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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need some insight on here, at this point I am fed up with my machine and how much money i've spent on trying to get this thing running great again. Its a 2016 Maverick XC 1000r.... So here goes....

The machine will start up idle and run fine, but after a minute or two it will kick on the CEL and will follow by shutting off the rear cylinder and going into LIMP HOME MODE. If I run the machine down the road above idle speed the check engine light will go away and stay off until it idles again. There has been a few times where it has came on while i was driving but shut right back off. Also, if I cycle the key when this happens, the limp home message goes away and the check engine light stays on for a few minutes and goes away as well.

Things I have done: Swapped coils with a perfectly running Maverick with no change, unplugged the negative battery terminal for 2 minutes, replaced both spark plugs gapped to .035" per the manual, replaced the #2 cylinder spark plug wire and boot, re-sealed the #2 cylinder intake port at the engine, adjusted the valves on both cylinders and cleaned both injectors.

Things I think it might be but im not sure: possible bad bank #2 o2 Sensor, CVTech Clutch (without the weight installed from CVTech), possible computer problem?

I do have an aftermarket Two Brothers Slip-On exhaust and CVTech Primary clutch with no tuning done to the stock computer. The machine ran fine like this for more than 8 months.

Anything at this point would be helpful. I have always worked on my own machines and always plan to... but this.. this has me stumped. I really don't want to take this thing to the dealer. Thanks in advance.
 

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T-MAP sensor maybe.
 

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If I remember correctly there was a guy who had a similar problem I think where one of the wiring harness plugs on side of the engine was kind of tight so it would lose connection and do weird stuff. Check to see if your Harness is pulled tight and causing a bad connection or even chaffing through a wire.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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302 is misfire cyl 2
need to clear the code
use candoo or take it to the stealer
check #2 coil connector for loose wire or almost broken wire
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I've heard of all kinds of things with these machines. I'm ready to get this thing ripping again!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I pulled the sensor out in the intake tube and it was coated with the oil from the pre-filter that can am puts in these. Not sure if this will help, but it's been raining here in Missouri and I wont get to go test it for a few days.
I plan on looking into this tonight and will get back with you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, the sensor in the intake didn't change a thing. I guess I've got a lemon somewhere after all. I've decided to take the machine into Can-Am to get diagnosed and see what they find out. I'll keep everyone posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Going to pick up the machine today. The dealer determined the ECU is going bad after swapping injectors front to back and checking all the wiring to the computer. The ECU was sending an intermittent ground to the injector on the #2 cylinder. Looks like i'll be dumping about 530$ for a new one. Got my ride back though!:big smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, its been a while since I've been on here since I've been dealing with these guys. So the dealer installed a new computer, put in two new spark plugs, checked the compression (Which was more than good) and adjusted the valves and the machine still misfired on the rear cylinder. They then replaced the rear cylinder injector and still nothing. I'm so mad now. This will be $1600 in work (including what I had done) and still don't have a good running machine. ANY help at this point is appreciated.
 

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injector....why not the coil?
injector not likely to throw a misfire code
 

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Discussion Starter #13
injector....why not the coil?
injector not likely to throw a misfire code
The coil and #2 spark plug wire has already been swapped. The dealer keeps bringing up belts and misfires. Is it really that common to have a belt cause the same cylinder to misfire and go into LIMP HOME MODE. I have installed a CVTech Primary with the weight removed on the back of the clutch. The problem is the machine ran fine without the weight for a year or more. I don't know what else to do at this point.
 

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The coil and #2 spark plug wire has already been swapped. The dealer keeps bringing up belts and misfires. Is it really that common to have a belt cause the same cylinder to misfire and go into LIMP HOME MODE. I have installed a CVTech Primary with the weight removed on the back of the clutch. The problem is the machine ran fine without the weight for a year or more. I don't know what else to do at this point.
Any resolution?
 

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Negative. The two dealers I took it to just wanted to keep throwing parts at it until it was fixed. I just decided to upgrade and sold it that day.
Really sorry to hear but I find that truly ridiculous as I did with mine. Incompetent dealer service and BRP support.

