Can-Am Maverick Forum banner
2361 - 2380 of 2416 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,361 ·
All back together now. Passenger axle boot shouldn't be able to get ripped now that I cut off an 1/8 of the upper Ball joint stud. Drivers side might be ok without cutting an 1/8 off, but I might just do it to be safe. All torqued down and red loctite added so it should be good to go. Now I just need to take driver rear axle off to inspect and put a new boot on it. I think its damaged just because I can't see anyway the boot could have ripped all the way around.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Crankset
Automotive tire Wood Coil Gas Coil spring
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tmesic

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,362 ·
Today I removed the rear axle to swap it out with my spare one that is arriving tomorrow. Boot is ripped but the axle feels good, so not sure how it ripped. I will tear it down for full inspection to repair as needed. Rear driver side portal backing plate is bent and the bolts are bent so working on a warranty for those items. I also noticed on further inspection I have some cracks in the trailing arm that I will have to weld some additional steel to it to make it last until I have the new CT ones made that will work with the rear steering that is getting built at end of the year. Passenger rear looks all good. Driver's rear has always been the one that gets hit the hardest, and the passenger front is also hit the hardest.
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive tire Hood
Wood Tints and shades Gas Metal Twig
Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle
Wood Wrench Automotive tire Tool Metalworking hand tool
Automotive tire Road surface Asphalt Grey Automotive exterior
Cosmetics Office supplies Writing implement Automotive tire Wood
Gas Auto part Engineering Metal Composite material
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior
Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Auto part
 

·
Premium Member
2018 Maverick X3RC Turbo R
Joined
·
156 Posts
Today I removed the rear axle to swap it out with my spare one that is arriving tomorrow. Boot is ripped but the axle feels good, so not sure how it ripped. I will tear it down for full inspection to repair as needed. Rear driver side portal backing plate is bent and the bolts are bent so working on a warranty for those items. I also noticed on further inspection I have some cracks in the trailing arm that I will have to weld some additional steel to it to make it last until I have the new CT ones made that will work with the rear steering that is getting built at end of the year. Passenger rear looks all good. Driver's rear has always been the one that gets hit the hardest, and the passenger front is also hit the hardest.
View attachment 284321 View attachment 284322 View attachment 284323 View attachment 284324 View attachment 284325 View attachment 284326 View attachment 284327 View attachment 284328 View attachment 284329
S3 makes a trailing arm weld-in gusset kit that might help you in the meantime. I think it’s under $200 even
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,364 ·
S3 makes a trailing arm weld-in gusset kit that might help you in the meantime. I think it’s under $200 even
It looks like their trailing arm gusset kit is in other areas besides where my cracks are except for the one on top of trailing arm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lelando42

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
It looks like their trailing arm gusset kit is in other areas besides where my cracks are except for the one on top of trailing arm.
I had to do two different kits to gusset my trailing arms. I cannot remember who the other company was.

Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,366 ·
I had to do two different kits to gusset my trailing arms. I cannot remember who the other company was.

Tim
Was yours starting to bend or did you just do that to make sure they didn't bend? I just need to get to the end of the year with mine then the custom rear steering will have new custom trailing arms made to work with it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
Was yours starting to bend or did you just do that to make sure they didn't bend? I just need to get to the end of the year with mine then the custom rear steering will have new custom trailing arms made to work with it.
Mine were developing cracks at the rear hub area so I did the gussets around the rear hub area and then the big side gussets I think from S3.

Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,368 ·
Mine were developing cracks at the rear hub area so I did the gussets around the rear hub area and then the big side gussets I think from S3.

Tim
How many miles did you have on it when you first saw the cracks? These trailing arms are hard to weld up as they are so thin especial when you're using a crap welder.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
How many miles did you have on it when you first saw the cracks? These trailing arms are hard to weld up as they are so thin especial when you're using a crap welder.
I think about 3500 miles.

Tim
 
  • Like
Reactions: Speed Buggy

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,370 ·
I think about 3500 miles.

Tim
Ok hopefully mine will make it until end of the year. Left rear is the only one that had any cracks, and it's the side that I have broken the center radius rod bold on several times until I double sheared it. It's also the side that I just bent my portal backing plate, along with bending all its bolts. If my welds don't make the original trailing arm metal weaker, I should be ok. I am adding extra steel plates to help out just in case.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,374 ·
This is as far as I got on the trailing arm repair today. I still need to add another piece of steel and weld it all up. A good welder would've been really nice to make this welding easier. I had to put a lot of welds together so I wouldn't keep burning through that thin metal.
Reptile Lizard Insect Scaled reptile Wood
Bicycle part Wood Auto part Tool Metal
 
  • Like
Reactions: AZ Off Road

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,375 ·
Well, the crack repairs are all done. I added more steel than I probably needed for those little cracks, but it's done and that's all that matters.
Wood Tints and shades Gas Metal Twig
Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle
Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Auto part
Wood Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior Bumper
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bumper
Wood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Landscape
Automotive tire Wood Asphalt Road surface Motor vehicle
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,376 ·
My Turner spare axles have arrived. I have 4 boots on order to replace the two that are torn and have 2 for spares. So far, I have not broken any of my Turner axles just torn the boots.
Product Wood Musical instrument Sports equipment Gas
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
My Turner spare axles have arrived. I have 4 boots on order to replace the two that are torn and have 2 for spares. So far, I have not broken any of my Turner axles just torn the boots.
View attachment 284365
I wonder of you would not benefit from some leather cv joint covers?

Like these.

Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,379 ·
I wonder of you would not benefit from some leather cv joint covers?

Like these.

Tim
One reason I have went through so many CV boots is because the first one that ripped was due to dealer not tightening the upper ball joint and upper A Arm came off. The 2nd one ripped due to Mistake at Moab on the Escalator that Snapped my upper A Arm,3rd,4th, and 5th one's that ripped was due to the Portal Backing plates bending and that put the upper ball joint into the CV boot. I have had custom portal backing plates made that resolved that issue. The 6th boot that ripped was the front passenger side and it was also ripped from the upper ball joint stud or cotter pin that I have now cut 1/8 inch off the stud just above where the cotter pin would go for the extra clearance. This should stop that issue. For the 7th rear boot that just ripped I am not sure exactly how that happened until I tear the CV joint apart to inspect for possible damages. If it's not damaged, then it is possible that with my electric sway bar disengaged I am getting too much angle on the CV joint at full shock extension and might need to put limit straps on the rear to help that issue. All this in just 526 miles. lol The only good thing is that I have not had any axle issues so when a boot rips I don't even slow down to worry about it until I am ready to deal with it.
I think the problem should now be resolved, but if not then I will look into that leather boot option.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AZ Off Road

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,380 ·
Not a Polaris fan but think you should get new Pro R.
Ya after 140K that won't ever be happening. I have what I want and its almost all the way dialed in now. Just two more items to install (Rear steering, Dual rated air bags) and then I am all done except for anything that needs replaced due to wear or a mistake.
 
2361 - 2380 of 2416 Posts
Top