Stock actuator won’t hold those kind of pressures for very long.
Stock actuator won’t hold those kind of pressures for very long.The BRP actuator part number for the R and RR is the same. The difference has to be the turbo which are different. Whalen's E85 R crack pressure is listed as 12psi and the E85 RR crack pressure is 14psi.
He is only on 91. It runs great. I was only concerned for not being able to get the crack pressure down to 10 without almost running out of threads. Car hauls A$$ btwDid he find an actuator that worked with both fuels?
Gotcha. On the bench the TIAL is 11psi. At least the two I have are. That’s the lowest you can go regardless of arm length.He is only on 91. It runs great. I was only concerned for not being able to get the crack pressure down to 10 without almost running out of threads. Car hauls A$$ btw
HP/L is really what determines what "a lot" is, a 400hp X3 is like having a 2.0l make 888hp, or a 5.0l make, wait for it, 1776hp... 444hp per litre is INSANE.Oh look someone with a high hp street car that knows you can't trust pump gas, just like I said. (thank you for chiming in btw)
Maybe this isn't known amongst SxS people as much because they think 400 hp is a lot lol
There are physical limitations (like piston speed) that make it hard to scale things up. It's not like Yamaha and Suzuki cracked the code on how to make HP/L with a street bike and everyone else is just too lazy to do the same. There are also considerations of torque, vehicle weight, and power under the curve (rather than peak HP) that would make a big difference trying to use that HP/L for something practical.HP/L is really what determines what "a lot" is, a 400hp X3 is like having a 2.0l make 888hp, or a 5.0l make, wait for it, 1776hp... 444hp per litre is INSANE.
There's a reason if you want a big horsepower X3 you have to use race gas, or E85, where as a 750hp Mustang runs happily on 93...
I completely agree it doesn't scale perfectly AT ALL, but it does provide some perspective for sure.There are physical limitations (like piston speed) that make it hard to scale things up. It's not like Yamaha and Suzuki cracked the code on how to make HP/L with a street bike and everyone else is just too lazy to do the same. There are also considerations of torque, vehicle weight, and power under the curve (rather than peak HP) that would make a big difference trying to use that HP/L for something practical.
While that is a fun conversation, it's not really in line with what I first said in this thread, which is that "hotter" tunes reduce reliability, else Can Am would have loaded it to begin with. Also you still can't trust pump gas.
That's like saying the covid vaccine worked so well for so many people because most of them didn't die lol #geniusBizarre it's worked so well for so many people for 10's of thousands of KM...
However Living life knowing virtually every person you interact with can't stand you is a dangerous strategy.
BINGOstock tune requires 91 and a tuned up car needs more than 91
most have no clue the ecu is seeing knock and cutting power
just because the pump says 93 does not mean it is 93
having more octane than needed is just a safety buffer
there is no easy way to test fuel octane so its just easier to assume
your pump fuel is less than its says
buy the highest available and if that is not high enough add booster
93 tune requires 93, and dont count on pump junk to be 93
so shoot for 95 and hope that is high enough
Yup.Octane rating is the fuels resistance to detonation, the higher the octane number the MORE resistant the fuel.
Yes the computer can sense the detonation and pull timing and boost to keep the engine safe... But if the computer is pulling timing or boost then the engine is NOT making the full power the tune can produce...
Precisely how it was described to me by experts, "it's like smacking the top of the piston with a huge hammer". That's why you often see cracked ring lands or bent rods.I think a lot of people might not understand what detonation is... Detonation is spontaneous combustion occurring after the burn process has already begun, and is independent of the initial flame front. This uncontrolled event can originate from anywhere within the chamber and is usually caused by high cylinder temperatures and or pressure or lean conditions.
Detonation acts like a HAMMER hitting the piston... The worse or harder it detonates the harder it is on the piston (broken piston, ring lands, damaged crank bearings etc...)
Again this is HAPPENING BEFORE the computer has time to adjust (pull timing or boost).. Little too much and you will be rebuilding the engine... if you are tuned dont SKIMP in the octane department!
Knocking vs Detonation | |
Knocking is the making sharp sounds due to uneven combustion of fuel in the cylinder of a vehicle engine. | Detonation is the process of pre-ignition or auto-ignition of a fuel in an engine’s combustion chamber. |
Effect on the Engine | |
Knocking brings several drawbacks to the engine such as, overheating of spark plug points, erosion of the combustion chamber surface and rough, inefficient operation. | Detonation can cause abrasion, mechanical damage and overheating in engines. |
Prevention | |
Knocking can be prevented by replacing spark plugs, avoiding carbon deposit formation, using fuel with high octane rating, etc. | Denotation can be prevented by use of high-grade engine fuels, enhancing air-fuel ratio in the cylinder, reduce ignition timing and reducing the load on engine. |