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Discussion Starter #1
In the rhino world, there's no belt break-in or other breakage non-sense.....Now I know there's a huge horsepower difference, but it seems odd that they've designed a high performance machine with the same belt as a 24HP rhino and we have to worry about belts all the time. Maybe I'm looking into this too much, but I should be able to do what I want with a stock machine and not worry about pussy-footing around because of my belt. I don't baby my car everywhere out of fear I may launch the tranny out the back! :mad:

Sorry, rant over! :kiss:
 

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your stock clutch is designed to slip the belt when you are under great loads. when you slip the belt you generate LOTS of heat. this heat blows the belt. once you replace the stock primary for a unit that is not designed to slip the belt then you run into the problem of the stock secondary not being able to backshift while you are at full throttle or under great loads, and then the secondary starts overheating the belts and burning the belts.


everything that causes the can-am to blow belts, your machine did not have problems with. you cant go as fast, you cant create the loads that comes with that kinda weights at those speeds with that kinda power. plus you had a wet clutch style clutch. which is the BEST clutch on the market for belt life. BUT it is NOT the best clutch on the market for performance. so the rhino sacrificed performance for belt life. the guys doing the bronco clutch and wet clutch deletes on the rhinos gained the performance of a dry clutch, BUT they sacrificed the dependability and belt life to gain performane in a straight line.
 

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in my rhino, I've lost 2 belts in over 6,000 miles. Both of which were due to the snow-mobile exposed clutch (which went away) - never lost a belt with the stock clutching.
my rhino (780 stroker) put down 61 RWHP, so its quite a bit more than stock - I'm not sure what the Maverick puts down, but I'd guess it's in the 80's at the wheels.
I've never did any break-in or even worried about the belt, although I always have a spare with me.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Im taking mine riding this weekend and Im worried I dont have a spare belt.....lol.
 

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so the rhino sacrificed performance for belt life. the guys doing the bronco clutch and wet clutch deletes on the rhinos gained the performance of a dry clutch, BUT they sacrificed the dependability and belt life to gain performane in a straight line.
good point, the rhino primary doesn't sit and spin while it is idling, only when your under power
however, I think the dry clutch wasn't all that - I didn't dyno before and after with the Bronco, but it was a pos and any minimal gains were not worth the headaches - for me anyway.
 

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Im taking mine riding this weekend and Im worried I dont have a spare belt.....lol.
taking mine out this weekend and already have an extra belt on order, but it won't be here till next week.
I've always packed a spare belt in my rhino, and a tow strap, and jumper cables, and a air compressor, and tire plugs :)
My tow strap had been hooked up to Kawa's, RZR's, other Yamaha's, but it never towed a Can Am back to camp :)
 
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too much of the " when in doubt, throttle out" syndrome! ive yet to smoke belts on 32" terminators and have been in some nasty junk! and even towed a couple out. its all in throttle control!
 

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I lost a belt over this past weekend. I have 25 hours and just a little over 300 miles. I realize now that my belt failure has more to do with driver error than an actual mechanical defect. I was running it in high gear while in pretty thick sand and silt (Ocotillo Wells) when I should have been in low.
Mud_Dynasty is probably right. I think I have been more of a whiskey throttle kind of driver rather than a finesse driver. Not knowing the proper gear for that particular condition is surely to blame for my premature breakdown.
 

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belt failure is more driver error on newer belts ton of us have over 1000 miles same belt I have over 500 sand miles on mine and 400 dirt ,

people get there sxs in a hard spot or bind or run 32'' or 34'' tires and run thru mud a 800tq diesel couldn't get thru and wonder how a rubber belt broke , lol

break ur belt in first 20 miles on and off throttle couple 60 mph runs also ur breaking the motor in to , u want to break those rings in quick, slow break ins is no good in the long run puts a lot of wear on the cylinder walls then u start smoking down the road they say !
 

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Same here I've had over 500 Sand Miles in the oregon dunes on my stock belt, and Just replaced it for the heck of it... Kept the orig as a spare.

