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Rudely going to critique me and explain how you would've done things different and/or better?

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2020 Maverick X3 X RS Turbo R
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
2020 X3 X RS R with stock suspension. Some of the below may vary depending on your year, model, modifications, etc. At the end of this post is an album with various photos. My experience:

Overall, pleased with the product and fitment. Various minor issues with Super ATV that I'll discuss.
  • Gusset kit instructions suck. Photos taken from a variety of machines. Steps left out meaning you turn a page and look at a photo and see a part of the kit installed with no previous mention of said part. Not a big deal but annoying. Makes you feel uncertain.
  • Stock bulkhead. Stock bulkhead will interfere with gusset kit. Flanges on stock head (presumably for strength) don't allow the bulkhead to sit flush against gusset kit. Had to cut out these flanges so I could finish the install to see if any other issues arose. Ordered a CT Raceworx bulkhead. Impressed and will allow for proper install.
  • At full droop, A Arms create clearance issues for the brake line. Photo isn't at full droop but gives you an idea of where the problem might occur. Maybe could've re-routed it but wanted to run it in a way that I felt confident slack would be there if needed. This has lead to me finally pulling the trigger on 15" wheels. Going 6/1 offset and 30'' tires.
  • Shock tower brace: Good bit of kit but creates issues for the radiator hoses, as others have mentioned. Going to tackle this next week. Planning on seeing if I can get some rotation out of the hoses to ease their interference with the brace and also sleeve them with pieces of an old radiator hoses to keep a puncture from happening as they rub the brace. ALSO: you will have to cut the fir tree cable zip ties (took me forever to find out this is what they are called) that hold the harness for lights & radiator fan to the radiator fan shroud so that you can install the brace. Wish I would've known this so I could've ordered them before hand.
  • Reminder that you need to drill out the holes in these A Arms for the sway bar end links to 12mm
  • Can’t get some of these attachment points to take grease through the zerks. Assuming they will once they’ve been a bit broken in. Greased during install.
  • Lower, rear A Arm bolts: A "keeper" bracket keeps you from removing the bolts after nuts removed. Rivets need to be drilled and skid plate cut away so you can not only remove this bracket but access the area to install new A Arm bolts and lower A Arms.
  • A Arms not drilled for re-installing brake line clamps. Not a big deal but sure would be nice if this was done already.
  • No mention in the instructions of the need to remove the nuts & bolts near the windshield and circled in two of the photos that allow for removal of the front fascia. Frustrating as you have to carefully see what is bending as you try and remove the fascia and track down where it is still connected.
  • Love how the main piece of the gusset kit is connected to upper and lower front A Arm bolts and the lower, rear A Arm bolts. Sure seems like a great way to strengthen the front end. And all of these points, in addition to the upper, rear A Arm bolts are now double shear.
To conclude, after seeing how light and dainty the stock A Arms are (I bent them which lead to all of the above and several thousand $$$ ) I wouldn't have installed aftermarket A Arms without doing the above to strengthen up the rest of the front end. AND: everyone should have Kenimoto's door opener kits. Pistons open the door and keep them open. SO nice, especially on slopes where the door slams back on you as you try and get out.
 

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I have the Super ATV trailing arms and they went on with no issues. My friend has been running the boxed Super ATV a-arms on his X3 RS for a few years. No issue with the brake lines, which probably means you have to change your routing.

Can Am went to a 12mm bolt on the swaybar on the 2020 and newer models. Super ATV has not made the changes on their arms.

Super ATV usually has youtube installation videos.

If you are going to a 15" wheel, then I would recommend you jump up to a 32" tire. You get a little more ground clearance and 32s roll over stuff easier.
 

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20210607_140725.jpg
20210607_140706.jpg

This last week at the dunes I ripped the tube insert out of a SATV Aarm. Looks like it was a shitty weld on the insert. I got lucky and was able to stop before it ripped the whole front suspension off. I have been running these arms for a 1.5 years. It happened on day 1, 20 minutes into the first ride. Tore it apart out in the dunes and a buddy had a tig welder setup in his trailer back at camp. So I welded it back together and beat the shit out of the car for the next 4 days.
Now I don't want that to happen again. So I going to buy new arms or I'm going to strip all P coating off and tig weld all the joints up just to make sure.
 

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View attachment 269623 View attachment 269624
This last week at the dunes I ripped the tube insert out of a SATV Aarm. Looks like it was a shitty weld on the insert. I got lucky and was able to stop before it ripped the whole front suspension off. I have been running these arms for a 1.5 years. It happened on day 1, 20 minutes into the first ride. Tore it apart out in the dunes and a buddy had a tig welder setup in his trailer back at camp. So I welded it back together and beat the shit out of the car for the next 4 days.
Now I don't want that to happen again. So I going to buy new arms or I'm going to strip all P coating off and tig weld all the joints up just to make sure.
Those inserts should have a rosette weld to stop that. Tim
 

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View attachment 269623 View attachment 269624
This last week at the dunes I ripped the tube insert out of a SATV Aarm. Looks like it was a shitty weld on the insert. I got lucky and was able to stop before it ripped the whole front suspension off. I have been running these arms for a 1.5 years. It happened on day 1, 20 minutes into the first ride. Tore it apart out in the dunes and a buddy had a tig welder setup in his trailer back at camp. So I welded it back together and beat the shit out of the car for the next 4 days.
Now I don't want that to happen again. So I going to buy new arms or I'm going to strip all P coating off and tig weld all the joints up just to make sure.
Is it an optical illusion or is that a crack in the frame right about the VIN?

Looks like southern Oregon coast dunes?
 
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