Can-Am Maverick Forum banner

21 - 40 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Acquired this ^^^^^ from a friend AFTER I got my tie rods swapped out. Thought it might be useful for getting wheels aligned, per the manual. Sorry it's a little hard to read...scanned document.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
Acquired this ^^^^^ from a friend AFTER I got my tie rods swapped out. Thought it might be useful for getting wheels aligned, per the manual. Sorry it's a little hard to read...scanned document.
Thanks for sharing SoCalMav...If anyone has trouble reading it, let me know…I have high res .jpeg copies I can upload as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
correct...the inner (clevis) is connected to a ball and socket so she nit is spinning, it is not threading in or out....it is just spinning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
So when you go to replace the tie rod itself you just screw it on to the clevis as far as you want essentially(minimum of an inch of thread in the rod) and then lock the jam nut and do your alignment via the outer tie rod end? I've done string alignment in cars with rack and pinion but you don't have to worry about the inner ball socket similar to this I'm gathering?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,535 Posts
remove old rod screw on new one like u said then screw on outer tie rod then install into spindle then hold the inner nut on steering rack joint and twist the whole rod with both joints connected to set alignment then tighten both jam nuts at end and ur set
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
Not to play Devil's advocate here but wouldn't that be actually extending both on the inner and outer? Per the instructions listed above you just adjust the outer while the whole inner clevis spins... Correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,535 Posts
when its all connected and u spin the tie rod one way it pulls together spin other way its spreads it apart
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
when its all connected and u spin the tie rod one way it pulls together spin other way its spreads it apart
That would be true if you have both ends of the tie rod loose. Per the instructions its stating to leave the inboard jam nut alone and simply spring the tie rod effectively loosening the outer. Are you threading the new rod on a certain amount of turns and then doing it with both jam nuts loose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
That would be true if you have both ends of the tie rod loose. Per the instructions its stating to leave the inboard jam nut alone and simply spring the tie rod effectively loosening the outer. Are you threading the new rod on a certain amount of turns and then doing it with both jam nuts loose?
It depends on which tie rods you have. So for the stock tie rods and the aftermarket ones where you are only replacing the rod, the rod is threaded the same on both ends. so if you loosen both locking nuts and rotate the rod, it is only going to move the rod in on one end and out on the other end. This good if you want to center up the rod so you have an equal amount of threads on each end but it doesn't do anything as far as toe in/out adjustment. To do this, simply lock the inner lock nut to the tie rod and loosen the outer lock nut and spin the rod in or out to adjust toe in/out as needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrtosh

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
That's what I was looking for lol. So in essence it doesn't really matter how far it's threaded on the rack side(as long as there's adequate depth of threads)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
That's what I was looking for lol. So in essence it doesn't really matter how far it's threaded on the rack side(as long as there's adequate depth of threads)?
In theory yes.....but if you have a lot of threads sticking out on the outer end you might want to loosen both lock nuts and recenter the tie rod on the rod ends.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
you bet...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts

·
Vendor
Joined
·
6,221 Posts
My replacement tie rods are just want they same. They're a 1" 6061 solid replacement of the weak factory pieces. A bolt on item that simple to replace.
The race tie rods are a full replacement. You unthread it off the factory inner and thread on the new one. It will require drilling out the spindle to 1/2" from 12mm. It includes a 1.25" solid 6061 tie rod and a 5/8 FK rod end. The biggest thing with this is they will come with high misalignment spacers that take the bump steer out of the steering. These as of this week will get sent out with a tab to weld to spindle to put the joint in double shear just like I've been running on my race rig. This is a bad picture but you can see the setup
 
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Top