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Discussion Starter · #1,601 ·
The original thread title couldn't be anymore true today. The bolt ons keep making the build wilder... I honestly wouldn't buy a single component you've put on your vehicle after following this thread. It does show the haphazard engineer that goes into a lot of aftermarket parts and their marketing. I am happy to see that you're very honest about all the additional work needed once you rabbit hole yourself into a build with the aftermarket marketed parts and videos
Yes when you get past the simple add ons and start putting on major drivetrain add ons you definitely will need to change up other components to get it all fine tuned. Real world driving conditions always finds the things you have over looked or thought was good enough. I understand what Speed is going threw on their build while out doing real world testing as they are finding weak links that they have to improve before it's sent out to the public. Speed should let me drive one of their test cars for just a weekend and they will have a list of stuff that needs improved.
 
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Yes when you get past the simple add ons and start putting on major drivetrain add ons you definitely will need to change up other components to get it all fine tuned. Real world driving conditions always finds the things you have over looked or thought was good enough. I understand what Speed is going threw on their build while out doing real world testing as they are finding weak links that they have to improve before it's sent out to the public. Speed should let me drive one of their test cars for just a weekend and they will have a list of stuff that needs improved.
Your first 2 statements couldn't be any more true-that! That is exactly what Hotrodders and Racing teams have, and had done, before most of us were born.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,603 ·

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Parking Brake
I saw one of our vendors post a parking brake for the X3 model. I have been thinking something like that would be great to have before I saw the post so it made the purchase easy to do. Little more weight for a good cause. lol
UTV INC | Parts, Accessories, and Custom Built UTVs | SXS - Side By Side UTV INC CAN AM MAVERICK X3 FOOT ACTIVATED PARKING BRAKE UTV INC | Parts, Accessories, and Custom Built UTVs | SXS - Side By Side
I have that. It relies on your break pressure/pads. It doesn’t hold it pegged to the floor. It holds it enough for small grades. I had mine start rolling down a cinder bowl when I didn’t put it in P with the brake on. So it won’t solve the ‘put on the brake, get out check your line’ problem. I caution you to remember to put it in P. It is easier to get it back out of P on a hill though. And I’ve to have to help lock it on the trailer. Again still has to go in park. I tried it once in N with the brake on and it was rolling around the trailer within a 1/4 mile of washboard road.


3 of us running after it down this hill. Woulda been easier if the doors opened the other way…

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Discussion Starter · #1,605 ·
I have that. It relies on your break pressure/pads. It doesn’t hold it pegged to the floor. It holds it enough for small grades. I had mine start rolling down a cinder bowl when I didn’t put it in P with the brake on. So it won’t solve the ‘put on the brake, get out check your line’ problem. I caution you to remember to put it in P. It is easier to get it back out of P on a hill though. And I’ve to have to help lock it on the trailer. Again still has to go in park. I tried it once in N with the brake on and it was rolling around the trailer within a 1/4 mile of washboard road.


3 of us running after it down this hill. Woulda been easier if the doors opened the other way…

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes I agree with you on always putting it in park, and if on a slope put a rock in front of the tires if one is available. I usually stay in it to hold the brakes while in park on a rough trail when I have spotters so it don't bind the park. If this can help on the binding that's great. I will probably add a mechanical park break to rear rotors as a back up for if a brake line ever breaks. The rocks I plan to be climbing I will need to get out sometimes where me having to hold the brakes on won't allow me at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,606 ·
Finally got the front diff mount built. I decided to remove the middle tube as it was thin, and replaced it with a 3/8 X 2 inch flat bar. I had to take the diff in and out about 10 times to make sure measurements were exact before welding it all up. 3/8 flat bar fits nice and snug in the center of the Halo 30. Now I just need to weld it all into the frame.

