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Discussion Starter · #961 · (Edited)
To make this easy for the masses, let’s forget about using the fancy terms and names! ( sag, static) These names and terms really tend to confuse most people.

To start, All we want is the car to sit at a hieght that will give the driver/rider the most benefits from the suspension movement in “both” directions. Raising the car height and extending the shocks allows the suspension to start its movements from a “softer” position within the shocks. And because the shocks will now have more compression travel (movement), softer compression settings can be used as the shocks will have much more travel “movement” to do their job.

The springs are what holds up the car. The heavier the car, the further the spring collars must be turned downward to Raise the car. More cargo? Turn the collars downward even further to set the car at the intended hieght desired with people and cargo. Simple as that! Just depends on what numbers The owner/driver wants to use. Everyone has an opinion on these numbers.

But with the added hieght, the correct/ safe compression and rebound and crossover settings must be used to keep the car “balanced” front to rear. This is also to realize and more fully use all the suspension travel the car has to offer.

As you raise the car, the car will have a taller center of gravity, and have a narrower stance. Shock settings are more critical now to safe and fun handling of the car!
The car was set at a lower ride hieght from the factory as a safety and liability measure! It’s up to the owner/driver to understand the new changes made to the car and drive accordingly.

As far as somone saying your going to far on the spring collar adjustments?? Ask them to explain what’s going to happen??? You have plenty of room for spring collar adjustments to get the car set to a reasonable, usable ride hieght.

To get to your desired heights, The top rear “helper” spring will probably be nearly full compressed, that’s fine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #962 ·
SDR Motorsports has developed these new x3, 72inch stock replacement front and rear Boxed arms! I’m beating up on them the next few weeks! Shoot them a call for more info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #964 · (Edited)
Also!! We have added a new product!! We now will be an exclusive UTV dealer for “Swift” springs. These are a quality race application spring that also comes with a very desirable “Black” coating! I’m out running these babies through the UTV paces and we can see how these perform after some miles and time!
 

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Also!! We have added a new product!! We now will be an exclusive UTV dealer for “Swift” springs. These are a quality race application spring that also comes with a very desirable “Black” coating! I’m out running these babies through the UTV paces and we can see how these perform after some miles and time!
Black springs sure look sharp!
 

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Cool new stuff!
King Shocks X3 rear swaybar shock links. King has started to manufacture this product in preparation for retail sale very soon.
I will test these out this weekend!!
I guess they couldn't stand WE getting all the money, LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #971 ·
To any one interested, plan is be in Johnson Valley, Means Dry Lake next weekend, March 22,23, fine tuning cars, and a little testing, mostly x3stuff! 4 and 2 seaters with Kings, Walker Evans, and Foxes. Good chance for people that Don’t know how good your car can be, To come out and FEEL and compare. Real time experience rules .
All are welcome, just bring a smile!
Shoot me a Text for more info,

moto
 

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Looks like a fun day. I for sure want to go out when you do it again.

I was busy testing your tune this weekend. Clocked over 300 miles between Barstow to Stateline. Then a day ripping around the NV desert and part of the Mint 400 course, then the following date back to Barstow. Some fast stuff, chatter bumps galore, sandy washes, rocks and rough stuff. Car soaked it all up without a hick up. Actually did not touch anything on shocks from my sand set up and it worked awesome in the dirt.
 
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Discussion Starter · #974 ·
I know I say it a lot, But the best way to Pick what suspension works best for each individual, is to get out and drive in and compare, compare, compare. This way, a driver can FEEL what works best, feel the depth of plush to firm and bottom out resistance and have the most room for adjustments to terrain, passengers, and cargo changes.

Drivers can ONLY know what they have driven or experienced. And cant know what they have never driven or experienced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #975 ·
Oh!!
more news!!

i was able to do some testing with a 64 in, x3 base model Fox Qrs dial comp adjuster shocks!
All I can say is This set up ended up better than I expected!! New springs, my internal valving and other tricks.
Was able to fly through the whoops and desert smooth and FAST and eat up all the rough! And all on the softest dial setting. This leaves the firmer 2 settings for heavier car loads and fast dune running !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #976 ·
Oh!!
more news!!

i was able to do some testing with a 64 in, x3 base model Fox Qrs dial comp adjuster shocks!
All I can say is This set up ended up better than I expected!! New springs, my internal valving and other tricks.
Was able to fly through the whoops and desert smooth and FAST and eat up all the rough! And all on the softest dial setting. This leaves the firmer 2 settings for heavier car loads and fast dune running !!
and yes, the “dial compression adjuster” and “BOC” are a must modify on these shocks to let them flow correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #980 · (Edited)
Sway bar links??
Front and or rear?


If higher rate front springs are used, coupled with a valve job that works with the firmer springs, than most of the time a front swaybar is not needed for recreational use. That means a driver can rip the dunes, run the Dez and rock crawl with plenty of articulation. Plusher for the rough and firmer for aggressive driving.

Most of the stock set up cars are UNDER SPRUNG in the front. This means the spring rates are on the weak side to do the job. They can’t push the car up fast enough after being compressed so the car tends to dive badly when on the breaks or jumping or going of drop offs. To compensate, the rebound adjustments need to be turned extremely open. But it’s not quite enough. With weak front springs, that give the car more front body roll, the swaybar is a crutch to help out the lagging stock springs.

The stock rear swaybar links are mounted with rubber bushings. These give a small amount of cushioning to swaybar engagement. Most aftermarket HARD links do not incorporate a rubber or other dampening device. Result is no dampening to the sway bar to car at all. Result is harsher ride in the rough.
The swaybar shock links dampen the rough engagement of the swaybar and lessen this harshness from being transferred to the car and your seat. With smoother engagement, the car is allowed to set up more nicely in all terrains. The car has much less upset especially during turns with any bumps, rocks, holes or curbs. Car stays more controllable and steady.
 
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