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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy All,

While in Arizona, last winter I had a top, drivers side, ball joint break, not a stock ball joint one of the aftermarket supposedly strong ones. Anyway, this happened just as I was starting to drive the rig up the ramps and onto the back of my truck, if it had happened while on the trail 50 miles from where we staged I honestly don't how we would have recovered the rig without a very VERY expensive tow.

Which leads me to this question, does anyone know of a small ball joint tool that will work with the style of ball joints used on the X3? "Tusk" makes a small trail packable tool that works on the type of ball joints that are used on the Polaris, but I can't find anything like this that will work on the X3 type ball joint.

Here's a video of the Tusk tool being used.

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If anyone knows of where to get such a tool that will work with the X3 type ball joint, PLEASE let me and all the other X3 owners know how to get it. There are a ton of large, cumbersome ball joint tools out there but they are pretty impratical for trail use. THANKS for any help you can offer.

Dave
 

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I've never had ball joint issues (knock on wood). Can't the Tusk one work on an X3?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Howdy bigred1xxc,

If you watch the video I posted, it shows the type of ball joint used on the X3, and clearly states that the Tusk tool will NOT work on that type of ball joint. I am just taking their word for it. The Tusk tool is small, lightweight and appears easy to use, if it would work on the X3 type ball joint I would buy it in a heart beat.

It took over two hours to get my X3 onto my truck and the ball joint snapped about 3 feet from the ramp, if had broken on the trail I don't have a clue how we would have gotten it back. The trail was up and down in and out of steep banked gullies and washes, over rocks, dragging it out even if one of the other rigs could have done it would have resulted in thousands of dollars of damage to my X3.

There really is no easy field fix for this type of breakdown. If you carried a spare ball joint and had the tool to remove the broken one and install the new one it's really not that big of a deal. I just hate to carry a 20 pound tool that takes up the space that a regular ball joint tools does.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All you need is a BFH And some muscle to swing it.
Howdy Megadesertdiesel,

I know that, try doing it in the middle of nowhere when you can properly support the A-Arm, or don't want to take the whole A-Arm assembly off, dealing with a gusset kit, winch mount etc. The proper tool such as the Tusk tool if it would work on the X3 type ball joint would make this type of repair fairly painless even in the field.

Dave
 

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Howdy Megadesertdiesel,

I know that, try doing it in the middle of nowhere when you can properly support the A-Arm, or don't want to take the whole A-Arm assembly off, dealing with a gusset kit, winch mount etc. The proper tool such as the Tusk tool if it would work on the X3 type ball joint would make this type of repair fairly painless even in the field.

Dave
We have replaced ball joints in the desert and the dunes with just a hammer. YOu have to use your noggin when doing field repairs. Support the arm or spindle by setting it on a wheel and tore you took off or tie it to the frame with a ratchet strap. When you over think things you will end up carrying more chit than you need and just weighing the car down for no reason. If you are hell bent on a tool, just make one out of a large socket and some ingenuity with a welding machine.
 

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I have that ball joint press and it won't work on OEM ball joints. If you're worried about breaking a ball joint then swap to user serviceable joints that have the ability to remove the center pin without pressing out the joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have that ball joint press and it won't work on OEM ball joints. If you're worried about breaking a ball joint then swap to user serviceable joints that have the ability to remove the center pin without pressing out the joint.
Howdy Cascade Crush,

I have replaced the stock ball joints with ball joints such as those you wrote of, "LM UTV" joints are on the rig and it is one of them that broke. Thanks for mentioning that the center pin-stud, the part that broke is replaceable, if a person were to carry a spare center pin-stud, that would be easy to replace in the field without the use of special tools.

I am going to contact the folks who sell and warranty this ball joint and see if they will sell the center pin-stud separately. If the center pin-stud can be bought separately it could be used to make a field repair and the broken center pin-stud then sent back to them to be covered by warranty. If the folks at LM UTV, will sell and warranty their ball joint in this manner it would solve the problem easily.

Dave
 

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If they wont sell the center pin just but the whole assembly and if needed install the center pin then send the whole unit back for warranty
 
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The Tusk press will work with the LMUTV if you disassemble the joint and just press in the body by itself. The press is not designed for bigger utv joints and if there's too much interference in the arm fit you'll break the press.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If they wont sell the center pin just but the whole assembly and if needed install the center pin then send the whole unit back for warranty
Howdy Desertdog01,

Your idea will work but it's expensive, that said a lot cheaper then having to have the rig recovered from the middle of nowhere. If they won't sell just the pin-stud I will probably buy a spare set of joints a top and a bottom, take my word on this you DON'T ever want to deal with this miles from camp in rough terrain.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The Tusk press will work with the LMUTV if you disassemble the joint and just press in the body by itself. The press is not designed for bigger utv joints and if there's too much interference in the arm fit you'll break the press.
Howdy Cascade Crush,

THANK YOU, that is very valuable information. When we got back to camp I used a BIG hammer and some sockets to BEAT the broken joint out and replaced it with a stock joint so that I could continue riding before leaving from Arizona and heading back to Washington.

I have replaced ball joints in the past using a hammer and sockets but NEVER had to deal with one that was so hard to press out or in, I had to end up using a propane touch to heat the A-Arm to get the stock replacement joint in and it was still a bitch to do. That being the case if it is "NORMAL" for Can Am ball joints to be that hard to press in or out, if so even taking the joint apart to use the Tusk tool might not work.

As the after market ball joints are made of pieces that are screwed together and DON'T depend on a cir-clip to secure them in place perhaps a person could hone a few thousands out of the bore the ball joint presses into making the job easier to do but NOT lose any structural integrity. Something to think about, suggestions pro or con welcomed on this idea.

Dave
 

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There's a dremel bit that looks like 50 squares of sandpaper sticking out in a circle that you could use to clear out the socket in the arm. Probably a lot less work than turn a balljoint body.
 

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We have replaced ball joints in the desert and the dunes with just a hammer. YOu have to use your noggin when doing field repairs. Support the arm or spindle by setting it on a wheel and tore you took off or tie it to the frame with a ratchet strap. When you over think things you will end up carrying more chit than you need and just weighing the car down for no reason. If you are hell bent on a tool, just make one out of a large socket and some ingenuity with a welding machine.
So whats the trick to getting the lower balljoint removed while on the car with only heat and a BFH? Top A-arm is easy to stabilize and get some good blows on but that lower is the real booger.
 

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So whats the trick to getting the lower balljoint removed while on the car with only heat and a BFH? Top A-arm is easy to stabilize and get some good blows on but that lower is the real booger.
Set the arm on a hard surface ie: log, spare wheel, suspended from straps off the frame.

now for the big secret,











Remove the ball joints at home in your garage and clearance the cup a little so you don’t need a press. Flapper wheel on an end grinder or drill motor works well. Don’t go too crazy though.


And for extra credit points, buy three piece ball joints and keep spare parts and the large wrenches to take them apart and replace the broken piece.

It’s all about knowing your machine and preparation.
 

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I have the Keller ball joints and I carry and extra upper and lower pin in the car. Just need to remember a big ass socket or crescent wrench in order to replace it if necessary.
 

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I’m in the middle of installing Kellers. Stock balljoints are shot. Tops were easy to stabilize and knock out. Bottoms I’m still struggling with how to get out. F6DAAC46-3DBE-404D-869F-F3398184FC4B.jpeg
 

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I can't imagine the need to carry a ball joint tool.... :unsure:
If you're worried about that, there are many other things I would put ahead of it. That goes to might as well have parts/tool chase truck follow you.
 
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