if you dump water on the rad and it cools down it sounds like it all working properly. Might want to check the rad a bit better to see if there is a dirt insulation that has built up.. I understand you checked it but its still sounds like this might be the case! This or the water pump is spinning on the shaft at higher RPM's..

You should be able to hear the intercooler fan running as it closer to your head.. Mine hardly ever comes on unless it really hot out and run hard

Do you ride in MUD often? any mudbogging etc?

 

I ride in mud quite often. That's pretty much why I pressure wash it after every ride. Is there a trick to burping the system?

 

Mud clogs these radiators in places you can’t easily wash and then they overheat all the time. I deal with this idea constantly with my buddy. He’ll go on and on about how well he washed it out (he doesn’t) and then acts all surprised when his is overheating. Splash through a few mud puddles on a hot day and guess what, overheating….

like I mentioned in your other thread. TCP is where it’s at.

 

Thanks, I'm definitely getting one, it's just hard for me to believe that the cooling system is so close to the edge that even the tiniest of blockage would affect it that much. From the youtube videos i have found, the TCP radiator can be blocked about 2/3's and still cool fine.

 

Look very close at the radiators cooling fins. Pressure washer easily bends them over slowing airflow rate. Been there done that. Also the lower 1/4 of the radiator gets clogged with mud and requires the front clip removed to clean well. Also cleaning from the backside works better than from the front . Cleaning from the front push's the mud deeper into the radiator and not all the way thru.

 

Never figured out why my R was running hot - COULDA had something to do with bumping it up to 195hp and loading it up to 3,300 pounds…

High performance C&R radiator brought it down a FEW degrees - like 220 instead of 225…

Motor rebuild didn’t affect it either.

What worked is an external oil cooler - at least it’s working SO far - doesn’t see 200 degrees very often anymore, so…


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Interesting!

 

anyone running the TCP Mudder Radiator or any feedback?

 

You overheating problems will pretty much be in the past. Best upgrade I did!

 

Hey boss what did you find out? I have this exact same issue, I have the TCP already installed and i dont do any mudding. The radiator has been clean multiple times and im losing my mind trying to figure this out. We've deleted the thermostat and it made no difference still the same issue, only cools down when i slow down to 25mph or if i stop and let it run.


Got an offroad race in 2 weeks and getting down to the wire here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 

Possible the water pump impeller is spinning on the shaft? Have you done a good job purging the air out of the system?

 

Possible the water pump impeller is spinning on the shaft? Have you done a good job purging the air out of the

Yeah I've heat cycled it plenty of times. Is that a thing? Has someone had that happen before where it spins on the shaft?

 

Water pump failures where the impeller spins on the shaft have been reported in the past. In diagnosing the issue there are 2 things you investigate. Airflow and water flow. If you have already replaced the radiator, coolant, and properly burped the system to purge air, and you are absolutely sure the fins are clear all the way through, you may have a water flow rate issue. Checking the pump impeller would be prudent at this point. Racers have all told me that an external oil cooler is needed for the RR models as the heat exchanger is inadequate and causes the high coolant temps. Installing a block off plate (commercially available) and mounting a thin external cooler in the back window area has been shown to lower those temps by an average of 30 degrees. You can contact Chris Blais at Blais racing for more information. I installed a fan override switch on my car and that helps in the summer months here in the desert, which is another option.

 

You running a tune? I've heard of guys running AA tunes on the 120HP models having issues with overheating driving down the road.

 

Nope, stock motor no tune, aftermarket slip on exhaust.

 

usually the water pump impeller would slip once pressure is built and higher at rpms.

 

That is my next adventure

 

why do you think it head gaskets? How does the bottle look? anything funky looking??

Is the car stock?

 

Stock car with slip on exhaust, coolant looks clean and nothing in the oil.

I'm just putting head gasket on the list of possibilities. I know its not the radiator, I've cleaned it so many times now, its not the hoses, I know the water pump is spinning at low rpms, I dont have any leaks that I can see. Only options left are water pump is slipping at speed, still air in the system (highly unlikely at this point) and head gasket.

 

To eliminate air as a possibility buy one of these... It's only $150, and you don't have to play airlock games or jack the machine up. Drain the fluid, Vacuum the system (which also verifies no leaks), suck the new coolant in, and you're done.
Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit

 

Some might not be running the thermostat but I would think that most of them are running a restrictor in place of the thermostat. This will slow the coolant down so it can properly exchange the heat out and away from the engine.

 

So this is the water pump housing....are those groves supposed to be there?

 

How does the impeller look? does it have play in it? any rub marks?

 

 

Ok so that is a yes... think you found your issue!

 

You think its the impeller or the gear behind it? Theres no real play in the impeller just a little back and forth like it was tryin to spin

 

Also how do i get the impeller off?

 

pull the cover, pull pin, pull impeller.

 

 

The impeller looks damaged from rubbing. I’m betting it is spinning on the shaft. Remove the shaft and impeller since it’s already junk. Clamp the shaft in a vise and try to turn the impeller. Either way you will need an impeller / shaft and a housing.

Remove the gears and check for broken or worn teeth. Replace as needed. This should solve your issue. When reinstalling, be sure to put the thermostat back.

 

The impeller looks damaged from rubbing. I’m betting it is spinning on the shaft. Remove the shaft and impeller since it’s already junk. Clamp the shaft in a vise and try to turn the impeller. Either way you will need an impeller / shaft and a housing.

So the whole housing needs to come off to do that? Oil cooler, ect...

 

I haven’t done one personally but that video should tell you. Sorry I can’t be more help.

 

Yeah im working on the housing now, i have a race next friday. I hope i can get it done

 

 

How long have you been running without a thermostat?

 

I haven't yet....I thought the thermostat was the problem

Looks like i found it

 

Glad you found it!

 

seal/bushing took a sh!t? or the impeller slipped forward about 1/2"?

 

Both unfortunately

 

Well you've done a good job of breaking her! Better now than on the race course!

 

Well new seal, new impeller and new water pump gasket, still over heating.....im.out of ideas

 

what did you figure out? did you check the water pump gears?