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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Changed engine oil while skid is off. Trans and rear diff still to go. Changed the front diff too. I noticed they added a magnet to the fill plug in the diff now as well.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Here is a look at the bottom of the engine. They have changed the oil filter drain to the same size 17 as the oil drain. That is nice. It still sits partially over a cross member which is dumb. The oil does drain straight down and the oil filter location is easier and much better to wipe up if some runs down it compared the the x3. I used a canam oil change kit for this one with 3 quarts of oil and filter all included. I had read reviews that 3 quarts wasn’t enough so I did buy a 4th for a spare. I drained all and then dumped in 3 quarts as the manual states is the capacity. This is way easier to get to than the x3 is. The canam video says start it and let it run for 15 minutes and then check. So I went ahead and did that and bam dead nut in the middle of the fill range with 3 quarts. I went ahead and have added 10 more ounces and haven’t hit the top of the full range yet. To see how much more it will hold and I like to be on the high end just in case of a leak or something. But 3 quarts is perfect really and super easy to measure and dump in.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Well went and changed the transmission and read diff oils tonight. I learned 1 thing changing the transmission fluid. Don’t run the machine without the fill spout on. I did on the first check and it was fine but only in park. I then filled it again and then did the check and thought I would cycle into reverse and drive. That was a mistake. So just a heads up haha. I have 34 hours on the machine so figured I would do the first change on all the fluids before my glamis trip. The transmission plugs I though looked pretty good. Very little metal fragments and the first change.
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Discussion starter · #68 ·
I like it so far. Going to be doing some testing at glamis in a coupon of weeks. I find the R is much quieter to begin with compared to the X3. Never did drive it without it so can’t really give you a comparison to dust/noise though for sure. I helped them come up with the design and then change the intake piece.
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
Took a Forstner bit and deepened the holes tonight for when I put the skid back in with screws the heads dont hang down and will be protected some. This is just temporary until I can get a factory UTV skid plate.
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Discussion starter · #70 ·
Got the whip mounts finished up. And also machine and fixed the super ATV flip up seat bases so that they can actually still have a person sit in the back seat hahah. Also tacked the little spacers in place so you can actually get them lined up and the pins or bolts in place.
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Discussion starter · #76 ·
It’s super easy. It’s two pieces of flat bar about 4 inches long and two holes in each haha. There are holes right there in the winch mount area that you can bolt them right in. I have a winch in there as well and doesn’t seem to be any issues!
 
Took a Forstner bit and deepened the holes tonight for when I put the skid back in with screws the heads dont hang down and will be protected some. This is just temporary until I can get a factory UTV skid plate. View attachment 321071
If you had a sheet of aluminum. Would it be east to use the factory skid plate for a template? Any holes you would make a little bigger? I have a weld on skid for the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
You could. I would make sure you cover it will uhmw on the bottom after you put the aluminum in. The aluminum does not slide. But it would be easy enough to drop the rear section use it as a template to add the aluminum plate.
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
Spent a week in Glamis. The car turned over 1000 miles while I was down there. The max in the dunes does not feel any bigger than my 2 seat x3 in the dunes. It was super fun to drive and has plenty of power! I really liked it. I have it paired with a set of 32” sand craft destroyer slayers in 14 paddle. The setup seemed to work really well. The transmission did not bug me at all and I basically left it in automatic and sport plus the entire time. The only time I really shifted it was at Oldsmobile hill going up the hill through the whoops it would hunt a little. This was due to being pulling fairly high rpm in 3rd then would hit a whoop and lighten the rear end and it would rev more to shift to 4th, but then when it came down it really would want to shift back to 3rd and it would kind of go back and forth. So I would just bump it and hold it in third and it was great. Overall the max shocks are setup better from the factory than the 2 seat. There were g outs where I would bottom but it took much more than the 2 seat that is too soft in the rear from the factory. The max is super stable in the dunes and over the whoops is incredible. I could drive it much faster than I can my x3 that has full suspension work. It would not buck side to side through them. I did get a little bucking in the back on occasion but it always stayed straight. Even when I would hit them at a 45. The mid range on the machine is incredible and it really has another gear pun intended than the x3. I have it on a Whalen ws180 tune. That’s where you really notice the difference between the two. When you are really able to open it up that’s where you can run away.
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Discussion starter · #80 ·
Also I have a front and rear bent metal windshield on my machine. I do not have a roof scoop. The machine water temp never got above half. I obviously don’t have a way currently to monitor transmission temps but I never had a problem. It runs the fans more in sport plus and the highest my air intake temps got were about 120. When running not in sport mode they would be 130-140 but I never pushed not in sport plus. The 2 seat has the same windshield setup as I do but it has a roof scoop. Water temps were the same but his air intake temps running no sport plus were about 20-30 degrees cooler. This is the feedback I am able to provide on this with the gauges we have.
 
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