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2018.5 Can Am Maverick X3 XRS
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to purchase front a-arms, and already have the shock tower brace installed. But haven't installed my gusset kit yet. While I have it literally all apart, I was thinking I should replace the axles (nothing is wrong with the stock ones) just wanted something more beefy than stock, I was leaning toward the Rhino 2.0 ones (best price) or the RCV ones (most expensive). And I wanted to reach out and see what other peoples experiences were with replacement axles...

Thanks in advanced,
-Jason
 

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My neighbor runs Summers Brothers and has good luck with them. I've read that some people have had troubles with the RCV axles. Granted I do not have any first hand experience just what I've seen (neighbors race car) or reading online.
 

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Got 17,000 miles out of stock axles; replaced em all when one went out. Got 8,500+ miles on the second set.

Rode with several people having troubles with RCV axles.


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My opinion, stick with OEM. If you really feel the need to change, lean in the direct opposite direction of Rhino.
 

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Here's my trouble with the stock ones, the smoked one had 1800 miles and the other had 15min on it after replacing the smoked one. Same riding location and style same day. I put the 3rd cv axle on that day to and it also about popped after 10-15min. I caught it and took it easy before it let go for the rest of the weekend so the trip wasn't ruined. They get to hot melt/pop the boots, why in the hell don't they run a moly grease in these? The grease looks just like the the stuff used in tripod cv joints.


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Here's my trouble with the stock ones, the smoked one had 1800 miles and the other had 15min on it after replacing the smoked one. Same riding location and style same day. I put the 3rd cv axle on that day to and it also about popped after 10-15min. I caught it and took it easy before it let go for the rest of the weekend so the trip wasn't ruined. They get to hot melt/pop the boots, why in the hell don't they run a moly grease in these? The grease looks just like the the stuff used in tripod cv joints.


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What kind of riding do you do? I have 8000 miles on my car including two NORRA races, many Baja 500 and 1000 pre-runs, etc and have never broken an axle or CV. Maybe there is a setup issue? Have you made any changes to the geometry? Big power motor? Were all the failures on the same corner? Hate to see you try and fix the problem by just buying an expensive axle only to break that too.
 

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Only thing I can figure is to much CV angle, it's a 72" machine with 16" of clearance from the bottom of the rear skid. The riding condition was a little harsh though also, it was a old lake bed that I roosted in a road race track that had lots of turns and high speed straits. Most of the turns were under power were you drift through them so probably high loading on the outer side around the turn, the dirt was damp clay like mixture so pretty good traction.
It just has a dynojet tune with a hollowed cat.
 

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What is the internal difference that would give one brand an advantage over any other?

Anyone know the specific details of the internals between the different applicable manufactures of X3 axles.

From reading it is usually the ball cage that is primarily the weak link? Is that accurate? Maybe a thicker cage is helpful? Better material properties?

Not a lot of axles typically fail from pure wear, is that correct?
But rather overloading with a torque spike? Both from creating larger internal tolerances from distortion on a non destructive hit allowing internal rocking leading to internal “hammering”, and pure overload failure one and done scenarios?

Assuming one manufacture is better than another, are they different enough to make it noticeably advantageous to select one over another based on what I think is an axles normal mode of failure?

I have read many times OEM for X3, is there any other info out there to dispute that?
Hopefully more than anecdotal?
 

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Its not just materials, the machining makes a big difference as well. Ever compare the c clip in a stock shaft vs a rhino?
 

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What is the internal difference that would give one brand an advantage over any other?

Anyone know the specific details of the internals between the different applicable manufactures of X3 axles.

From reading it is usually the ball cage that is primarily the weak link? Is that accurate? Maybe a thicker cage is helpful? Better material properties?

Not a lot of axles typically fail from pure wear, is that correct?
But rather overloading with a torque spike? Both from creating larger internal tolerances from distortion on a non destructive hit allowing internal rocking leading to internal “hammering”, and pure overload failure one and done scenarios?

Assuming one manufacture is better than another, are they different enough to make it noticeably advantageous to select one over another based on what I think is an axles normal mode of failure?

I have read many times OEM for X3, is there any other info out there to dispute that?
Hopefully more than anecdotal?
Sometimes it’s just something stupid, like the rubber boot - crappy boots on a great axle is going to be trouble.


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We had a guy in our group use an alternative to S.T. to set up his suspension. The car was setup basically topped out. He burned through three axles in one weekend.

Had his suspension setup by S.T. and no more axle issues.

By the way I didn't use S T and have had great results.

My point is running the car topped out can burn through axles. Just my 2 cents.


Tim
 

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OEM axles are really good. I have just over 5900 miles on my stock axles.

Only time I have seen axles snap is in the rocks and too much skinny pedal or after a rollover.


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I run RCV. Bent the stock ones. They looked like they were bowed and I just could not trust them. They never broke, just wobbled and people would ask me what was wrong with them. No problems with RCV.
 

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What kind of riding do you do? I have 8000 miles on my car including two NORRA races, many Baja 500 and 1000 pre-runs, etc and have never broken an axle or CV. Maybe there is a setup issue? Have you made any changes to the geometry? Big power motor? Were all the failures on the same corner? Hate to see you try and fix the problem by just buying an expensive axle only to break that too.
I will admit it was not just a sunday ride, I had 3 friends that desert race YZ450F's that couldn't hang but mostly due to not being able to take the turns as fast.
Breaking axles can a lot of times be root caused down to driver. Not knowing how/when to use the skinny pedal
Oh I agree like landing jumps under full throttle ect, spinning tires on a loose surface then catching on a hard surfaces ect.
 
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