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Boomer, I'm trying different shock settings to make my XRS better. Can you clarify if your settings in post #358 are from fully closed clockwise or from fully open counterclockwise? Thanks
To the hard clockwise
To the soft counterclockwise

Hints:
You dont need body roll at front
You need some body roll at rear

Tender spring works with slow speed adjust
Main spring works with fast speed adjust

At front you need faster rebound
At rear you need slower rebound.

Cross over is respons for how much compression need to be on tender spring . Or by other meaning what is the length that you want the tender spring to work.

Is it clear ?
 

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Discussion Starter #405 (Edited)
What affect does increasing the PSI have
hello, this is Ed, "pound sand"
"basically speaking" added more nitrogen pressure will do two things, it will make the car firmer throughout the shock stroke. And I think the majority of us would prefer a little more plushness than firmness. So that's out! Unless of course you desire more firmness ?? Then Pump it up!

And It also will increase the rebound speed of the shock. So the shock will extend out faster. Faster is not better if we don't need it? There is plenty of rebound shock speed without adding more pressure to the shock.

And im going to make an educated guess that BRP or Fox took nitrogen pressure out of these shocks in an attempt to soften the ride after realizing how harsh the car ride was with the valving and spring choices made. Fox would normally run those shocks at 150 to 225 psi. I'm finding that these shocks are coming set at between 90 and 110 psi. This is already at the minimum you should run.

With my Revalve, I'm running more in the range of 140 to 160 psi.

But remember! Everything we are doing right now is addapting to the "stock valving" best we can to get what's desired most out of the car.
 

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I ran out of rebound, so my next step was to bump up the pressure. Sounds like it's a good idea....
 

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Discussion Starter #407
I ran out of rebound, so my next step was to bump up the pressure. Sounds like it's a good idea....
Yes, if you want faster rebound? Bump up the pressure till you get the desired effect.

I know you know this, but for everyone else,

Those reservoir end caps come off pretty easy. Release the pressure with a needle, then the cap can push inward about a 1/8 inch. Just enough to pull the wire c-clip out. Then the cap can be removed. Drill out the center and tap in a schreader valve ! Then you can more easily manage your nitrogen pressure.
 

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Those reservoir end caps come off pretty easy. Release the pressure with a needle, then the cap can push inward about a 1/8 inch. Just enough to pull the wire c-clip out. Then the cap can be removed. Drill out the center and tap in a schreader valve ! Then you can more easily manage your nitrogen pressure.
Good suggestion for the DIY guys. They will need a proper nitrogen fill valve for accuracy.
 

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With my Revalve, I'm running more in the range of 140 to 160 psi.
This is a good range. If nitrogen pressure is too low, it will cause cavitation, which is highly undesirable.
 

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Cross over is respons for how much compression need to be on tender spring . Or by other meaning what is the length that you want the tender spring to work.
Is it clear ?
Mr. Boomer11, most people in the off road world describe the bottom spring as the primary spring, the spring above it is the secondary spring, and the little spring at the top is the tender spring.

Tender springs have very low spring rates and they do almost nothing. Their main purpose is to take up the slack so the primary and secondary springs are not loose at full extension.
 

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I am at 25 3/4" installed in rear. Cross over at 4 1/2" . We ride a lot of forest service road with some rocky trail inbetween. I like the ride but my only complaint is going into a steep up hill from flat at speed the rear is bottoming out. I would just like to have more btm resistance. Both my settings are full soft. Thanks pound sand!!
 

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Discussion Starter #412
I am at 25 3/4" installed in rear. Cross over at 4 1/2" . We ride a lot of forest service road with some rocky trail inbetween. I like the ride but my only complaint is going into a steep up hill from flat at speed the rear is bottoming out. I would just like to have more btm resistance. Both my settings are full soft. Thanks pound sand!!
start turning the "low speed" adjuster, flat head screwdriver rear adjuster firmer, clockwise a few turns at a time, and go ride. This adjustment will help with bottom out resistance and less effect the over all ride over the little rough stuff.
 

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I am at 25 3/4" installed in rear. Cross over at 4 1/2" . We ride a lot of forest service road with some rocky trail inbetween. I like the ride but my only complaint is going into a steep up hill from flat at speed the rear is bottoming out. I would just like to have more btm resistance. Both my settings are full soft. Thanks pound sand!!
Did you take your measurements according to this chart? Can you tell me what your rear ride height is with no driver?

IMG_0903.JPG
 

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My measurements are like the chart. Of from manual I am 6 3/4" down. I just readjusted for sag but should come back to about 15 3/4"
 

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My measurements are like the chart. Of from manual I am 6 3/4" down. I just readjusted for sag but should come back to about 15 3/4"
Thanks. Need to find time to tighten up my rear more. So far I adjusted the rear to match the chart. It has sagged since and I want shorten the 'overall spring length' again. Looks like I have up to 5" more to work with.
 

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New king shocks for the x3DS !
working on these, the x3RS fitment is different but almost ready
then tuning.
yum!!
Just how different are the rc2 shocks from the bypass shocks that come on the XRS as far as dimensions? Would it be possible to run xrs long travel on an XDS or is the shock length different?
 
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