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ZRP Alternator kit, worth it? who has one?

20K views 58 replies 22 participants last post by  CanturboR 
#1 ·
I'm right at 41.4 amps of extra power needed to run all my goodies in my MEGAmax build. With OEM radiator fan, intercooler fan, fuel pump and engine electrical needs plus my extra 41 amp draw on the stock system I would not be putting anything back into the battery. Sure I could get by with a second battery and isolator but that second battery would not be down on power for the next night ride.

the stock stator is 625 watts at 6000 rpm,
44.6 amps at 14 volts
49.2 amps at 12.7 volts

what's the good bad and ugly about the Alternator kit? I already heard one second hand info that there was some issues, nothing specific though.
 
#12 ·
I'm right at 41.4 amps of extra power needed to run all my goodies in my MEGAmax build. With OEM radiator fan, intercooler fan, fuel pump and engine electrical needs plus my extra 41 amp draw on the stock system I would not be putting anything back into the battery. Sure I could get by with a second battery and isolator but that second battery would not be down on power for the next night ride.

the stock stator is 625 watts at 6000 rpm,
44.6 amps at 14 volts
49.2 amps at 12.7 volts

what's the good bad and ugly about the Alternator kit? I already heard one second hand info that there was some issues, nothing specific though.

We installed it about a 14 months ago. Perfect solution for a power hungry setup . No issues with the install or the alternator since. We had upgraded to dual battery, and added a LOT more accessories.
254802
 
#13 ·
Installed mine Nov 2019, I run dual batteries with high load lights, dual radiators/fans which draw the large amps, no longer have charge issues, works great. Only issue is a rattling noise coming from the pulley drive shaft slop in the belt side cover shaft bearing. Fixed most of the noise with high temp rtv on the shaft going into the belt cover bearing. ZRP recommends using green locktite ( loctite 648-21443 retaining compound) with a release agent on the bearing surface to resolve.
 
#18 ·
An alternator off driveshaft or cv joint cup might work but at slow speed you get noting and top end you might spin it too fast and create longevity issues.

Putting a windmill type device on roof would look stupid.

running something off exhaust gasses like a reverse turbo could be interesting, but unproven and would take lots of development.

Ok, ill bite and send a pm
 
#19 ·
An alternator off driveshaft or cv joint cup might work but at slow speed you get noting and top end you might spin it too fast and create longevity issues.

Putting a windmill type device on roof would look stupid.

running something off exhaust gasses like a reverse turbo could be interesting, but unproven and would take lots of development.

Ok, ill bite and send a pm
Be careful, when Megas says " I'll bite" it's not what you think.


I wonder how feasible and or difficult having the existing winding modified would be.

Tim
 
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#24 ·
I would be curious to see what the actual voltage output is at idle before the regulator.
Then see what the voltage output is at 3k, 5k, 8k. Just to see what it is putting out and regulated down to. I'm assuming the factory regulator is pmw (pulse width modulation). A pmw system basically doesn't use excess power. The voltage climbs up to say 50 volts at 8k rpm. The regulator only uses 14 volts.

A person could in theory design a system that would use a mppt (max power point tracking) system for regulation.
A mppt system would increase amperage output when the stator is producing excess voltage at higher rpms. The only limiting factor would be the size of the winding wire in the stator.

I haven't read a lot on mppt, so my understanding of that technology is very limited. If any of this is wrong, I don't mind be corrected. I'm not by my buggy right now. Otherwise I would try checking voltages for myself.
 
#25 ·
I would be curious to see what the actual voltage output is at idle before the regulator.
Then see what the voltage output is at 3k, 5k, 8k. Just to see what it is putting out and regulated down to. I'm assuming the factory regulator is pmw (pulse width modulation). A pmw system basically doesn't use excess power. The voltage climbs up to say 50 volts at 8k rpm. The regulator only uses 14 volts.

A person could in theory design a system that would use a mppt (max power point tracking) system for regulation.
A mppt system would increase amperage output when the stator is producing excess voltage at higher rpms. The only limiting factor would be the size of the winding wire in the stator.

I haven't read a lot on mppt, so my understanding of that technology is very limited. If any of this is wrong, I don't mind be corrected. I'm not by my buggy right now. Otherwise I would try checking voltages for myself.
From my understanding the stator has a maximum output of 42 amps before regulated? I may be incorrect.
 
#26 · (Edited)
More than likely the amperage output is regulated to "X" amount, due to wire size in the stator. Increasing the wire size in the stator would be the way to go, given that you end up with the same amount turns in your windings.

My initial thought with mppt was using excess voltage a high rpm to take advantage of it. After thinking about it, if it produces 625 watts at 6k the battle may not be worth it.

I'm game to bounce ideas around. I've never had the stock stator assembly apart. Don't know if there is enough room for a physically larger (thicker) stator ? If there was, it surely someone would have figured it out.

I apologize for the long winded posts. Sometimes I suffer from Dunning and Kruger and believe I am smarter than I think I am.
 
#54 ·
One solution would be to buy the Hydro Steering. Ross told me "You will gain 15-30 amps of charging with my hydro system because you wont have and EPS using that much".
 
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#32 ·
I'm thinking the ECU has nothing to do with the charging unless it quits working and shuts down on low or high voltage. The charging system use's a separate Voltage regulator. If you do manage to install a higher amperage Stator, a higher amperage regulator will be required to handle the load.
 
#33 ·
I'm thinking the ECU has nothing to do with the charging unless it quits working and shuts down on low or high voltage. The charging system use's a separate Voltage regulator. If you do manage to install a higher amperage Stator, a higher amperage regulator will be required to handle the load.
That’s makes sense I could have swore I read it took a new ecu but I do drink a lot and could have made that up on my head lol


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#38 ·

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