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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 X3 XRS 2 seater, I'm trying to adjust the suspension so it's a little more comfortable when going through the choppy stuff at slower speeds. I've completely softened high and low speed dampening, front and rear. I adjusted the rear crossover up about an inch. It still rattles our teeth. Should I adjust the rebound? Any help will be appreciated or point me in the right direction please, thanks.
 

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I have a 2018 X3 XRS 2 seater, I'm trying to adjust the suspension so it's a little more comfortable when going through the choppy stuff at slower speeds. I've completely softened high and low speed dampening, front and rear. I adjusted the rear crossover up about an inch. It still rattles our teeth. Should I adjust the rebound? Any help will be appreciated or point me in the right direction please, thanks.
If you haven't adjusted the preload yet your are riding up against the internal bypass "bump stop". You need to raise your car. You're safe to add at least 2" all the way around to start out with.

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Open the large nut all the way, then maybe a half turn to full turn back in. then open the center bypass screw (flat blade) all the way and put 1-2 turns back in. this will soften the ride greatly, but it will still be harsh in the chop till you get the bypass tubes redone.

With stock tires mine sits about 16" when measure to the skid by the axles and in the front at the fire wall. between 2 in the car and 100 lbs worth of gear my car sits just right.
 

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Duke, YES.... OPEN the rebound adjuster makes a Huge Difference, that is the first adjuster you should have played with. It is NOT really a rebound adjuster alone. If you know anything about the way a shock absorber functions - it's an open bleed right through the shock shaft and doesn't have a "One Way Check Valve" so the rebound adjuster flows oil both directions past the piston. The shock piston on the compression side of the shim stack also has a bleed shim that basically does the same thing. But by opening the rebound it will soften the compression and the rebound and make the wheels move easier. Hence making it more plush! Absolutely the Low Speed and Hi Speed adjusters also make the valving and ride softer but the rebound adjuster will make a bigger change.

I also suggest moving the Front crossover at least 1 1/4" to 1 1/2' above the mainspring plastic slider and you should move the rear crossovers "UP" as well. Move them 2 1/2" above the Mainspring Slider. You Can NOT move the crossover too high or else you will put your tender spring into coil bind. That’s a whole lesson in itself. I hope that explains your question.

The next thing that causes the harsh ride is your tires. I personally run my 30" Big Horn tires at 10psi. If you have 30" or 32" desert tires (Most of them are Light Truck) tires and have a way more stronger sidewalls, hence a stiffer ride and this also makes the Chop Way Worse! I run my 32" MTR tires with Kevlar sidewalls at 8psi.

Another issue causing the choppy ride is your ride height. Adjust your preload to get somewhere between 15 1/2" to 16" under the skid plates right below the CV Boots (Axle Centerline), this will help even more.

The Major issue causing the rough ride in small chop, cross chop during the big weekends at the sand dunes, washboard and embedded rock trails is there are bleed holes in the inner bypass tubes and these bleed holes are the real issue for ride compliance. You can’t change these holes or their location, that is my expertise at UTV Shocks. And really that is the major issue that is what we focused on with our shock mods including welding up some stock bleed holes that in my opinion are in the wrong place and adding more bleed holes in the correct locations. We also add more compression side shims and increase the Bump Zone! We next give you the option to change the springs and spring rates to fit your riding style and to carry the load better. All of this will make your CanAm X3 XRS a whole new car.

Gary
 

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I have my high/low speed full open rebound front at 9 clicks rear at 7 clicks from full open. Ride height 16 inches loaded, front cross over 2 inches and the rear at 3.5 inches from the slider. It will make a world of difference. I like to set my ride height loaded. On a side note after a year and adjusting the rear ride height 5 times i will be replacing the middle rear spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So i put the rebound 5 clicks front 4 clicks rear, it's much better through the low speed chop. Wouldn't recommend it for high speed and/or whoops though.
 

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So i put the rebound 5 clicks front 4 clicks rear, it's much better through the low speed chop. Wouldn't recommend it for high speed and/or whoops though.
I disagree. The more rebound you have, the easier it is to get through whoops..
 

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DukeX3 what are your cross over settings ? When you go into a corner hard or slow down fast do you feel the car shimmy from side to side ?? If so you need to add some rebound until it goes away. Remember everyone's settings are going to be different. The more rebound you add the slower the shock will react.
 

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Here are my settings on my DS. What do you guys think?

~Front~
LSC - 4 clicks
HSC - 4 clicks
Rebound - 12
Spring length - 23 1/4”
Crossover - 1” from slider while on ground
- dunes 1/2?
Ground clearance - 14 1/2”

~Rear~
LSC - 4 clicks
HSC - 4 clicks
Rebound - 12
Spring length - 26 1/2”
Crossover - 2”
- dunes 1”?
Ground clearance - 14 3/4”
 

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I have my lsc 1/2 turn in from full soft, hsc full soft, quicker rebound upfront, slower in the rear. U will need to keep increasing preload often as springs will sack out every 100-20 miles it seems. Use your crossovers to adjust small bump compliance (but you can only do so much...stock valving is harsh...faster you go, the better it is). I’d have to measure preload, but I bet I have more than two inches more from stock? Ride height around 14.5 front and 13.75 rear. Like I said, these change about every 100 miles with stock springs.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I understand that but i'm adjusting for low speed trail rides. Just trying to make it more plush, i'll crank everything to the stiffer side when I know i'll be going fast. So far i've softened high/low speed compression all the way and 6 clicks front and rear on rebound. Seem's to be a good setup so far.
I disagree. The more rebound you have, the easier it is to get through whoops..
 

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I have my xrs set to fox and my front end when you push it down feels like a pogo stick. Does anyone else's do that when pushing down on front end?
 

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I have my xrs set to fox and my front end when you push it down feels like a pogo stick. Does anyone else's do that when pushing down on front end?

If you feel the suspension is popping up too quickly you need to add rebound dampening by screwing the adjuster in. Tim
 

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DukeX3 I have my rear cross over at 3.5 inches, super nice ride. When setting my rebound i went full open the adjusted it so i didn't feel it shimmy going into a corner hard. By shimmy i mean side to side movement, then i like the front slightly stiffer to set the car going into a corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I ended up doing the FOX tune, it was a big improvement, I did leave the crossovers higher up than recommended though.
 

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Spent a few hours doing the ride height - first 1.5 doing wrong (apparently I forgot counter vs. clockwise...) then I figured it out. I ended up sitting on the tire which made it much easier to turn the spring. I did notice that the rear nuts turned when i turned the spring so I could do it from a lower position. The front right nut did not move with the spring so took longer. Also I learned that after each adjustment you have to shake the vehicle to settle the springs. This also caused me lots of false measurements and time....Anyways I couldn't believe how much better the ride was after raising to about 16 1/4. I will do the fox tune and grease wheel bearings in next few days.
 
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