sway bar out. That seems straight forward but if anyone has a little more guidance on the steps to follow it would be appreciated.

 

Your ride height is determined by the amount of weight compressing the spring. You can adjust the spring pre-load to raise/lower the ride height based on the weight the machine is carrying - driver/passenger(s)/gear.

2022 XXC

 

Woofer: That is exactly what must be done to remove the rear sway bar. I also removed to shock to make it easier.
I found I never gave up any control on pavement & found little to no extra body roll.
It seems rear springs are quite heavy enough to control the body roll.
I believe the only reason for the sway bars is probably manufacturer liability.

 

One thing to point out for people is that the spring package on the XMR is stiffer than on the XRC, XXC and Sport 60" models. I can't speak for the others but I do know that the stock rear spring rate on the XXC was 250lb.
For me there was too much body roll without adding additional support....but I'm a bigger guy and almost always have a passenger and approx 40lbs of gear in the trunk box....not to mention the extra pounds the mud adds by the end of the day!

 

Does the machine need lifted some off the ground when removing control arm or leave it sit normal? Thanks.

 

^^^ Definitely lifted and supported. As I posted 2 yrs ago, passenger side removal for easier access to mtg bolts. I also supported the same side axle with jack stand to limit droop (both wheels removed).

 

Thanks, DirtDawg for the additional information. I have clear direction now on how to proceed.

 

Unless you're absolutely certain you will leave the rear bar off, I suggest simply disconnecting the end links and doing a drive-about. A lot of effort to do that work twice if not satisfied with results.

Warning, A-arm bolts are very tight ALL the way off, at least mine were & not in a handy place to use an impact very much, but worth every aspect of the struggle

Agreed. Also to mention to Woofer that he'll need a suitable torque wrench to return to OEM specs (mine is 1/2 drive to 250 lb-ft). Hopefully, proceeding with a soft copy of the BRP repair manual purchased and ready to go.

 

Warning, A-arm bolts are very tight ALL the way off, at least mine were & not in a handy place to use an impact very much, but worth every aspect of the struggle

 

Thanks, guys. I do have a suitable torque wrench. I'll try the drive about test first with some cornering. I wasn't expecting the repair manual would be needed for the lower A-arm bolt removal, other than to reference the correct torque when reassembling. I'm certainty not opposed to buying one, but what else would useful for this task from the manual?

 

I disconnected mine but it looked to me like it would pinch the brake line if there was substantial articulation? Am I look at this wrong?

 

I was going to try the test drive on level ground to get a sense of the body roll effect of removing the rear bar. The brake line would be an issue on trail conditions as I look at it.

This stock spring rate differences is definitely another variable I hadn't considered. My comments on increased ride height were based on considering Dual Rate Springs from the company Shock Therapy. With aftermarket springs it should help minimize body roll. The only drawback for me is the cost on that option.

 

The X-MR's are sprung pretty hard, thus the reason there's very little body roll with-out Stab bars, increased spring rate to increase ride height would make it ride considerable rougher!
At 14-15" GC on a 64" machine with stock 28" tires. how much more GC is required that a set of 32" wouldn't fix.