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Discussion Starter #1
A parts guy at the dealer says I need spring washers (250200147) to put the new knuckles and bearings on, but I don’t see em in the factory service manual.

In the service manual, I see a rear knuckle(706001960), wheel bearings (293350129) and a retaining or circlip (293370102) to hold the bearing in.

Where does the $12 Spring Washer go?


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Discussion Starter #3
It’s goes right before axle nut. It’s not really a Spring washer it more beveled I would say. Suppose to keep tension on everything. It goes beveled side out
Thanks - I’ll order me a FEW. Parts guy says they’re one-time use. Not sure if I have em with the aftermarket knuckles or not - never noticed em anyway.


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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I’ve reused several times with no issues and so has everyone else I know. I don’t think I know anyone that has replaced them. Didn’t know the one time use lol


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Good to know! Have you swapped the radial joints/bushings (706002317) on the knuckles before?

Dealer mechanic couldn’t do it - gave up...put my wheels back on and said he didn’t know how to get em into the knuckles. Messed up two TRYING.

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Good to know! Have you swapped the radial joints/bushings (706002317) on the knuckles before?

Dealer mechanic couldn’t do it - gave up...put my wheels back on and said he didn’t know how to get em into the knuckles. Messed up two TRYING.

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Dog, installing the radial joints in the rear knuckles is a pin in the a... If you don't get them in perfectly straight they will bind up in the knuckle and you will ruin them. I was not able to do it on a shop press because there are no good flat surfaces to work from. I ended up making a tool that used a hole saw with the teeth removed a long 12 mm bolt, nut and thick steel washer to draw the radial joint into the knuckle. I recently replaced eight of them, so I got good at doing them, but I still hate them. The hole saw was just the right size to capture the outer edge of the radial joint without destroying the rubber boot. I'd run the bolt through the hole saw, through the joint and then though the knuckle with a thick steel washer on the other side followed by a nut on the bolt and slowly draw the joint into the spindle. If it starts getting difficult to draw it in too soon, stop and start over, you don't have the joint straight with the bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
THANKS - gonna go get me a hole saw tomorrow. 1 3/16”?

Thinking about putting the joints in the freezer for a while too - MAYBE they’ll go in easier.


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Freezer is generally a good idea


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The domed washer, or Belleville washer, doesn't show as a one time use item in the manual. Install with the dome side out toward the nut. I'm surprised you didn't have these even with your aftermarket knuckles. They go between the main wheel nut and the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The domed washer, or Belleville washer, doesn't show as a one time use item in the manual. Install with the dome side out toward the nut. I'm surprised you didn't have these even with your aftermarket knuckles. They go between the main wheel nut and the hub.
Probably has em on it - i get confused easily, especially talking to the parts counter guys when they’re rattling off part names.

What I think is a retaining clip, they call a circlip...


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I’ve reused several times with no issues and so has everyone else I know. I don’t think I know anyone that has replaced them. Didn’t know the one time use lol


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Oem rear knuckles WILL FAIL eventually. Most likely at toe link attachment. Such a common failure now that CAN AM offers a kit to reinforce failure point.
still cast aluminum single shear garbage. Opt for ZRP billet double shear rear knuckles and forget about it. 😀
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Oem rear knuckles WILL FAIL eventually. Most likely at toe link attachment. Such a common failure now that CAN AM offers a kit to reinforce failure point.
still cast aluminum single shear garbage. Opt for ZRP billet double shear rear knuckles and forget about it.
TRUE enough and haven’t tried ZRP, but...my experience with durability is kinda the opposite - aftermarket knuckles (NOT ZRP) DID solve the toe link issue, but failed to go the distance the OEM ones did.

Piled up a couple sets of expensive aftermarket knuckles in a short timeframe - less than a year.



Bearing and bushing slots got wallowed out - haven’t had THAT issue with OEM.

At the price of the ZRP ones, I doubt I’ll roll the dice to find out how long they’ll go.

I DO know the FRONT OEM knuckles have about 37,000 trouble-free miles with three sets of bearings - gonna swap em before a fourth set goes on, just because I can and they’re inexpensive.



Anyway, we’ll see how far these new REAR OEM knuckles go with the Lonestar Racing toe link gussets - I’d wager they’ll last longer than the aftermarket ones, and IF they don’t, I’ve got extras, with bearings and bushings ($300/wheel) already pressed in, in the rear tool box .


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TRUE enough and haven’t tried ZRP, but...my experience with durability is kinda the opposite - aftermarket knuckles (NOT ZRP) DID solve the toe link issue, but failed to go the distance the OEM ones did.

Piled up a couple sets of expensive aftermarket knuckles in a short timeframe - less than a year.



Bearing and bushing slots got wallowed out - haven’t had THAT issue with OEM.

At the price of the ZRP ones, I doubt I’ll roll the dice to find out how long they’ll go.

I DO know the FRONT OEM knuckles have about 37,000 trouble-free miles with three sets of bearings - gonna swap em before a fourth set goes on, just because I can and they’re inexpensive.



