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Replaced the last front boot that needed to be replaced. Tore it all down and checked it all out while installing the boot. Everything looked great. Tried to take apart the rear CV but couldn't get it apart. This was the rear driver side that had ripped a boot for some unknow reason. I did see some issues while taking the cup off. Locking clip was stuck and very difficult to remove. Looks like the end of the stub shaft had hit inside the cup causing the end spline to flatten out towards where the clip rides. I spent an hour using a file to fix the clip slot to allow a clip to go in. After all that I spent over an hour trying to take apart the CV without any success. I gave up and just shipped it back to Turner to inspect and rebuild as needed. Now I just need to buy something to hold all these spare axles. It's crazy having 2K in spare axles for just in case I ever need one. I wish all the axels were the same so I would only need 1 instead of 3 different ones. I have 1 spare for each front, and 2 spares for the rear with one being my original stock axle. Being that I have never broke any of my Turner axles it's probably over kill, but I know how good I am at breaking things so not taking anything to chance. I will also probably buy a set of Portal internal gears with whatever is needed to rebuild if one breaks, but I need to do some research to find out if all 4 have the same internal parts. I assume they would.
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Replaced the last front boot that needed to be replaced. Tore it all down and checked it all out while installing the boot. Everything looked great. Tried to take apart the rear CV but couldn't get it apart. This was the rear driver side that had ripped a boot for some unknow reason. I did see some issues while taking the cup off. Locking clip was stuck and very difficult to remove. Looks like the end of the stub shaft had hit inside the cup causing the end spline to flatten out towards where the clip rides. I spent an hour using a file to fix the clip slot to allow a clip to go in. After all that I spent over an hour trying to take apart the CV without any success. I gave up and just shipped it back to Turner to inspect and rebuild as needed. Now I just need to buy something to hold all these spare axles. It's crazy having 2K in spare axles for just in case I ever need one. I wish all the axels were the same so I would only need 1 instead of 3 different ones. I have 1 spare for each front, and 2 spares for the rear with one being my original stock axle. Being that I have never broke any of my Turner axles it's probably over kill, but I know how good I am at breaking things so not taking anything to chance. I will also probably buy a set of Portal internal gears with whatever is needed to rebuild if one breaks, but I need to do some research to find out if all 4 have the same internal parts. I assume they would.
View attachment 284517 View attachment 284518 View attachment 284519
An almost full set of Turner’s for spares 😳It might be time to admit you have a custom SXS problem. That’s the first step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,383 ·
An almost full set of Turner’s for spares 😳It might be time to admit you have a custom SXS problem. That’s the first step.
Too late for the First Step as I am now at the Fifth Step
First Step
I will blame it on the supply chain issue that makes everything take so long to get parts. First time I sent my Turner axle in was after my trip to Moab where I ripped the lower A Arm off, snapped upper Keller ball joint, and it had pulled the axle out. It took a month for them to get the powder coating needed for my color. After this I started creating my own supply chain of on hand parts so I wouldn't lose out on riding waiting on parts to arrive. This is when I ordered one extra Turner axle with extra bands, boots, and clips (recently got the other 2 axles), extra front Portal backing plates, complete set of extra front end bolts including portal bolts. For some reason Vegas just doesn't have the correct bolts that fit the Can Am (at least on the ones I break, bend or damage). I have spent a full day running around Vegas just looking for one bolt that I needed, but it was only available to order up this is why I bought all the bolts.
Second Step
This didn't work out so well as I created my own down time having custom work installed like cage, and dash that ended up taking 3 months to get all done.
Third Step I will have to admit that I had no clue you could add this many parts to a Can Am.
Forth Step I will have to admit I went down a really deep rabbit Hole and I will get to the end of it.
I am currently at the Fifth Step that I am seeing some light at the end of the Rabbit Hole
 
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Discussion Starter · #2,385 ·
So what’s the fix for the custom backing plates that you bent?
Front was custom not the rear
I am going to add some 3/8 steel vertically in two places to stop the bending like what was done on the front ones (see attached picture of before and after of the front that was done for ref.) This is just going to be a temp fix as when I have the rear hydraulic steering done the whole back end will be all custom made. They will need to make custom trailing arms (CT will be involved on that process) custom sliding plate to replace the Radius Rod plate, Custom Radius Rods, and probably more stuff that I can't think of right now. I am told that the whole rear will be built at least 3X the strength of the front to hold up. Knowing Ross he will probably build it 6X to make it bullet proof. Ross and CT have already been discussing what will be needed to do my rear steering.
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Front was custom not the rear
I am going to add some 3/8 steel vertically in two places to stop the bending like what was done on the front ones (see attached picture of before and after of the front that was done for ref.) This is just going to be a temp fix as when I have the rear hydraulic steering done the whole back end will be all custom made. They will need to make custom trailing arms (CT will be involved on that process) custom sliding plate to replace the Radius Rod plate, Custom Radius Rods, and probably more stuff that I can't think of right now. I am told that the whole rear will be built at least 3X the strength of the front to hold up. Knowing Ross he will probably build it 6X to make it bullet proof. Ross and CT have already been discussing what will be needed to do my rear steering.
View attachment 284548
Nice, I thought you had upgraded front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,387 ·
Nice, I thought you had upgraded front and rear.
Nope just $750 for the front two Custom Portal backing plates. Front kept bending to put the upper Ball Joint into the CV Boot. For the rear portal backing plates I only added a custom double shear to stop the middle Radius Rod bolt from snapping off. That fixed it until I bent the whole plate that the double shear was welded to. See pictures of bent one with the double shear and the new warranty one that just came in today. I will have to cut the double shear off and install on the new plate along with some extra 3/8 steel roughly in the areas that is marked white. I might not need to go all the way across to get enough strength and will really depend on any clearance issues I see before I weld it all up.
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Discussion Starter · #2,388 ·
Cut the double shear off the bent Portal backing plate and installed in on the new one along with some 3/8 steel supports. Just need to cut the groves deeper for the c-clips that hold in the bushings, and it's all done.
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Discussion Starter · #2,389 ·
Just got the report back from Turner on my rear axle that had a ripped boot I sent them. They said it was damaged (stiff and binding), So they are replacing the outer CV. I asked them what the cause could be, and they said it's just due to the type of riding I do, and they have improved the grease they now use that will help to make it last longer. So, I am guessing CV was making extra heat and that is what helped the boot to rip.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2,395 ·
Seats are all installed except for rear passenger. I will have to do some sort of work around to get bolts tight with the dual batteries. I also would like to make it very easy to remove that seat over the batteries, so that's going to requires some planning. Just in case anyone wants to know the PRP seats with the lowering mount still makes them 2-1/4 inches higher than stock seats. If you don't have a fuel tank under the seat you could do some modifications and lower the seat back down close to stock seat height.
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Discussion Starter · #2,396 ·
This is a video of the guy I was running with last time I was in Sand Hollow. We both tried to climb this trail Middle Monkey, but I stopped him before he flipped over, and I also almost flipped over and stopped myself. lol. I told him we need a good spotter to do this climb safely. Well, he went back out yesterday without a spotter, but with a someone that could shoot the video. I have saw videos of people doing it easily when they have a good spotter, so It's on my list to go back and climb.
 
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How come you don't have 5 point harnesses?

That's a no no for a crawler!

Seats look great by the way.


Tim
 

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I am ordering 50 CAL 5 point harnesses.
Look at Teamtech.

Expensive but high quality.

They are what the big auto manufacturers use for testing.


You customer order each belt.


Any color combo and PULL UP lap belts.

Tim
 
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