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Discussion Starter #1
So far 6 of the 8 weeks I've owned this thing it's been in the shop and now first trip out after getting it back it needs more work. First the wheel broke at 4 hours it broke a front axle when it did. Set in the shop 6 weeks now I get it back and it's over heating in the 30 degree weather and something is done in the QE the front left tire never gets power the right side will spin intermitently on ice/low load situation. Nothing pops, binds or makes any noise. I'm guessing when the wheel/axle broke it messed up the QE internals. I bled the cooling system per the instructions yesterday in the single digit weather it wouldn't get to limp mode but it would get 5 bars and fan run constantly when just cruising up and down the road. Guess it's going back to the dealer which is 3 weeks behind. I've done nothing but baby this thing as I'm still breaking it in. Time to cancel the trip I had planned for my birthday and see if it's to late to get a refund on reservations. Sorry for the long rant, got so mad at work I couldn't focus needed to get some frustration out. As I'm really starting to regret my decision to purchase can am "quality"
 

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I'd be up your dealers ass demanding either a refund or a different vehicle. There's no excuse


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Man that sucks I would for sure go talk to the OWNER of the dealer you deal with and also get BRP involved they all KNOW with all the social media and marketing that goes along with it they cant AFFORD to have poor service and support.

hope you get things worked out sooner than later....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I hope so I've never had issues like this from anything I've owned. I hate to be that guy throwing a fit to get my stuff fixed. But I feel this is un acceptable
 

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There's bound to be a bad one in the batch every now and again, it just sucks that you have that one. I would do like the others above have said and talk to the owner of the dealer and see if they can give you a demo machine in the mean time or swap machines. I don't know if you bought yours our right or not but it really sucks to make payments on something that you can't drive. Unless you drive a Ford then you already know what that's like (can of worms opened)
 

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I have a couple of suggestion before you take it back to the dealer.
1. Take a flash light and really look at the radiator cores. Look and see if the core bars are almost touching each other. If they are the radiator has swelled and it's blocking air flow through the radiator. (Generally caused by a seeping head gasket putting compression into the cooling system.)
2. I'm betting there is nothing wrong with the QE. I'm going out on a limb and saying that the little piece of axle to the inside circlip has broken off. The dealer probably only replaced the outer cv that was damaged and never checked the inner axle splines. I have had both of the issues you speak of on a commander in the past. Hope this helps you out. There is also a can am dealer in Durant if that is not too far away.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There's bound to be a bad one in the batch every now and again, it just sucks that you have that one. I would do like the others above have said and talk to the owner of the dealer and see if they can give you a demo machine in the mean time or swap machines. I don't know if you bought yours our right or not but it really sucks to make payments on something that you can't drive. Unless you drive a Ford then you already know what that's like (can of worms opened)
Very true, just sucks now for the second time I'm going to watch my buddies load up for a ride I planned while I sit at home and twiddle my thumbs. I have a 6.4 ford tuned deleted lifted big tires, I've beat on with zero issues in 130k. Though it is for sale now as I know one day it will issues and very expensive ones. At the same time I own a 34 mile maverick that can't stay out of the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I have a couple of suggestion before you take it back to the dealer.
1. Take a flash light and really look at the radiator cores. Look and see if the core bars are almost touching each other. If they are the radiator has swelled and it's blocking air flow through the radiator. (Generally caused by a seeping head gasket putting compression into the cooling system.)
2. I'm betting there is nothing wrong with the QE. I'm going out on a limb and saying that the little piece of axle to the inside circlip has broken off. The dealer probably only replaced the outer cv that was damaged and never checked the inner axle splines. I have had both of the issues you speak of on a commander in the past. Hope this helps you out. There is also a can am dealer in Durant if that is not too far away.
I will look into that I checked the radiator for leaks or block age but I didn't look for that. It hadn't lost any coolant or puked even when it hit limp mode. I tried to bleed the system but never saw any air. I even let the thermostat/fan cycle twice with the front end raised, and saw no air.

