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I'm in the process of installing a KWI X155 clutch kit into my X3. Based on my setup and the clutch tuning chart I am following the instructions listed on the last line of the chart. It shows 17.5-18.5 PSI 93 Octane - dune / large mud tires - 2 GEN2, 2 GEN4, 2 Stock TR - Position 4, 90 degree wrap - Blue/Orange Primary spring, Blue Secondary spring - 7700 to 7850 RPM range.

My setup is 2017 Can Am X3 XRS, 2019 fuel pump, 2019 intercooler fan, Whalen WS170 93 Octane, 32" STI Comp X tires, trail and open field riding.

Everything went as expected except for the secondary. I am really struggling to get the helix to spin 90 degrees. I've had multiple people hold the components while I spin them but the spring keeps popping out of the hole after I spin the helix. I've cranked the helix down using the KWI clutch tool so that the rollers are just above the helix legs. It almost appears that there is a mistake in the instructions saying to use position #4. Has anyone else had this issue or have any advice from their past experience?

IMG_2291.jpg

Thanks
Jim
 

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I had the same dilemma this past weekend with the same kit except 91 octane. I just clocked it to the first ramp it lined up with. I haven't driven it yet, but I suspect it will be OK. I got everything from Whalen and in the past they have been good about answering the phone or emails.
 

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I did install it just over the first ramp but the RPMs were way off. 90 degrees is a long distance! I marked 90 degrees on the sheave to keep track of my amount of turn. If you do that from the point where the spring is at rest, the 90-degree mark actually lands right in the middle of the next helix leg. It should be just past it so that it can ride on the ramp as it engages. Something just doesn't make sense. I've had my clutch apart many times and feel very comfortable with teardown and reassembly. I will keep you posted after I hear back from Kris at KWI. I sent him my question earlier today.
 

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I did install it just over the first ramp but the RPMs were way off. 90 degrees is a long distance! I marked 90 degrees on the sheave to keep track of my amount of turn. If you do that from the point where the spring is at rest, the 90-degree mark actually lands right in the middle of the next helix leg. It should be just past it so that it can ride on the ramp as it engages. Something just doesn't make sense. I've had my clutch apart many times and feel very comfortable with teardown and reassembly. I will keep you posted after I hear back from Kris at KWI. I sent him my question earlier today.
What were your RPM's before and after the changes?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Below is the response I received from KWI. It looks like they changed their instructions with updated settings. Maybe the spring changed. I am on travel this week but will try this setup when I get home. I'm pretty confident that this will work but did not want to just try a bunch of different settings without first hearing back from KWI. I probably would have damaged the helix or rollers if I would have continued to try hole # 4 with 90 degrees of twist.

DEZPERADO - I'm curious to know if this setting works best for you too.

RESPONSE FROM KWI
One of the spring tangs is slightly longer than the other, put the longest one in the secondary sheave (plastic support). Then put the spring in position #6 with only 70 degrees wrap (updated setting) and compress the helix to just where the legs clear the rollers ( careful not to nick the rollers)it will go much easier.
 

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DEZPERADO - I'm curious to know if this setting works best for you too.

RESPONSE FROM KWI
One of the spring tangs is slightly longer than the other, put the longest one in the secondary sheave (plastic support). Then put the spring in position #6 with only 70 degrees wrap (updated setting) and compress the helix to just where the legs clear the rollers ( careful not to nick the rollers)it will go much easier.
Thanks for the info. I'll try it in the next few days and see how it lines up.
 

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I'm in the process of installing a KWI X155 clutch kit into my X3.
Everything went as expected except for the secondary. I am really struggling to get the helix to spin 90 degrees. I've had multiple people hold the components while I spin them but the spring keeps popping out of the hole after I spin the helix. I've cranked the helix down using the KWI clutch tool so that the rollers are just above the helix legs. It almost appears that there is a mistake in the instructions saying to use position #4. Has anyone else had this issue or have any advice from their past experience?
Thanks
Jim
I also struggled to twist to 90*. I tried #6 hole and 70* and still struggled. I called KWI and Chris said hole #4 and 90* twist. He talked to his tech, and never heard of #6 and 70*. I verified that would be 1/4 the way around... Yep, 90*. He did offer to do it for me if I paid shipping both ways. He's searching for a local (to me) dealer that could do it and will call back.
 

