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Mega , when your engine is running does the side of the belt touch either shiv face in the primary . The stationary shiv side should have about 10 thou between it and the belt . The belt should only be contacting the 2-way bearing . If the belt is touching the clutch face you will get your unwanted secondary spin .
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Mega , when your engine is running does the side of the belt touch either shiv face in the primary . The stationary shiv side should have about 10 thou between it and the belt . The belt should only be contacting the 2-way bearing . If the belt is touching the clutch face you will get your unwanted secondary spin .
I’ll measure it tonight. My thought is the fiber washers are smashed too much and the belt is not riding on the 2way bearing.
 

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I had this on my gen1 Maverick but it was after about 3,000 miles. I found that the primary spring had gotten weaker and would no longer push the shivs all the way apart at idle. Causing it to pull the secondary and make shifting difficult. I wouldn’t expect that to be the case here, but maybe it could be a bad spring?


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Or something caught in the spring?
I think it has to do something with the belt break, timing is too suspect to think otherwise.
 

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I have only had my X3 for about 6 months and I am new to CVT transmissions. For a great explanation check out this video.
Only click if you need a better explanation and visual like me!

 
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Discussion Starter #27
Mega , did you figure out your clutch problems ?


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Sheet, i forgot about this post.

Yes, last weekend i replaced both fiber washers (shims) on either side of the two way bearing and the issue went away. I did only drive it about 4 miles on the street to Autozone. Ill try it out in Glamis in a couple weeks. One of the washers had a slight groove in it where it was smashed a little.
 

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Where did you get your washers? Rmatv?


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Sheet, i forgot about this post.

Yes, last weekend i replaced both fiber washers (shims) on either side of the two way bearing and the issue went away. I did only drive it about 4 miles on the street to Autozone. Ill try it out in Glamis in a couple weeks. One of the washers had a slight groove in it where it was smashed a little.

Photos? I am a visual person! lol
 

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Ok, so digging up an old post here....I just installed a KWI kit 4 gen 2 weights and 2 gen 4 weights with a blue/orange spring and 3 new buttons/o-rings/fiber washers with greasing the bearing and everything seemed to go together just fine. I also put a blue spring in the secondary located on hole #2 and 80 degrees spun into it. Brand new WBB belt and it’s spinning the secondary in Park. Didn’t do it at first but after about 10 miles it’s doing it pretty good. What are the possibles? I checked for free play in the bearing before installing and it had some wiggle like the videos show. Never blown a belt, everything was fine before so something happened....I’ll check for belt to fixed Sheeve clearance tomorrow and any broken rollers, that’s the only two things I can think to check. Any ideas? Thanks
 

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primary belt clearance is too tight
same a the belt too tight
the qrs needs a belt adjuster like brp uses on sleds
 
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I don't know if you are trying to help or trying to make fun of me...anyway you failed either one.
I'm familiar wit the function of a CVT for almost 60 years and what everyone is calling clutches are not clutches but variable diameter pulleys.
On the particular CVT used here power transmission is started by the initial clamping of the primary drive pulley; automotive CVTs have the belt engages at all times and lately use push instead of pull belts.
My question was on how high, low, neutral and revers was handled, and on which end of the CVT it is located?

Thanks.
The gears are in the transmission the secondary is attached to the input shaft on the transmission ,the primary is attached to the engine crankshaft or out put shaft if you want to call it that if the belt is trying to spin while the car is sitting still it puts pressure on the trans input shaft and makes for hard shifting into high/low and can bend the shift forks , hope this helps
 

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One thing to check is belt alignment to make sure the belt isn’t rubbing the primary sheaves at idle. If the belt rubs either side of the primary it will cause the secondary to spin also making it difficult to shift. This KWI video shows how to check it and what to look for unfortunately to my knowledge the KWI float mod is the best way to keep this correct.
 

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First off, now that we can pin threads, can this one get a sticky if for no other reason that showing how a CVT works, especially shift out...which was a mystery to me until watching the video. As to the recent question, I serviced my clutches a couple of months ago but didn't have the magic isoflex grease on hand. Following reassembly, I had the clutch drag and hard shifting in and out of gear as described. After getting the right grease and learning my lesson, I cleaned and re-lubed the bearing as penance...back to normal operations Not sure if it was extra drag on the bearing or what, but the isoflex fixed it right up.

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Glad this issue was brought back up. I'm having the same issue with the secondary spinning while in park (approx. 900 miles on the car). Just ordered the KWI service kit to replace thrust washers, O-rings, buttons and lube. Also going to install the Dynojet clutch kit while everything is apart. I hope it does the trick.
 

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So everything looks good on mine but yet it keeps spinning after the clutches get hot. I tried taking pics to check belt to fixed sheave clearance but i dont get a warm fuzzy about it because i cant measure it and the pics are a little hard to decipher. If my clutches are out of alignment, how do I go about getting them back in line....remember they were fine before I did the 500 mile service kit and clutch kit.
 

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so if the belt is spinning at idle there are a few things that cause it
but they are all because the belt is too tight
so how can the belt be too tight?
first primary shim...if the primary is not simmed correctly (correct spacers)
there are specs for belt clearance in the manual
you use feeler gauge when motor is off
the belt will grab the shieves and not spin on the bearing
causes can be wrong parts in primary like using different year clutch parts
or as simple as a broken spring or other parts not letting clutch open all the way
then the secondary also could not be opening far enough
caused by broken parts in the secondary
last wrong belt width or wrong belt also cause problems
 

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so if the belt is spinning at idle there are a few things that cause it
but they are all because the belt is too tight
so how can the belt be too tight?
first primary shim...if the primary is not simmed correctly (correct spacers)
there are specs for belt clearance in the manual
you use feeler gauge when motor is off
the belt will grab the shieves and not spin on the bearing
causes can be wrong parts in primary like using different year clutch parts
or as simple as a broken spring or other parts not letting clutch open all the way
then the secondary also could not be opening far enough
caused by broken parts in the secondary
last wrong belt width or wrong belt also cause problems

Thanks, looks like I'll have to take everything apart and mic the old washers and compare. Is it possible that something couldnt be seated correctly? spring cup or something? Maybe lost a washer on the secondary that I'm not aware of?
 
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