The front right wheel broke and broke the outer cv. I checked when I picked it up and I got a entire new axle. Now it's the driver side not working entirely possible it could have broke as you said and I may pull it myself and check.
 

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sounds like the dealer fuked ur trip up , the can am just needed a few bugs worked out correctly
 

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There's bound to be a bad one in the batch every now and again, it just sucks that you have that one. I would do like the others above have said and talk to the owner of the dealer and see if they can give you a demo machine in the mean time or swap machines. I don't know if you bought yours our right or not but it really sucks to make payments on something that you can't drive. Unless you drive a Ford then you already know what that's like (can of worms opened)
Hey now I've owned a lot of fords with no issues lol and of course that's who signs my paycheck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The more I think about it and looked up some pics of the Visco internals. I think they didn't install my passenger side axle fully. I read on the commander forum that if you install it to the first detent the circlip is actually between the pump and side gear. Only a small piece is engaging the side gear and will break. From my thoughts after looking at the visco if this happened, when the visco locks up it would grab the passenger axle at the pump splines and spin the passenger tire. But the broken stub in the passenger side gear would just sit freely allowing the side gears and spiders to spin and it function as an open diff. This exactly what mine does it spins the right side and only if I hammer the gas. Also my driver side worked intermitenly a few times before it stoped completely I bet this was as the passenger side pluned into and out of the side gear. I could be totally wrong but those are my thoughts. Thanks badcat for the idea
 

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Yea, whats up with that statement lol.... My 6.4 runs awesome. Just had to remove a few things.
 

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Very true, just sucks now for the second time I'm going to watch my buddies load up for a ride I planned while I sit at home and twiddle my thumbs. I have a 6.4 ford tuned deleted lifted big tires, I've beat on with zero issues in 130k. Though it is for sale now as I know one day it will issues and very expensive ones. At the same time I own a 34 mile maverick that can't stay out of the shop.
make the dealer LOAN you one for your trip...so you at least get to ride some....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I got home today I grabbed the passenger axle at the inner cv. It freely plunges in and out of the diff leading me to believe the shaft did break at the inner splines
 

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Yea, whats up with that statement lol.... My 6.4 runs awesome. Just had to remove a few things.
X2 a DPF/CAT delete, CAI and tuner will make these things darn near bullet proof and produce massive power.....What tuner are you running? I have the Spartan tuner with all of the tunes up to the 350 HP tune but am afraid to try it.....:serious:
 

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X2 a DPF/CAT delete, CAI and tuner will make these things darn near bullet proof and produce massive power.....What tuner are you running? I have the Spartan tuner with all of the tunes up to the 350 HP tune but am afraid to try it.....:serious:
I had the spartan but sold it. Have H&S with a Kem card which goes to 345 tune. I run the 250 tune. I pull my toyhauler on that tune without any problems. Just gotta watch the skinny pedal and drive smart. Yep, my dpf/cat was removed and also have s&b cai. Mines an 08 and still smile when driving it.


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Discussion Starter #18
I run h&s on mine with mcc software and a few customs. Had a trans tune that locked the TC in second and shifted at 4400. Off a 4x4 launch it ran hard boost got into the mid 50's though only ran that tune a few times. 37's kill the big towing for mine
 

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I had the spartan but sold it. Have H&S with a Kem card which goes to 345 tune. I run the 250 tune. I pull my toyhauler on that tune without any problems. Just gotta watch the skinny pedal and drive smart. Yep, my dpf/cat was removed and also have s&b cai. Mines an 08 and still smile when driving it.


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I run the 210 tow tune most of the time because it shifts smoother than the higher tunes but I will run the 285 or 300 on a road trip when not towing to get the best mileage.....why did you get rid of your Spartan?
 

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I run the 210 tow tune most of the time because it shifts smoother than the higher tunes but I will run the 285 or 300 on a road trip when not towing to get the best mileage.....why did you get rid of your Spartan?
I had one of the first ones and didn't want to upgrade it. If I had, I wouldn't be able to run the Kem tunes. Didn't care for the harsh shift either. I have bars on mine now, made a Hugh difference.


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