The secondary spring in a Dalton Clutch kit for the maverick is a different version of a compression spring,...we also have a different version of a torsion spring (black/violet) that is used when called for for certain applications. These applications are right on the website:
Dalton Industries, Ltd. - ATV Products CANAM/BRP
There are some out there using the heavy torsional spring with a different primary clutch, etc...it in that case possibly the secondary faces different opposing force from the primary...a different primary.
CVT clutches run best in "balance between primary and secondary" What works on one model is not relevant to another model. Each situation is different. Sometimes all that is needed to balance things properly is one spring or the other..or both...sometimes everything needs changed.
People being people they sometimes "assume" that because someone is using it with a different type of primary that it is the answer with a totally stock primary. I have no problem selling a bunch of springs for "money in the pocket" like stated above, ...but if you want input, I can assure you that this was not the most efficient set up (using that black violet secondary by itself) ...just based on some "somewhat related" info that someone ran with a different primary clutch on there. the secondary spring in our clutch kit for most applications is a heavier compression type spring.
I love tuning, and if someone chooses to "slow up the shift" of the secondary to prop up rpm and it achieves what they want then go for it. I'm not here to tell anyone to buy or not buy anything....if you like to tune, you will experiment and we all do that. No problem with me. I do feel that for most it will rev high in mid range cruising and seem to rev and go nowhere on hardpac cruising, ..and it will slow speed a bit maybe if used with small tires on hardpac...but it is all tuning and some prefer to do it on their own. Have at it, I'm just saying it is not what we recommend.
As for the maverick, there are lots out there that claim falling rpm., our test unit did this as well..."come out at 7800, then fall down on rpm until the belt runs out of travel on the primary clutch ...then start to run up again". We address that a different way.
... there are also some shooting for very high rpm from what I read here...mostly, it seems, based on some dyno information on a piped model that showed best hp up at close to 8000 (and I'm not saying the dyno number is not correct, sometimes mods move the power peak to a different level). I can assure you that I have tested this vehicle in many different forms with different terrain and tire sizes in different types of load situations and such. a STOCK engine and exhaust will run stronger at 76-7750 than it will at 8000... it falls off anything over 7850...all stock. ...I have proven it to myself on plenty of occasions to verify. That proving was done with different calibrations of the primary and of the secondary....different styles and cuts of prototype flyweights,...different primary spring pressures ...different types and pressures of secondary springs and combinations of all of the above. Some people think "more rpm is better" or as high as the rev limit will allow will always be most power, but sometimes slowing the up shift ...so it will rev at a higher rpm than where it makes best hp is not the best thing either. Just like a stick shift in a drag car...shift it at the right sweet spot, there is no sense to hold it too long in each gear and rev too high. Use the best part of the power curve.
I'm not sure if it had been mentioned yet on here, but brp does have the new bulletin out last week, ...and parts are available now for the updated new primary stud and nut/ set screw configuration to hold the primary on instead of a primary bolt.
This bulletin was issued last Friday to North American Can Am dealers...and it comes with the procedures and the can am parts kit to change the primary bolt assembly to the new stuff.
...as for us selling "big kits for money in the pocket comment"...have a look at some of our kits and recommendations for ..say..500 Outlander, for many Kawaski models where we were the ones who said you do not need to buy flyweights...or the 800 Polaris atv's...or the use of only one spring in a Yamaha rhino....maybe look at our website and see what we recommend for a Renegade 1000 ATV with stock 25" tires ! (If staying with light stock 25" we say leave it alone)...
thus the reason my visit here will probably be of short duration.
We are easy to get a hold of, however, right on our website via email "contact us" is the best way.
