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Discussion Starter #1
So I still don't have the rear suspension dialed in. I was talking to a friend of mine, and he suggested that I disconnect the swaybar. I know that some people prefer the swaybar on, and some people like the way it feels and handles without one. On my Rhino, which had air shocks, I tried it both ways and I liked it much better with the swaybar. Since the Mavrick has a stiffer suspension than I'm used to, I figured I'll give it a try. I didn't want to just disconnect one side, because it looks like as you're articulating that side would wind up hitting one of the a arms. So I tried to take off the links. The bolt with a 15mm head was easy. But the other end is a tapered ball joint type, and it didn't want to come loose. I tried to get a mini sledge hammer up in there, and I got some decent hits on it, but just couldn't hit it hard enough to break it loose. So I decided to remove the whole thing. I used an impact and a 1 1/16 inch socket to remove the big nut on either end of the swaybar. I pulled it out and weighed it. The thing weighs 22.5 pounds! Sure hope it rides nice without it, because I do not want to put that weight back in there. I'm going riding on Saturday and
I'll let you know how it feels.
 

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Ya, it might suffer like the wildcat with out the swaybar. I took mine off my LT Rhino and loved it. Took it off my Ford Raptor and love it. So who knows, on both cases the suspension was set up very stiff.
 

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I think you will like it in the technical stuff were it can articulate more and over off camber whoops. On high speed cornering you might get too much body roll. I took the sway bar off my rhino when I went to long travel and it was great.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It does ride smoother. I still have it off. But, the steering feels weird. I'm still undecided if ill leave it off. It does dune just fine without it. It's in the desert that it feels weird. I think that what it really needs is a weaker sway bar.
 

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I turned the sway bar on my Commander down to 3/" from 7/8" in my Lathe and it was a nice compromise between body roll and the bouncing around I get on the trails. The only problem is I broke it, probably due to the additional leverage from the LT and the small radius's at each end. They need to be as large as you can make them. Something you might want to consider on the Mav. For now I would increase the shock preload to counteract some of the body roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks ody. I have a lathe, and thought about doing that, but was thinking it might break. Now you've confirmed it. Where did it break? In the center, or near the end?
 

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Most sway bars are heat treated so if you cut it on a lathe you ruin it. I don't know if that's the case with the factory bar or not.
 

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Thanks ody. I have a lathe, and thought about doing that, but was thinking it might break. Now you've confirmed it. Where did it break? In the center, or near the end?

It broke right at the base of the radius up to the splines. Thats why when you cut it make as large of radius possible. Mine were just too small. Also keep in mind the bar was designed for stock "X" travel and not LT so it gets a whole lot more twist. The Mav will get the same amount of twist so you have a better shot at it not breaking.
 

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Most sway bars are heat treated so if you cut it on a lathe you ruin it. I don't know if that's the case with the factory bar or not.
Is that a guess or a fact? I would think if they were heat treated then the steel would not have the same twist properties thru out the diameter?
 

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That's a fact. We run PAC Racing sway bars on a lot of stuff and if you turn them down after heat treat they'll break.
 

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But that's a high end sway bar. Can Am most likely didnt do it for money's sake. I would be careful with it, or if you're going to turn it be aware that you may end up buying a new bar.
 

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I took mine off today and lifted up the suspension a lot. I like how it flexes now but not being able to whip it around when I want sucks. I did go fast a couple of times, its controllable but would keep it off if I stayed in the dunes. I'm a mud rider kind of person so it will prob stay off.
 

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So Steve, you have kept your's off and still like it better?
 

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When I had my commander I put the TCB LT on it which removed the sway bars. At first I hated it, I would go into a turn and it would dive into the outer corner. I called Elka and they suggested adjusting the low compression and tightening the spring a turn at a time. After an hour or two of messing around with the low compression and going 3 full turns on the springs it cornered like a champ.

The commander had two sway bars though. It had had the front and the rear which with the Todds Custom Billet Long Travel it removed both.
 
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