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I picked my XRS up last night and am heading out today to get some breakin miles on it.

Just curious as to what shock settings and tire pressure you guys are running for trail riding so I can get a baseline when head out. We trail ride and its mostly woods riding with some rocky areas mixed in. I am about 2 hours from Hatfield and McCoy and about 1.5 hours from Windrock and if you ride those areas then you know what kind of terrain we have here.


Thanks!!

Chris
 

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I like 8 lbs f/r for desert riding. I lowered mine an inch and a half, but where you are, you probably wouldn't want to do that. Set the rebound in the middle, and back both compressions out all the way.
 

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I forgot, in the rear, all the way out on the compressions. In the front, I run a little bit of compression, but I don't have my notes here.
 

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Front:
Low= 7
High= 2
Rebound= 6
Spring= 3" (approx 4 turns out)

Rear:
Low= 9
High= 1
Rebound= 9
Spring= 4.125" (approx 4 turns out)

I too ride in East TN and Hatfield (although the Mav hasn't been to either yet). Have put 100+ miles on some local trails in NC and SC. The setup above seems to work pretty well for me. I don't race it or drive on trails like I stole it...so it might be a little soft (bit more body roll) for some who like to ride faster through tighter trails. You will lose about 1/2" - 3/4" of ground clearance but it was worth it to get the suspension riding softer and not so "choppy".
 

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Blake is correct, but I assure you that you do not want to run your rebound clickers all the way out. More like all the way in. I'm currently working with FCR Suspension to dial in the Maverick XRS. We have to go inside the shock to add rebound because it is entirely to fast even turned all the way in. I don't know why Fox always has their rebound so fast.

Do you understand how all the clickers and adjustments work?
 

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Even if you run the rebound adjuster all the way in its not nearly enough rebound. Those shocks are only producing about 100lbs of rebound dampening which is next to nothing and a lot of the reason why guys are getting beat up in the rough stuff.
 

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The right thing to do is close the rebound off all the way, open the compression adjusters all the way and tighten the flat head high speed adjuster if you are bottoming out as needed. You want to bottom the shocks every now and again on real hard hits. This way you know you're using the full travel of the shocks. Before I tore my shocks down to revalve them I did exactly that and it was much better than the "factory" settings. If you still need it a little softer then back the preload adjuster off 1/8 at a time till you get what you're looking for. If you're still not happy with it then you need to call someone like me to get you fixed up. A revalve with machining the piston is $400
 

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Even if you run the rebound adjuster all the way in its not nearly enough rebound. Those shocks are only producing about 100lbs of rebound dampening which is next to nothing and a lot of the reason why guys are getting beat up in the rough stuff.
Exactly. Smart man. I wish I could post the video of me suspension testing the other day. Wild ride through the whoops. Shocks MUST be torn down and set up correctly by someone that knows what they're doing. www.fcrsuspension.com is who I am working with. Bob is the owner. He is making all kinds of trick "factory" parts to make these shocks awesome. Even if you don't want trick parts they NEED revalved. I suggest FCR and it sounds like AReed knows his stuff also.
 

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The right thing to do is close the rebound off all the way, open the compression adjusters all the way and tighten the flat head high speed adjuster if you are bottoming out as needed. You want to bottom the shocks every now and again on real hard hits. This way you know you're using the full travel of the shocks. Before I tore my shocks down to revalve them I did exactly that and it was much better than the "factory" settings. If you still need it a little softer then back the preload adjuster off 1/8 at a time till you get what you're looking for. If you're still not happy with it then you need to call someone like me to get you fixed up. A revalve with machining the piston is $400
To "close the rebound off all the way", is that turn the screw in all the way CW?
To "open the compression adjusters all the way", is that back the screws all the way out CCW on both high and low speed compression? The screws won't fall out will they?
$400 is for what? 1 shock, 2 shocks, 3 or all 4? Did you finish getting these dialed in for general trail riding or are you still working on that?
I almost bought the Fox shocks you had for sale from your Teryx and that guy that did get them sounds real happy with them and I know there were others on that Teryx forum who were happy with your work so I may be interested in having you work on mine some day when my wife gets over the sticker shock on the Maverick.
 