Anyway, we’ll see how far these new REAR OEM knuckles go with the Lonestar Racing toe link gussets - I’d wager they’ll last longer than the aftermarket ones, and IF they don’t, I’ve got extras, with bearings and bushings ($300/wheel) already pressed in, in the rear tool box .


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Thanks for the response. According to ZRP their knuckles WILL NOT FAIL. if they do, they claim they will warrant. ZRP uses them on their championship chasing race team and has not had one failure. ZRP has upgraded the entire knuckle and double sheared it everywhere This is one of the first upgrades ZRP developed after continued failures on the race track. This includes destroying the lonestar, assault and shock therapy fixes.
The $100. lonestar and Assault gusset clamp, does address and help toe link issue, however it is a bandaid and will eventually fail. Shock therapy also makes a fix which I believe is a better solution than lonestar clamp. With Shock Therapy, The toe link on the knuckle is drilled out and reinforced with better hardware
Lastly, it’s not really about $$$ for a fix. I’m more about knowing I’m not going to break down in the middle of nowhere. If your toe link fails on a trail, you better be able to fix it where it stands because if that toe link bolt breaks, your rear wheel will toe out to about 45 degrees and you ain’t going anywhere. I know. It happened to me. Fortunately I was close to pavement and was able to go get my trailer. I even had to winch it on the trailer!
For me, it’s not worth the gamble, plus those billet knuckles look cool 😎
 

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Discussion Starter #14
...I’m more about knowing I’m not going to break down in the middle of nowhere. If your toe link fails on a trail, you better be able to fix it where it stands because if that toe link bolt breaks, your rear wheel will toe out to about 45 degrees and you ain’t going anywhere...
Yep, that’s the goal, but it WAS the aftermarket ones that left me stranded, TWICE - thousands of miles away from home.

Got the OEM ones back on AND got spare knuckles with bearings onboard for all four corners along with extra nuts, bolts, and washers.

Even got a couple extra pre-assembled drive plates onboard.

And spare axles.

SHOULD be good to go - gonna find out SOON .


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Thanks for the response. According to ZRP their knuckles WILL NOT FAIL. if they do, they claim they will warrant. ZRP uses them on their championship chasing race team and has not had one failure. ZRP has upgraded the entire knuckle and double sheared it everywhere This is one of the first upgrades ZRP developed after continued failures on the race track. This includes destroying the lonestar, assault and shock therapy fixes.
The $100. lonestar and Assault gusset clamp, does address and help toe link issue, however it is a bandaid and will eventually fail. Shock therapy also makes a fix which I believe is a better solution than lonestar clamp. With Shock Therapy, The toe link on the knuckle is drilled out and reinforced with better hardware
Lastly, it’s not really about $$$ for a fix. I’m more about knowing I’m not going to break down in the middle of nowhere. If your toe link fails on a trail, you better be able to fix it where it stands because if that toe link bolt breaks, your rear wheel will toe out to about 45 degrees and you ain’t going anywhere. I know. It happened to me. Fortunately I was close to pavement and was able to go get my trailer. I even had to winch it on the trailer!
For me, it’s not worth the gamble, plus those billet knuckles look cool 😎
In one of ST's live videos they showed a set of ZRP rear knuckles that were modified to eliminate the bearing retainer snap ring. My understanding is race teams still see knuckle failures at the retaining ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
In one of ST's live videos they showed a set of ZRP rear knuckles that were modified to eliminate the bearing retainer snap ring. My understanding is race teams still see knuckle failures at the retaining ring.
Had the OEM knuckles machined where the ring goes - never had that fail, but don’t wanna start now .


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If you were successive with OEM, then stick with it. You have more miles than anyone I know on a X3 and you know what last for your type of riding and what does not last.

I have been running the assault rear toe link kit for over 6,000 miles. I periodically check to make sure the bolt is tight, which it always seems to be.

I did see the rear toe link bolt break on a X3 Max this weekend in Glamis. Car had less than 1,000 miles on it. The bolt loosened up and snapped. You could see the thread marks in the hole.
 

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If you were successive with OEM, then stick with it. You have more miles than anyone I know on a X3 and you know what last for your type of riding and what does not last.

I have been running the assault rear toe link kit for over 6,000 miles. I periodically check to make sure the bolt is tight, which it always seems to be.

I did see the rear toe link bolt break on a X3 Max this weekend in Glamis. Car had less than 1,000 miles on it. The bolt loosened up and snapped. You could see the thread marks in the hole.
Yeah, and the fact that he does little to no preventative maintenance probably had something to do with it, LOL!
 

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Yep, that’s the goal, but it WAS the aftermarket ones that left me stranded, TWICE - thousands of miles away from home.

Got the OEM ones back on AND got spare knuckles with bearings onboard for all four corners along with extra nuts, bolts, and washers.

Even got a couple extra pre-assembled drive plates onboard.

And spare axles.

SHOULD be good to go - gonna find out SOON .


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Which aftermarket knuckles did you experience failure?
 

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@Desert Dog is there any possibility that those Hess rear knuckles could be machined and fitted with a sleeve where the bearing pockets wallowed out? Got any pics?
 
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