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Hey Guys, I'm about to do my 10 hour service on my Mav. Of course the book recommends the XPS brand, But then goes on to say if XPS is not available to use a four stroke 5W 40 with at least one API rating of Either SJ, SL, or SM. On another thread a guy recommended Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic. When I got down to the auto parts store The Rotella T6 was for Diesel Engines, That put a lot of doubt in my mind, so that was out. All the motorcycle oils were 10W 40. And most of the car oils were 10W 40. The only oil I could find With 5W 40 was Castro Edge Full Synthetic. It had an API rating of SL and SM, so I decided to go with the Castro. Here are my concerns, In the manual it say to use 4 stroke oil, not specifically motorcycle oil. . . .Last time I checked cars are four stroke engines. . . .Is there really a difference between 4 stroke motorcycle oil and car oil ?? Would you guys run the common 10W 40 motorcycle oil instead of the weight recommended 5W 40 car oil ?? What's your opinion of that Castro full synthetic 5W 40 ?? Finally. . . .What are you guys running ???
THANKS for all your input, and hopefully this could help other guys out. . . ..
 

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use what ever makes you sleep better at night brother..... is the easy answer. most any quality syn oil is going to do fine, royal purple, amsoil, Pennzoil, brp, mobil 1... its all good. slight variances in weight is fine to. like 0w instead of 5 w
 

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Most motorcycle oils are developed to work on engines with a wet clutch setup so it will have lubricating different properties and addatives to prevent slipping of the clutch plates. A traditional 4 stroke engine in a car and an engine with a CVT tranny do not lubricate the transmission, so they have different properties and additives suited more specifically to just engine lubrication. As long as the oil meets the API rating, you will be OK. Are some better than others....of course. A full synthetic will be better for a high revving engine such as the Rotax in the Mav. Castrol is a good oil.....I personally use Mobil-1 or Amsoil in my toys.......just change it on schedule and ensure you keep the oil at the correct level and you will be fine. By the way, Rotella T is for diesels and Rotella T6 is full synthetic for gasoline engines.

Just an FYI....Wal-Mart carries Mobil-1 0W-40 because 95% of all european cars made today are now using it. So it is the 10W-40 of today so to speak. It is probably the best priced flu synthetic you will find @ $24.97 for 5 quarts. That's less than $13 per oil change....

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W-40-Advanced-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/23636902
 

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Most motorcycle oils are developed to work on engines with a wet clutch setup so it will have lubricating different properties and addatives to prevent slipping of the clutch plates. A traditional 4 stroke engine in a car and an engine with a CVT tranny do not lubricate the transmission, so they have different properties and additives suited more specifically to just engine lubrication. As long as the oil meets the API rating, you will be OK. Are some better than others....of course. A full synthetic will be better for a high revving engine such as the Rotax in the Mav. Castrol is a good oil.....I personally use Mobil-1 or Amsoil in my toys.......just change it on schedule and ensure you keep the oil at the correct level and you will be fine.
Give that man a cigar...truer words have never been writen.:wink:
 

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I am going to use the Mobil 1 0w-40w from Walmart because it was $25 for five quarts and should be as good as the other oils. All the premium full synthetics should be good as long as they have the recommend rating. I researched all the oils for about a week and really liked royal purple and amsoil. But I heard the Mobil 1 0w-40w was good and has to meet spec put out by high end European car manufacturers so I decided to try it.
 

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also a really good practice, maybe its just me, maybe I over do it, but never had engine issues on anything in my life. I change engine oil every 30 hours and the filter every other change. way more often than oem suggests
 

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I've always used Mobil 1 in my cars and supercharged race engine boats with great results. However, all BMW's ship with, and recommend, Castro Edge. One of my BMW's will void the warranty if a very specific Castro oil is not used, due to extremely high pressures for the variable cam / valve timing system (VANOS system is over 1600psi). I don't think you can go wrong with either, but I'm sure the Bavarian engineers are using the absolute best lubricating oils they could find.
 

