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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My mavie drivetrain is jerking bad after a recent secondary fall off. Its when you are going 20mph in low in snow. Dealer said it was all fixed but its not.

Took belt off, replaced with new and cleaned clutch, still no dice.

"I found that the secondary sheave that moves to the cam seems tweaked. When I spin it with the belt removal tool it wobbles in and out like its outta round. Is this the cause of my jerking?" Edit: My bad it was the off center tool
Thanks
 

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with the belt removal tool apread into the secondary, it presses against the clutch on one side. so one side will be pressed further out than the opposing side. pull the spreader tool out and put the machine in neutral and spin it again. it should spin alot more smoothly. the spreader is pressing one side out further than the other. in order for the inner sheave to spin perfectly smooth with a spreader tool inserted, you would need two spreader tools positioned directly across from each other and both turned in at the same exact depth to press against both sides of the secondary the same amount. right now you basically have one portion of the clutch pressed in further than the other.

if the machine feels sloppy and vibrates alot after the secondary backed off, you need to check the secondary shaft. when the secondary pops off, i have seen them tweak the secondary transmission shaft. your dealer may just have replaced the parts that "appeared" to be bad like the helix and back of the secondary and called it a day without actually checking to see if there was any run out in the transmissioin shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You were right about the spreader tool.
So I need to place a dial indicator on the shaft and spin it? Can I do it on the fixed pully insted? I want to tell my dealer whats wrong. And I dont want to cross the fine line of me taking it all apart so i know what need replaced and the dealer fixing what was started with the B.E.S.T. warranty claim.

All they replaced is the cam. Thats it! No Bolt, no melted Cover, or Belt... I knew the bolt needed replace at the least when it came off, they insisted it was ok to reuse. I bought the shop manual so, I know... And im 90% sure they installed the bolt with an impact (socket ring around washer, and since it was off when I took it in...) as i cant get it off with out the special clutch tool and not using an impact per the shop manual... Or it was stripped and now cross threaded. Im going to have to use an impact to get this apart at home.

If i had the money at this point I would buy aftermarket but even then I would want a Good working stock one on the shelf.
Thank you for the fast response.
 

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Something is bent. Is the whole clutch doing it or just the inner sheave? I would take it off and check the runout on the shaft it goes on its its good, then i would check the clutch something is really bent. If the sheave is doing that then yes i would thing thats the jerking issue. Its grabbing then not grabbing the belt. It has to be vibrating like a mofo to.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will snag a dial indicator tomorrow from work. I am expecting the dealer manager to call too, its been 5 days waiting. The sheave thing was the spreader tool kicking it side ways, i was so excited I finialy thought I found it after hours reserching, buying new belts, 4hrs to and from dealer and time taking covers off. I jumped to conclusions with out logic.
 

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you can put a dial indicator on the outer sheave of the primary BUT that wont tell you a whole lot. the entire driven clutch rests on the shaft, which is sitting bottomed out in the bearing that is in the outer fixed sheave. i have seen these bearings be outta whack and allow the entire driven clutch to wobble around even though the shaft is straight. SOOO... putting a dial indicator on the clutch may scare you because they can easily get outta whack. you could have a bent transmission shaft making the entire clutch wobble, or your outer bearing that is pressed into the outer fixed sheave may not be bottomed out properly which is allowing the clutch to wobble around un-necessarily.

if your dealer did not replace the back of the secondary then he screwed you! when the secondary comes off from the bolt backing out, it chews up the helix and chews the ears off the helix. once the helix is chewed up it chews the back of the secondary up as well. i have fixed dozens of machines after the secondary bolt backs out and every single one has needed 4 or 5 things

1 - cam (helix)
1 - inner movable sheave
1 - new bolt
1 - 10mmx1.5 tap to clean up the trans shaft. when the bolt backs out the spring tension is so great that as the bolt is backing out, when the bolt gets to the last thread, it almost always rips the last thread out of the trans shaft. the secondary bolt is so much harder, it does not hurt the bolt, it rips the last solid thread out of the trans shaft. so i always take a tap and clean the shaft up.

1 - secondary spring depending on the conditions. most of the time as the secondary is spinning and comes off, the secondary forces the spring to spin violently and melt itself into the helix. you would likterally have to chisel the spring out of the melted helix in order to re-use it. if you had a torsional spring then it unwinds the torsional spring rendering it useless.

you likely would need the spring as well. i have always replaced them because its easier to replace a $15 spring than try to chisel it out of the melted helix and "hope" the secondary spring is still good.
 

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I don't have any problems with my stock clutch but I'm loving the info //Airdam is putting up and I'm sure the OP is also. Thanks Adam.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thank you for the information. Talked to a new dealer about it today and its going in on Friday. This bad dealer experience has been a learning experience both in technical knowledge and sad to say it but the value of a hand shake to some...
 

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Ok I have a question about this my secondary is running out of round. Had the recall done a few months back and noticed a surging at steddy speed. I thought maybe tire issues but had the cvt apart and found the secondary running out so think this is the coulpret. So on to the question the whole clutch is runs out of round including the stud that was installed. Would this likely be a seat or bent stud issue? How common are trans shafts being bent? I talked to the dealer about it and warranty the response I got was they would do some checking. They did the recall and no problem befor so wouldn't it be in there hands? If bent shaft I could see them saying not covered for abuse but when I did a search only this thread came up so must be uncommon correct. How does one bend the trans shaft? Any response would be apericated and thank to Airdam for all the info from befor.
 
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