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Discussion Starter · #1,607 ·
I am glad that project is done. That was a lot of work just to gain 1/2 inch of Prop shaft clearance. It's really hard to get a good weld with the cheapest welder Harbor freight sells, but it got the job done. That little boxed frame is now the strongest portion of frame on the Can am. Now I have the clearance to get a RCV Chromoly Prop shaft.
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Discussion Starter · #1,608 ·
Before and After Prop Shaft Clearance.
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Discussion Starter · #1,611 ·
Are you going to repaint the frame?
I was hoping to find the same Can Am Tan color, but I have not got that far yet. For your question yes I plan to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,612 ·
I carry a tire plug kit, but I also just bought this really nice patch kit that I will also carry with me. I do have military rated run flat tires, but the other people I trail with don't.
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Discussion Starter · #1,613 ·
Parking brake arrived from UTV INC. I will try to find some time tomorrow to get it installed.
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Anyone lower their front Halo for more Prop Shaft clearance to allow a RCV shaft to be installed? Stock U joint is 2.25 inches, and RCV CV joint is 2.75. I was touching before I did some grinding. I am thinking of welding a steel plate under the frame tube, and then cutting out all original diff mount. Then I will also need to modify my lower Super Atv frame support. While I am here I probable will also change upper gusset to RT Race worx since it is a one piece from front to back for more support.
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Where was the prop shaft rubbing? I am having issues with U-joint of the Sandcraft shaft hitting my power steering rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,615 ·
Where was the prop shaft rubbing? I am having issues with U-joint of the Sandcraft shaft hitting my power steering rack.
My prop shaft was rubbing between the U joint and my Hydro steering. Do you also have a Halo 30? Mine rubbing was due to the height of the Halo 30 in combination with the location of my hydro steering. After lowering the Halo 1/2 inch I don't have any clearance issues and will be able to add the larger diameter RCV prop shaft.
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My prop shaft was rubbing between the U joint and my Hydro steering. Do you also have a Halo 30? Mine rubbing was due to the height of the Halo 30 in combination with the location of my hydro steering. After lowering the Halo 1/2 inch I don't have any clearance issues and will be able to add the larger diameter RCV prop shaft.
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I have the stock differential in a 2017 X3. I have the S3 gusset kit, which should strengthen the front end. But, the prop shaft manufacturer is telling me my frame is bent and this is why the u-joint is hitting the stock steering rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,617 ·
I have the stock differential in a 2017 X3. I have the S3 gusset kit, which should strengthen the front end. But, the prop shaft manufacturer is telling me my frame is bent and this is why the u-joint is hitting the stock steering rack.
If you have a bent frame causing Prop shaft to hit your steering it would have paint cracked on the frame tubes at or before the frame box between the front diff and the fire wall. Look at this area closely that I have pictured.

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I have the stock differential in a 2017 X3. I have the S3 gusset kit, which should strengthen the front end. But, the prop shaft manufacturer is telling me my frame is bent and this is why the u-joint is hitting the stock steering rack.
It could also possibly be a problem from the factory. Can Am is pretty inconsistent welding in the mounts for the steering rack. That's why some cars have tons of bump steer problems and others almost no bump steer.

The rack can sit high in the frame or low in the frame from one machine to another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,619 ·
It could also possibly be a problem from the factory. Can Am is pretty inconsistent welding in the mounts for the steering rack. That's why some cars have tons of bump steer problems and others almost no bump steer.

The rack can sit high in the frame or low in the frame from one machine to another.
I agree there is definitely differences in the front end between Can Am's when they are made as some people can install the Halo 30 with the hydro steering and have no clearance issues, and mine had a clearance issue.
 

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If you have a bent frame causing Prop shaft to hit your steering it would have paint cracked on the frame tubes at or before the frame box between the front diff and the fire wall. Look at this area closely that I have pictured.

View attachment 274795
Yes, I agree. There should be signs of the frame being bent. I was under the car with a flashlight looking for any indication of the frame being bent. I saw nothing which would lead me to believe the frame would be bent. I am just trying to determine my next step at this point. The aftermarket prop shaft will not fit without destroying the steering, so do I completely modify the differential mounting area as you did. Which looks great by the way.
 
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