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Discussion Starter · #1,321 ·
Tomorrow I will start putting the Can Am back together. Only one part not here is one axle, and it should be arriving tomorrow. My Super Dave bushings, and sleeves arrived today. I ordered up Sandcraft sleeves without bushings for my Ct Race Worx Arms when they arrive. I am installing all the bolts on the A Arms to allow single A Arm removal with my SATV frame stiffener I have. The way the bolts are now it requires all A Arms to be removed at the same time. I added the CT Race Worx lower front A Arm race plate with welded bolts. Hollywood don't like the idea of having those front lower bolts reversed because they can loosen and fall out if not caught. With that in mind I have drilled my bolts to allow Cotter Pins to be installed for an additional safety factor above adding the Thread Locker to the bolts. I did a loose fit on bolts to make sure I had the length along with clearance before the bolt hits the frame, and it looks good so far.
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Tomorrow I will start putting the Can Am back together. Only one part not here is one axle, and it should be arriving tomorrow. My Super Dave bushings, and sleeves arrived today. I ordered up Sandcraft sleeves without bushings for my Ct Race Worx Arms when they arrive. I am installing all the bolts on the A Arms to allow single A Arm removal with my SATV frame stiffener I have. The way the bolts are now it requires all A Arms to be removed at the same time. I added the CT Race Worx lower front A Arm race plate with welded bolts. Hollywood don't like the idea of having those front lower bolts reversed because they can loosen and fall out if not caught. With that in mind I have drilled my bolts to allow Cotter Pins to be installed for an additional safety factor above adding the Thread Locker to the bolts. I did a loose fit on bolts to make sure I had the length along with clearance before the bolt hits the frame, and it looks good so far.
View attachment 272971
I like it!
 
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Tomorrow I will start putting the Can Am back together. Only one part not here is one axle, and it should be arriving tomorrow. My Super Dave bushings, and sleeves arrived today. I ordered up Sandcraft sleeves without bushings for my Ct Race Worx Arms when they arrive. I am installing all the bolts on the A Arms to allow single A Arm removal with my SATV frame stiffener I have. The way the bolts are now it requires all A Arms to be removed at the same time. I added the CT Race Worx lower front A Arm race plate with welded bolts. Hollywood don't like the idea of having those front lower bolts reversed because they can loosen and fall out if not caught. With that in mind I have drilled my bolts to allow Cotter Pins to be installed for an additional safety factor above adding the Thread Locker to the bolts. I did a loose fit on bolts to make sure I had the length along with clearance before the bolt hits the frame, and it looks good so far.
View attachment 272971
Do you think you can get those cotter pins in without pulling the diff? Really properly torqued and a thread locker, they aren't going anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,325 ·
Do you think you can get those cotter pins in without pulling the diff? Really properly torqued and a thread locker, they aren't going anywhere.
Yes I have dry fit the bolts with A arm on to test the length of the bolt before i drilled the bolt, so I knew where to drill. Bolt don't hit the front diff, but it comes very close to the weak metal flange on the frame. It will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,330 ·
Got a Late start working on the Can Am, and then I was very slow at installing the Arms. I felt like I was performing a circus act while fighting the Frame Stiffener, Gussets, and the new Super Daves Bushings with the wear plates. I did manage to get all the arms on and torqued.
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Discussion Starter · #1,331 ·
Little more parts put on today. I should have it all put back together tomorrow. 😄
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Discussion Starter · #1,332 ·
All Back together. Now its time to turn the Can Am around on lift, and tear the back end apart. I see clips came out on the lower radius rods, and I am doing double shear on the middle radius rod.
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How much ground clearance do you have? Looks well over 18"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,334 ·
How much ground clearance do you have? Looks well over 18"?
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I have 28 inches in the front, and 25 inches in the rear when it settles down to normal ride height. Right now the front is sitting at 30 inches ground clearance.
 
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Geeeez!!!!! You should be able to roll over anything!

Can't even tell about the clips?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,336 ·
Geeeez!!!!! You should be able to roll over anything!

Can't even tell about the clips?
Yes I just head for the big rocks with the clearance I have. What you mean on the clips? It the rear lower radius rod in the trailing arm. Was in the trailing arm and now in the portal backing plate.
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Yes I just head for the big rocks with the clearance I have. What you mean on the clips? It the rear lower radius rod in the frame. Or was in the frame and now in the portal backing plate.
View attachment 273073
It's too much of a close up, LOL.I can see the broken clip, but it's tough to see anything else?
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,338 ·
It's too much of a close up, LOL.I can see the broken clip, but it's tough to see anything else?
Here is a further out picture. Clip is on bottom radius rod between the portal baking plate and the trailing arm.
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Discussion Starter · #1,340 ·
Got it now!
When that clip comes out your rear tire will twist a little (like rear steering) putting more strain on the middle radius rod bolt. When that middle radius rod bolt breaks you have so much rear steering you cant even go straight. LOL This is the second time both sides have came out. I talked to Ross and he said its very easy to install them wrong. Now I just need to figure out how to install them correctly especially if the dealer was not able to do it.
 
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