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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, newbie to the forum but not powersports!

I have a 2019 Can Am X3 turbo with tracks on it. I would run it wide open throttle across my lake and back (5 miles each way) and didn't have issues for several weeks of use this winter, the first winter I had tracks on it. After blowing apart a belt with 1,250 miles on it and taking along my entire CVT housing, I invested in a Razorback belt temp sensor and Evolution Powersports Bad Ass belt. On my first use, I noticed belts temps getting into the 300-350 degree range only 1/4 of the way across my first run on the lake, during temperatures in the teens. I had no previous experience with what my belt temps were before installation, I was just blissfully running it out until the incident. If I can't rip on the tracks, the entire track setup on the X3 is useless to me. I'm anxiously awaiting the new variable CVT cooling fan but Raorback doesn't have a date it will be out yet. Any comments, tips or tricks on acceptable belt temps and belt life running the EVO belt at those temps? Thanks for your input.
 

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I have no experience with tracks.

1250 miles is more than I let my belts get to. I change them at 1000.

I have never even heard of 350 degree belt temps, clearly no belt will survive at those temps.

I do feel an OEM belt is the best belt.

I know that running wide open has the highest belt temps. On a 70 degree day in the dunes down sand highway running W.O. we will hit a little over 200 degrees with no belt management.

Something must be wrong to hit 350 degrees In such low ambient temps. I find it hard to believe tracks would produce that much higher belt temps.

I think you may need to do some runs without the tracks to see if that is really what is making those temps.

Tim
 
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I've run these same tracks on my 2020 RR and never blew a belt in similar conditions. Maybe check to see if your air intake isn't plugging up with snow or something like that. Also, if you're blowing belts a lot quicker now.. makes sure there aren't any belt strands wrapped around your clutches causing issues that way as well.

Alignment is also super important and you want it as straight as possible! Otherwise you're putting extra stress on the driveline which will translate over to the belt. As mentioned, OEM belt is the best bet as aftermarket ones haven't been doing anything much for me.
 

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Welcome from NW Oregon!

These stock clutches are not consistent. I run dunes, yes the weight of the tires and my driving style is a bit hard, however I do watch the throttle and back off to try to keep it cool, but blowing a belt every 100-150 miles, two casings is absolutely ridiculous and it's in perfect alignment. Others I know get away with many more miles and ride no different.

I suspect improper engagement with belt slip. Right now I'm running a STM and the engagement is much better but haven't had the chance to put it to a full test with a hard ride out in the dunes. I'm about ready to send my stock clutch off to KWI for a full float and kit and see which I like better.
 

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I'm anxiously awaiting the new variable CVT cooling fan but Raorback doesn't have a date it will be out yet.
How would this work? Anyone have ideas or details?

Hasn't the stock clutch been said to move an enormous amount of air at RPM?

People were saying it moves far more air than any auxiliary electric fan could reasonably overcome without being comically large and power hungry? As well as impede the stock clutch fan if it were inline while not needed?
 

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belt temps are a problem on all the x3s
you are going to need some clutch work
and your going to need to learn belt temp management
the newer models have bigger cooling pipes/hoses
you may be ingesting a little snow dust causing some extra slip
the x3 was not designed as a snow machine
with the temp gauge you can learn what works and what does not help
no belt likes 300+
 
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How would this work? Anyone have ideas or details?

Hasn't the stock clutch been said to move an enormous amount of air at RPM?

People were saying it moves far more air than any auxiliary electric fan could reasonably overcome without being comically large and power hungry? As well as impede the stock clutch fan if it were inline while not needed?
Justin at Shock Therapy says exactly that.

An auxiliary fan will actually impede airflow and the stock setup is more than adequate. ST does run a fan on their racecars, but they run a 3rd additional separate tube specifically to run that cooling fan. And he does mention as well that it indeed takes a lot of electrical power.

ST says the only reason they have the fan is to help cool at very low speeds or pretty much stopped. At any kind of rpm or speed the extra fan is totally useless. And in fact makes things worse on a stock setup.

ST also runs stock belts on their racecars.

I'm not sure about aftermarket belts, if they are "over built" or not? Extra threads of Kevlar in them?

I remember someone asking an Ultimax engineer why not just add more threads in belts to make them stronger? Answer was the extra Kevlar would make belt temps skyrocket! As the belt flexes with all that extra weave it makes way more heat. Kind of like bending a piece of plastic back and forth with your hands making it get hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welcome from NW Oregon!

These stock clutches are not consistent. I run dunes, yes the weight of the tires and my driving style is a bit hard, however I do watch the throttle and back off to try to keep it cool, but blowing a belt every 100-150 miles, two casings is absolutely ridiculous and it's in perfect alignment. Others I know get away with many more miles and ride no different.

I suspect improper engagement with belt slip. Right now I'm running a STM and the engagement is much better but haven't had the chance to put it to a full test with a hard ride out in the dunes. I'm about ready to send my stock clutch off to KWI for a full float and kit and see which I like better.
I did find KWI and their float mod online. I think I'm going to send them in for machining after winter, before the trails open back up in spring and see what happens. Others have suggested the dealer located the sensor incorrectly,band that it is reading the clutches and not the belt. Thanks for your input, gets a bit frustrating when you can't use a high performance machine for its intended purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
belt temps are a problem on all the x3s
you are going to need some clutch work
and your going to need to learn belt temp management
the newer models have bigger cooling pipes/hoses
you may be ingesting a little snow dust causing some extra slip
the x3 was not designed as a snow machine
with the temp gauge you can learn what works and what does not help
no belt likes 300+
If the intake was blocked, wouldn't I see elevated engine temps too aside from elevated belt temps? I run a particle separator which should help keep the snow out of the intake but maybe there is a buildup that needs clearing.. Learning lots of possibilities from people in this forum and one I'm in on Facebook. Incorrect sensor position, blocked intake and improper clutch alignment seem to be repeated multiple times, especially clutching. Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Justin at Shock Therapy says exactly that.

