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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious guys on this issue which clutch kit is worth a !&[email protected] I know EPI makes one but with heavy tires around 60+ pounds a piece and mixed trail/mud riding what is a good low cost band aid till I can afford a QSC/STM combo? I've smoked my belt slightly trying to reverse a couple times from a dead stop in mud so I really need to address this....
 

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Just save for a clutch instead of wasting your money.
 

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If you buy the $250 clutch kit and 2 spare belts, just wait another month and buy a QSC or CV Tech for the same price. I understand it's alot of money, I pissed and moaned for months before I ordered mine. I bet you it will be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I'm hoping with all these different clutches and upgrades they are putting out , maybe in the off season prices may get more reasonable on a Cv-tech or a Qsc primary. Hell I'd prolly take a used one! Lol .... I just don't understand why I'm burning my belt only in reverse in 4wd in very little mud . I've done it twice already ! Not smoked it bad but damn!
 

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team industries and another company are making clutches for the mav and will be out soon,

make sure ur always in low gear


the Dalton clutch kit will help keep a tight grip on half the belt with the tighter spring , and lighter weights on primary , and I think the clutch kit might still work with a aftermarket clutch , all the Dalton is , is a spring for the secondary , and 3 weights for the primary , u don't need to use those,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep , since the new tires I have only put it in high maybe twice for a couple high speed runs . It stays in low all the time now . It's only burned in reverse . If I just change the secondary spring do you think that would fix my little issue without causing problem elsewhere ?
 

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I agree with guys posting earlier that say just save your money for a new primary. Clutch kit is $250 & new primary $800ish but much much better.
 

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you are burning belts in reverse because you are loading the engine up against the reverse limiter. you hear it tagging the soft rev limiter, means the engine is cutting out and dying. every time your engine dies, about 2 times a second, the clutch releases the belt. the clutch is torque sensitive, as you apply torque, the clutch closes and grabs the belt. when you're hitting that rev limiter (around 4-5mph in reverse or 3500rpm) then the engine is constantly dying, over and over and over, and the clutch is releaseing the belt, and when the engine fires back up the clutch grabs the belt again over and over and over. the clutch is opening and closing as fast as you are hitting that rev limiter 2 times a second, this is making the clutch slap the belt over and over and over and will not apply a full constant grab to the belt so it makes the clutch slip the belt very easily.

you gotta remember to hold the reverse over-ride switch when backing up in the mud. i slipped a belt earlier today on a mverick backing it up a small hill on my own place with the owner riding shotgun. i tell folks to do it all the time, dont back up under loads without hitting the reverse over-ride button or it will slip a belt. and i did it myself today backing up turning around on flat ground but had the back end kinda drive up over a little hump like a small dirt mound and slipped the shit outta the belt when it decided to hit that rev limiter. i told the owner whoops, dont forget to hold that button down when you are backing up in the mud or you'll torch that belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
you are burning belts in reverse because you are loading the engine up against the reverse limiter. you hear it tagging the soft rev limiter, means the engine is cutting out and dying. every time your engine dies, about 2 times a second, the clutch releases the belt. the clutch is torque sensitive, as you apply torque, the clutch closes and grabs the belt. when you're hitting that rev limiter (around 4-5mph in reverse or 3500rpm) then the engine is constantly dying, over and over and over, and the clutch is releaseing the belt, and when the engine fires back up the clutch grabs the belt again over and over and over. the clutch is opening and closing as fast as you are hitting that rev limiter 2 times a second, this is making the clutch slap the belt over and over and over and will not apply a full constant grab to the belt so it makes the clutch slip the belt very easily.

you gotta remember to hold the reverse over-ride switch when backing up in the mud. i slipped a belt earlier today on a mverick backing it up a small hill on my own place with the owner riding shotgun. i tell folks to do it all the time, dont back up under loads without hitting the reverse over-ride button or it will slip a belt. and i did it myself today backing up turning around on flat ground but had the back end kinda drive up over a little hump like a small dirt mound and slipped the shit outta the belt when it decided to hit that rev limiter. i told the owner whoops, dont forget to hold that button down when you are backing up in the mud or you'll torch that belt.
Thank you so much for that info ! I kinda feel retarded but it never occurred to me that is exactly what was happening . I've never had a problem ever in low or high, only reverse . Anyway , Thanx again!
What's your insight on just adding a secondary spring to a stock clutch? Bandaid or disaster ?
 

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Well I guess it's lucky that us SoCal folks don't ever have to use reverse! Lol
Not true. I have to get it out of my garage somehow. I forgot about that override switch
 

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installing the secondary spring is a band-aid not a true fix. your primary is designed to slip the belt under loads, meaning when you get in a bind the primary is designed to slip. with big tires you're always gonna slip the belt when you get off in the nasty stuff. a new primary is the only true fix.

you guys in the sand will see it too if you are in 2wd and bury the rear tires and try to put it in reverse and back out of your own ruts. most of the time you guys throttle out with the skinny pedal, but sometimes reverse is the only way out of a sticky situation, and this will apply to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
installing the secondary spring is a band-aid not a true fix. your primary is designed to slip the belt under loads, meaning when you get in a bind the primary is designed to slip. with big tires you're always gonna slip the belt when you get off in the nasty stuff. a new primary is the only true fix.

you guys in the sand will see it too if you are in 2wd and bury the rear tires and try to put it in reverse and back out of your own ruts. most of the time you guys throttle out with the skinny pedal, but sometimes reverse is the only way out of a sticky situation, and this will apply to everyone.
I appreciate the help with this Airdam , Thank you sir!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I may be wrong but I wanna say a sport low harness will override the reverse override .. Please chime in, if I am incorrect...
 

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I may be wrong but I wanna say a sport low harness will override the reverse override .. Please chime in, if I am incorrect...
That is incorrect. Sport low only tricks the ecm into thinking it is in high while really in low range. Has nothing to do with reverse override.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I stand corrected ... It's one of those things that I thought I read on a forum somewhere .. Lol . I thought that if the harness told the ECM that it was in high when it was in low being the switch less version , that it wouldn't know it was in reverse either...and somehow overrides the reverse switch... But that would make sense and be awesome so forget that idea...lol
 
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