What's your RPM at 50 mph WOT?

 

I’ll have to test it tonight.

I thought the engagement was a little low. 2050rpm but that would mean there’s to much weight on the heel?

The target RPM is 8100 according to the sheet. Is that at WOT at Any speed or are most based on 50mph


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You really should be doing wot runs on flat and up a hill and document rpm every 10mph and adjust from there. Gotta have a baseline to compare when you change stuff

 

Alright. I think the RPM is a little low.


4250@10mph
4650@ 20mph
5350@ 30mph
6700@ 40mph
7150@ 50mph
7200@ 60mph
7350@ 73mph


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Thats not what he meant by check rpm at speeds, floor it, WOT and note the rpm as your passing those speeds

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That doesn't seem right. You should have higher rpms at the lower speeds. From a roll at about 10 mph floor it and watch the rpms. It should spike up close to 8000 rpms and then immediately drop back down to mid to upper 7000s. At about 60 mph it should be about 7800 to 7900 and then go higher as speed increases. If the rpms are low remove weight. If rpms are high add weight. It helps if you have a boost gauge, too. Low boost can mean low weight. The engine needs to be under load in order for the turbo to build boost to develop peak power. If you have too little weight on the clutch arms the clutch will not shift and load the engine. This will give it a weak feeling. If you have too much weight on the arms the rpms will be low but it should still pull hard because the engine is loaded. It will pull best when the weight is correct. Good luck.

 

Did you change secondary spring? Sounds like you have a secondary with no spring preload on the helix.

 

I did the following

New helix
New secondary spring
New primary spring
Secondary Rollers
Primary o rings and sliders
Service.


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Do you have a time? Maybe with a PV3 you can take a log with?

Here is a rough guide on what the components in the CVT do.

https://blackmarketutv.com/blogs/news/cvt-tuning-general-rules

Your RPM are low. I think you need less cam arm weight overall.

 

This was a DIFFERENT setup that OEM so the rpms that you should be targeting should be between 7900-8100. This setup target 9000-9200 because of the aftermarket cams. It also has more turbo lag and takes longer to build boost/rpm. It also has a very high engagement of about 4200-4300 rpm.

Here is an example of what I would like to see in the RPM shape. Basically you want RPMs to quickly come up to target RPM and hold there until full shift out where RPM will then rise with MPH.

You can see in these this example it come up to peak 91XX rpm then holds that RPM (drops slightly) as it shifts out. It hits full shift out at about 74 mph (you should be more like 50-60 for full shift out) and from there rpms rise with mph.

RPM to Full Throttle

RPM at Shift Full Shift Out

RPM at Top Speed

 

I tried to get numbers again and exploded my belt…

So I will get a new belt and retest. I would be loosing RPM because of a slipping belt? Would I


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I tried to get numbers again and exploded my belt…

So I will get a new belt and retest. I would be loosing RPM because of a slipping belt? Would I

You will loose speed and gain RPM

 

Any recommendations on belts. Stick with the Can Am or get an Evo?

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Any recommendations on belts. Stick with the Can Am or get an Evo?

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I run Evo but OEM is as good from what people say. I put new belt on before they blow. Every 800-1000 miles so far and have never blown one. Evo 3R tune and a clutch tune.

 

Clutch slip also adds a lot of belt heat. Probably the reason you explodes the belt…

My fav belts are the Worlds Best Belt. Sold under EVO name, Trinity Racing, some others…but they are all GBoost belts. You can verify that but reading what’s printed on the side.

Currently belts are on sale.

https://blackmarketutv.com/search?type=product&q=drive belts*