An auxiliary fan will actually impede airflow and the stock setup is more than adequate. ST does run a fan on their racecars, but they run a 3rd additional separate tube specifically to run that cooling fan. And he does mention as well that it indeed takes a lot of electrical power.

ST says the only reason they have the fan is to help cool at very low speeds or pretty much stopped. At any kind of rpm or speed the extra fan is totally useless. And in fact makes things worse on a stock setup.

ST also runs stock belts on their racecars.

I'm not sure about aftermarket belts, if they are "over built" or not? Extra threads of Kevlar in them?

I remember someone asking an Ultimax engineer why not just add more threads in belts to make them stronger? Answer was the extra Kevlar would make belt temps skyrocket! As the belt flexes with all that extra weave it makes way more heat. Kind of like bending a piece of plastic back and forth with your hands making it get hot.
Interesting information, thanks for taking the time to share.
 

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Wow the uneducated info int his thread kills me!!!

first off, most tracks are portal driven which ends up gearing them down and you need high engine rpms to get to fast speeds. This right off should tell you that you need proper clutch I g for your specific unique situation. And if your shitty dealer didn’t tell you this well shame on you for not educating yourself.

Next, if you bought a high performance vehicle and immediately put 1200#’s of tracks on it then complain about the lack of performance. Shame on you again for not being an educated consumer. The Canam x3 is the corvette of Offroad machines. It’s built low and sporty with NO utility to carry your fat girlfriends snack bucket and cooler full of White Claws.

now for the education on the clutches. You bought a machine with a CVT clutch. This clutch works off pinch force on the belt to move the car. Pinching the belt creates heat. And if those sheaves(pulleys) are not in alignment they create more heat. Now are your clutches in alignment? Do you NEED the float mod? Wasted money if your shit is aligned and you only need clutch springs, arms and helix. Search around and you will find out how to see if your clutches are aligned. Also search and you will find out how to clutch your car or at least tell the clutch tuner what your car is doing now so he can tune it to what you need. Just throwing a generic clutch kit at it is useless if you don’t know where your were at and where you want to be.

educate your self with the search function!

MEGADESERTDIESEL rant over.
 

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Wow the uneducated info int his thread kills me!!!

first off, most tracks are portal driven which ends up gearing them down and you need high engine rpms to get to fast speeds. This right off should tell you that you need proper clutch I g for your specific unique situation. And if your shitty dealer didn’t tell you this well shame on you for not educating yourself.

Next, if you bought a high performance vehicle and immediately put 1200#’s of tracks on it then complain about the lack of performance. Shame on you again for not being an educated consumer. The Canam x3 is the corvette of Offroad machines. It’s built low and sporty with NO utility to carry your fat girlfriends snack bucket and cooler full of White Claws.

now for the education on the clutches. You bought a machine with a CVT clutch. This clutch works off pinch force on the belt to move the car. Pinching the belt creates heat. And if those sheaves(pulleys) are not in alignment they create more heat. Now are your clutches in alignment? Do you NEED the float mod? Wasted money if your shit is aligned and you only need clutch springs, arms and helix. Search around and you will find out how to see if your clutches are aligned. Also search and you will find out how to clutch your car or at least tell the clutch tuner what your car is doing now so he can tune it to what you need. Just throwing a generic clutch kit at it is useless if you don’t know where your were at and where you want to be.

educate your self with the search function!

MEGADESERTDIESEL rant over.
 

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Not sure what I did to quote Mega. Wasn't my intention. Just curious why did you go with the 360 and not the backcountry tracks? Do you have a lot of hardpack you travel on or do you use them year round? I have the backcountry tracks on my buggy and they are incredible. They do gear you down, but thats the life of tracks. Ive had tracks on Polaris Ranger and honestly, they sucked. these are much better but you need plenty of snow much like a snowmachine
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One of my questions is with alignment, and no need to the full float if they are aligned (when engines off or not engaged)...
Do they actually stay in true alignment when the sheaves are moving in and out during engagement/shift out during different RPM's?

What if one side of the primary moves more in one direction while the secondary does the same in the opposing direction?

@Megadesertdiesel
 

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One of my questions is with alignment, and no need to the full float if they are aligned (when engines off or not engaged)...
Do they actually stay in true alignment when the sheaves are moving in and out during engagement/shift out during different RPM's?

What if one side of the primary moves more in one direction while the secondary does the same in the opposing direction?

@Megadesertdiesel
At that point I think you are splitting hairs and worrying about weather the factory parts works they way they were designed to

at rest with motor off you want the belt in the dead center of the primary and can measure this with feeler gauges at the 9:00 position looking at the primary. (Easier to be done without a rear clutch housing on).

Now if you are concerned about crank and trans input are aligned and they don’t flex inward. I hear KWI has a dogbone brace coming out that eliminates any flex.

at the end of the day we are not working with a Swiss watch. We have a rubber belt and cast aluminum parts made in China, assembled in Mexico for the Kanadians sold to us Americans.
 
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