At first I was paranoid about breaking a belt so I replaced it. Learned a few things during the replacement in the garage. 6mm? or 8mm? Speed wrench is a must and is now in the on-board tool kit Plus a spare. Gonna run this Gates belt C12 Belt until it blows. Probably over 500 miles on that belt now too... Mostly Steep Oregon Dunes and Some Dirt, and even a little snow this last weekend.
 

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break ur belt in first 20 miles on and off throttle couple 60 mph runs also ur breaking the motor in to , u want to break those rings in quick, slow break ins is no good in the long run puts a lot of wear on the cylinder walls then u start smoking down the road they say
Really?, So the old saying used to be take it easy during break in time is not the best thing to do? I had a buddy that used to race motocross, He always said you want to break them in how you want them to run!! Hard and WFO!! I'm not sure as I would go to that extreme, but maybe a few on/off throttle at some higher speeds wouldn't be so bad?? Really get the motor up and warm then slow cool down?? IDK, hard to say whats best or broke in right!!
 

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yes they say don't putt around 20-30 mph ,

they say drive it lil harder get a few 60 mph runs in but don't go balls to the wall till 25-30 miles , lol I mean I floored mine a few times to feel the power I couldn't resist but didn't hold it long, lol
 

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Really?, So the old saying used to be take it easy during break in time is not the best thing to do? I had a buddy that used to race motocross, He always said you want to break them in how you want them to run!! Hard and WFO!! I'm not sure as I would go to that extreme, but maybe a few on/off throttle at some higher speeds wouldn't be so bad?? Really get the motor up and warm then slow cool down?? IDK, hard to say whats best or broke in right!!
This Guy says to run-em hard for break in
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 

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ya there is a few threads on here with lots of good info about break ins
 

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For sure, been searching tonight, found a lot of great info, give the belt just alittle break in few mins heat and cool down cycles, then break the motor in!! Waiting on my mav to get here,(hope in a week or so) then going to do my best to properly break it in
 

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Think of it this way...your running a 101 hp rig that weighs 1300 lbs on a rubber band. If you abuse said rubber band...it's gunna break. I had a belt blow at 750 miles. I was out tearing up dunes, jumping, and drag racing, all day without letting up or giving it time to cool off once in a while. Early that evening I was racing a built Commander. I gave him a huge headstart, and blew by him like he was in reverse. Just as I went past him...POW. Lesson learned. You can't just hammer on it non stop all day long.

I have since put another 750 miles on my Mav without incident. I still tear up the dunes, jump, and drag race all the time. I just know to stop every so often and give the belt 15-20 minutes to cool off.

I had my clutch out and apart recently (CVTech/STM combo), and my belt still looks like new. You don't have to baby these things at all. I ride mine like I stole it, but you do need to manage your rubber band. :smile:
 

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That whole article is written for cast iron sleeved engines no? Nearly all newer model street bikes are nikasil coated cylinders. I don't know if a mav is coated or cast iron. Does anyone know?

All that being said, honing is honing, and cast iron sleeves are all the same. A 600hp drag car is going to create more pressure to "seat" rings than a 101hp honda civic. I just took the head off my honda civic and it still has factory cross hatching at 260,000 miles. The same comparison can be made with a maverick vs a honda fourtrax 300. I have a 97 model with god knows how many miles on the original top end. This whole business of running it like a spotted ape right off the bat will most definitely seat the rings. How much ring wear is incurred in the process is an entirely different story. In days past compression ratios were lower, and cylinder pressure was much lower as a result. Also, most all atvs were gear driven instead of belt driven and therefore turned much lower rpm's in general. To me, it would seem a moderate riding sequence on a new maverick would be your best bet for proper engine break in.

Any thoughts?


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To add to what Adam said...the stock clutching isn't kind to the belt in the conditions I put my Mav thru. Adam did a little tuning to my clutch at Glamis last Thanks giving. He checked the belt temps with an IR thermometer, and my belt temps were about 160* while duning, and about 190* shooting the hill (4 back to back runs). Thats with the CVTech primary and STM secondary tuned properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So is a dalton upgrade a good star for more piece of mind?
 
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