I had the same per say where the originating dealer wasted over $4500 worth of my extended warranty's money, over 6 weeks of my time, missed events, opportunities and family gatherings, and 2 hours of travel 3 times in the shop throwing different parts at it with no idea or resolve and kept continuing going down the wrong path by wanting next to replace the entire wiring harness and more that wouldn't have fixed it. I was so disappointed and literally pissed, I did everything to hold my cool. They had no clue how to diagnose nor with any experienced help to the dealer from BRP.

I did have a BRP engineer catch a post on a different social media platform who felt bad and reached out to personally help as well as he conferred with other BRP engineers who spent several hours over the phone and messenger with from Canada. In turn helped me point to the right direction along with talking to the head claims manager of the warranty company who was tech savvy. We all ended up pointing it to the turbo wastegate area.

Took it to a different dealer who had an ex Keith Black engine builder and HP hobbyist as their head mechanic.
Fortunately I was able to talk to him for almost an hour in person beforehand found the issues within 30 minutes of work and $60 in parts replacing a wastegate actuator solenoid.

So far after about a tank of gas and 100 miles it's been running fine (knock on wood... seriously) :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Really sorry to hear but I find that truly ridiculous as I did with mine. Incompetent dealer service and BRP support.

I had the same per say where the originating dealer wasted over $4500 worth of my extended warranty's money, over 6 weeks of my time, missed events, opportunities and family gatherings, and 2 hours of travel 3 times in the shop throwing different parts at it with no idea or resolve and kept continuing going down the wrong path by wanting next to replace the entire wiring harness and more that wouldn't have fixed it. I was so disappointed and literally pissed, I did everything to hold my cool. They had no clue how to diagnose nor with any experienced help to the dealer from BRP.

I did have a BRP engineer catch a post on a different social media platform who felt bad and reached out to personally help as well as he conferred with other BRP engineers who spent several hours over the phone and messenger with from Canada. In turn helped me point to the right direction along with talking to the head claims manager of the warranty company who was tech savvy. We all ended up pointing it to the turbo wastegate area.

Took it to a different dealer who had an ex Keith Black engine builder and HP hobbyist as their head mechanic.
Fortunately I was able to talk to him for almost an hour in person beforehand found the issues within 30 minutes of work and $60 in parts replacing a wastegate actuator solenoid.

So far after about a tank of gas and 100 miles it's been running fine (knock on wood... seriously) :rolleyes:
It blows my mind. They also had to call Can Am and discuss what the problems could be, but it seemed like every time they did they wanted to add new parts. I think I spent almost $1400 at the dealer trying to fix it. They replaced the ECU, Ignition Coil Packs, Spark Plugs and Wires, Pick-up Sensor, Cleaned the MAP sensor, Checked compression and timing and adjusted the valves. Some of that I did myself and the dealer checked. And nothing. Still ran the exact same way, limp mode 24/7 no matter what.
 

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It blows my mind. They also had to call Can Am and discuss what the problems could be, but it seemed like every time they did they wanted to add new parts. I think I spent almost $1400 at the dealer trying to fix it. They replaced the ECU, Ignition Coil Packs, Spark Plugs and Wires, Pick-up Sensor, Cleaned the MAP sensor, Checked compression and timing and adjusted the valves. Some of that I did myself and the dealer checked. And nothing. Still ran the exact same way, limp mode 24/7 no matter what.
That's whats so frustrating, BRP has no means to directly pinpoint the issue through their proprietary BUDS system.

Way too many variables which throw the same codes/limp mode.
And most dealerships do not have service techs who know how to diagnose Can Am issues.

Then on top of it, BRP dealer service reps who only communicate through email are clueless and scripted. They start with throwing expensive parts one by one at the issue with no idea if it will work. I doubt if they talked with them direct.

The ones who benefit and profit is BRP and dealer so they have no reason to change the process. The customer and warranty companies get screwed.

IMO they should either cover the bill or take off on ALL parts that doesn't cure the problem.
Why should the customer and warranty company take the hit for their inadequacy.

It may well be labeled as a scam!
 

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the sure fix is simple
turn off misfire detection using pv3
you should keep all the old parts, ecu and what ever you paid for
and ride it ..... good luck getting the lemon law buy back
only your attorney will make out going that route
 
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