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Exactly. Smart man. I wish I could post the video of me suspension testing the other day. Wild ride through the whoops. Shocks MUST be torn down and set up correctly by someone that knows what they're doing. FCR Suspension | Performance and Suspension Center ? Where performance is our passion is who I am working with. Bob is the owner. He is making all kinds of trick "factory" parts to make these shocks awesome. Even if you don't want trick parts they NEED revalved. I suggest FCR and it sounds like AReed knows his stuff also.
Yes, as a supporting vendor of the site I offer a shock revalve package.
 

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To "close the rebound off all the way", is that turn the screw in all the way CW?
To "open the compression adjusters all the way", is that back the screws all the way out CCW on both high and low speed compression? The screws won't fall out will they?
$400 is for what? 1 shock, 2 shocks, 3 or all 4? Did you finish getting these dialed in for general trail riding or are you still working on that?
I almost bought the Fox shocks you had for sale from your Teryx and that guy that did get them sounds real happy with them and I know there were others on that Teryx forum who were happy with your work so I may be interested in having you work on mine some day when my wife gets over the sticker shock on the Maverick.
Correct, turn the rebound all the way in to close off the metering rod circuit, unscrew the compression adjusters all the way out, they will not fall out. Tighten compression as needed.
$400 is for 4 shocks. That includes machining the piston, a full valve change on compression and rebound and to install a schrader valve in place of the factory nitrogen fill. We are having some springs made right now to have a very effective dual rate system that will work in conjunction with our valving. This will offer the best of both worlds, soft ride through the chop and an additional 75 pounds in spring rate per shock on hard hits and hard corners. I'm unsure of the price of the springs right now but the whole package for valving and springs will be less than $1000.
 

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Just when I think I am convinced I dont need anything else for the Mav, something else pops up that I gotta have. The though of a smoother ride through chop and a heavier spring rate for the G outs in the dunes sounds like a great investment! This forum is bad for my wallet!
 

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Correct, turn the rebound all the way in to close off the metering rod circuit, unscrew the compression adjusters all the way out, they will not fall out. Tighten compression as needed.
$400 is for 4 shocks. That includes machining the piston, a full valve change on compression and rebound and to install a schrader valve in place of the factory nitrogen fill. We are having some springs made right now to have a very effective dual rate system that will work in conjunction with our valving. This will offer the best of both worlds, soft ride through the chop and an additional 75 pounds in spring rate per shock on hard hits and hard corners. I'm unsure of the price of the springs right now but the whole package for valving and springs will be less than $1000.
That sounds pretty good. With this set up will the damping circuits work correctly so that you can actually make adjustments on the clickers as they were meant to be used
 

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For the most part yes. Your compression adjusters will be useable like normal. The rebound will be able to be sped up but not slowed down due to me sending your shocks to you with the rebound adjuster locked out. If you go anymore than 12 clicks to speed up the rebound the compression adjusters going from wide open to all the way closed won't be able to get the compression back to the original settings. If you have me re do your shocks I suggest you don't touch the rebound and just dial in the compression.
 

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Just when I think I am convinced I dont need anything else for the Mav, something else pops up that I gotta have. The though of a smoother ride through chop and a heavier spring rate for the G outs in the dunes sounds like a great investment! This forum is bad for my wallet!
I agree..... damn love, hate relationship.
 

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Thanks Alex. I want to get the most out of the shocks the way they are for now. So far they haven't been too bad at stock settings and I can only imagine how awesome they would be once you re-work a set.
 

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You all are talking circles to me... I have the XRS and need to know how to set them with out spending more $$ on the system... Please...

I am reading to turn the rebound ( on the bottom of the shock)...
Then loosen the top compression screw all the way out then turn in the compression in till it suits your riding style... Right ????

help...
 
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