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Yes, one of the spring tang is "slightly" longer, but not by very much.
 

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Are doing it like he shows in his video?
Yes, but the video shows one person twisting without much effort to get past the first leg of the helix. Not a full 90*.
 

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Are doing it like he shows in his video?
I just watched the video again. It must be updated from the one I originally watched. This one says hole #6 and twist 70*, but he turns to align the first helix leg. I'll try it again and see what happens.
 

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I also struggled to twist to 90*. I tried #6 hole and 70* and still struggled. I called KWI and Chris said hole #4 and 90* twist. He talked to his tech, and never heard of #6 and 70*. I verified that would be 1/4 the way around...
I tried again and found a few things different from the video.
First, when I start the assembly, I noticed my spring height didn't have any space between the helix legs and the sheaves/rollers. The video showed about 1/2in space.
Second, when I put a bar thru the helix, tightened the nut to compress the spring, the helix, because of the bar, would twist up some and not allow it to slide into the center shaft.

I may have to ship it before I break it.
 

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Below is the response I received from KWI. It looks like they changed their instructions with updated settings. Maybe the spring changed. I am on travel this week but will try this setup when I get home. I'm pretty confident that this will work but did not want to just try a bunch of different settings without first hearing back from KWI. I probably would have damaged the helix or rollers if I would have continued to try hole # 4 with 90 degrees of twist.

DEZPERADO - I'm curious to know if this setting works best for you too.

RESPONSE FROM KWI
One of the spring tangs is slightly longer than the other, put the longest one in the secondary sheave (plastic support). Then put the spring in position #6 with only 70 degrees wrap (updated setting) and compress the helix to just where the legs clear the rollers ( careful not to nick the rollers)it will go much easier.
I got my secondary together with only a nick of skin on my middle finger. Here's what I found/did.

Yes, one spring tang is slightly longer, about 1/16in.

My instructions say for 13.5 PSI, hole 6, 70* wrap. Then below it says, 13 - 15.5 PSI, hole 4, 90* wrap. The first 13.5PSI is included in the 13 - 15.5 PSI. The distance between hole 4 and 6 is the same as the distance from 70* to 90*. It still hits the helix on the same legs. The main difference is the spring tension between hole 4 and 6. Don't be concerned with 70* or 90*, just twist approximately 1/4 turn till the helix legs clears the rollers.

The bar I was using to hold the helix was 1/4in x 1in x 20in tire iron. When compressing the spring, the bar didn't fit between the spring coils and was kicking the helix out of alignment. A 1/4in screwdriver cured that.

Lastly, I had a old clutch tool from a Grizzly or something. I modified it (light grinding) to fit two of the fins on the sheave. That worked great but I was worried it would slip.

All together now except I couldn't find my blue Loctite so I used green.

I'm in hole 6 so we'll see how it works, but I think I should be in hole 4 for the Whalen 170 tune.

THANKS everyone.
252399
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I followed KWI's updated instructions using hole #6 and rotating it 70 degrees. It was not easy but it seated fine. I would recommend getting a second set of hands. After reinstalling the secondary, I tested the RPM's using my DynoJet and the RPM's came in at 7810 pushing full throttle from 10 to 60 mph. Tune and clutching feel great. On a separate note, the crack pressure for the Whalen WS170 should be 9lbs. For some reason, that info was no longer on Whalen's website but when you load Whalens WS170 file then click vehicle information it provides the recommended crack pressure setting. I appreciate everyone's responses.
 

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I took my secondary apart again and put the spring in hole #4 and 90* twist. It won't be till May when I can test it.

Yeah, he doesn't advertise the crack pressure anymore, but I already adjusted mine to 9lbs.
 
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