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Hey Guys,

I am also coming up close to my first one and noticed the recommendations from BRP. I also have a polaris Ranger 800, and have had sportsmans before, they all recommend running on 0w 40 synthetic, and its all year around oil. For me that is what I want and need as sometimes the way oil changes go, I maybe in summer or winter, so i need an oil that can handle both, would it be crazy to be running Polaris oil in a maverick or dangerous? : ) May run the mobil 0-40 if its rated to be better.
 

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Hey Guys,

I am also coming up close to my first one and noticed the recommendations from BRP. I also have a polaris Ranger 800, and have had sportsmans before, they all recommend running on 0w 40 synthetic, and its all year around oil. For me that is what I want and need as sometimes the way oil changes go, I maybe in summer or winter, so i need an oil that can handle both, would it be crazy to be running Polaris oil in a maverick or dangerous? : ) May run the mobil 0-40 if its rated to be better.
As long as the oil has the correct API rating that Can Am calls for, you will be fine. I would bet that the Mobil-1 will be much cheaper than the Polaris full synthetic though. So personally, I would run it instead.
 
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Can't beat Walmart for oil prices, but they dont sell Amsoil. :disappointed:
 

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Amsoil 0-40 four stoke oil is all I use and have for years in all my can am's, in fact that's the only oil I run in all my vehicles I believe it is the best out there!


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I'm new here and to the SXS world. I want to add my two cents. I'm not new to the engine world and own my mobile auto repair business and have been building engines from 5hp lawn mowers to high HP big blocks for about 30 years. Earlier this year I had my first catastrophic engine failure after building a Ford 400M for an older truck. After doing a teardown of the engine and a lot of arguing with a large camshaft manufacturer, I did a lot of research and found that our lovely EPA required all oil companies remove zinc and lot of other additives from all automotive oils in 2012. Supposedly because of the harm that comes to our beloved catalytic converters in the late model vehicles. :furious: I rebuilt the engine and it's been running great.

I now use Rotella Synthetic T-6 in just about everything because the EPA still allows for all the additives to be in diesel and motorcycle oil. I know a lot of people like Amsoil, but all automotive oils do not contain the additives necessary for proper lubrication of camshafts. If you want your engine to last do not use automotive oils. If you do add some engine break-in oil additive that can be found at any good auto parts store. Trent
 
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I'm new here and to the SXS world. I want to add my two cents. I'm not new to the engine world and own my mobile auto repair business and have been building engines from 5hp lawn mowers to high HP big blocks for about 30 years. Earlier this year I had my first catastrophic engine failure after building a Ford 400M for an older truck. After doing a teardown of the engine and a lot of arguing with a large camshaft manufacturer, I did a lot of research and found that our lovely EPA required all oil companies remove zinc and lot of other additives from all automotive oils in 2012. Supposedly because of the harm that comes to our beloved catalytic converters in the late model vehicles. :furious: I rebuilt the engine and it's been running great.

I now use Rotella Synthetic T-6 in just about everything because the EPA still allows for all the additives to be in diesel and motorcycle oil. I know a lot of people like Amsoil, but all automotive oils do not contain the additives necessary for proper lubrication of camshafts. If you want your engine to last do not use automotive oils. If you do add some engine break-in oil additive that can be found at any good auto parts store. Trent
good info thanks......one question though...if the Can Am engine needed the zinc and other additives I would assume it would be in their oils....correct? And wouldn't any of the oils that Can Am say are OK to use based on the API certification be safe as well? Just about all of the major brand oils for automobiles have the API certification required by Can Am to run in the Rotax engine......
 
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BRP oils still have zinc for now. EPA is putting new regulations(restrictions) on everything everyday! BRP might have to go to roller rockers if they find problems their catalytic converters. It's crazy how much info has to be consumed just to keep up...it's makes my head spin.
 

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Something to think about........ The reason we love zinc is its ability to cling, so top end doesn't have to wait for oil which was a concern when we were running 20w50 or sae30 or sae50 but with 0w and 5w it travels so fast because it's a lot thinner it's not as much of a concern. I agree with heavysledz when he says "if it meets the manufacturers requirements you can't go wrong"
 
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