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STM Installed

7K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  C.Moore 
#1 · (Edited)
Well decided to go ahead and install the Rage VI primary and secondary. If you remember, I was on the fence about installing it or keep the stock one that was working well so far. Everything went well other than I had a heck of a time getting the inner sheave off the stock primary. Had to resort to the grease/teflon tape trick, but after that it popped right off. Stock bolt (with the washer fix) looked fine. Absolutely no sign of stretching or slipping.

New clutches when on great. Primary runs much quieter than the stock unit. Didn't get to really ride it much. Rain is ass deep to a giraffe around here. I does need a little adjustment on the engagement speed as its quite a bit higher than stock. Going to make a call to STM Monday as to what is the best way to accomplish this. At their suggestion, I'm running the heavier gold spring on the secondary but not sure how, or if, this affects the engagement speed. I have 2 washers on the 1st stage arms and am thinking I need more here.

Supposed to finally be nice here tomorrow and I'm riding with a bunch of Razr guys tomorrow so I'll give you guys a little more complete report tomorrow evening. Should get a chance to see how the shift out is and check for over-rev.

Important thing is I got the STM sticker on! :big smile:

Matt

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#2 ·
Well got a chance to try out the STM combo Sunday. Overall, VERY impressive. Still needs a little adjustment but I have no doubt this is going to work very well. Couple things:

1. Engagement speed is too high. Doesn't engage until about 2100-2300 RPM. And when it does engage it is still a little light on the belt grip. I will be adding weight to bring this down a little more. Once the RPM's are up though, it pulls like a freight train. NO SLIP.

2. While I have the secondary with the engine brake, it is not anywhere near as aggresive as the stock setup. If you feather the throttle keeping the primary engaged, the braking IS there, just not like stock. If the motor drops below the engaement RPM, it free-wheels. I don't call this bad, just different than what I'm used to. Getting my engagement speed lower should help this as well.

3. I do not have any sign of over-rev. With the stock set-up, on a full throttle run the motor would almost immediately go to 8,000 RPM, stay there til about 45-50 MPH, then drop to 7,400-7,500, and slowly climb back up. With the STM, the motor goes to about 7,500 and pulls HARD, while slowly making its way back to 8,000. It's my first custom clutch so I don't know if this is what needs to be happening or not? Is this correct? My son was following me up several of these long hill climbs in loose rock and he said it was throwing a massive roost out the back (had the cut on his arm to prove it!) and I can feel the bike pulling hard with no signs of clutch slip, but don't know about the 7,500 RPM thing?

I'll be giving STM a call today for some suggestions. With a little tweeking, I have no doubt it will be great. The peace-of-mind is well worth it. Any of you clutch guru's feel free to contribute! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Sincerley,
Matt
 
#4 ·
I talked with STM.

Going to add some weight to the primary arms to help bring the engagement speed down. Also asked them how they have the Maverick in their website video weighted. I need to add more weight to the secondary arms as well.

On their previous recommendation, I changed the yellow secondary spring out for the next stiffer spring, the gold one. I may need to remove a couple of the secondary shims to tighten the belt a bit as well. I'm going to work on getting the engagement speed and belt tension right and then work on the secondary spring.

C.Moore, is the black/violet spring stiffer yet than the gold?

Matt
 
#5 ·
I'm quoting adam from airdam but he said the black/violet spring which is a torsional spring is only slightly stiffer than stock but where its a torsional it has quite a few advantages over a non torsional spring. Adam said a torsional spring will backshift alot better
 
#6 ·
Interesting. And you are using the STM secondary? I'll have to look into that.

What is the difference between a "torsional" spring and a "regular" spring? Not trying to be a smart@ss, just don't know!
 
#7 ·
And what exactly do you mean by "backshift"? I hear that term a lot in regards to CVT's but don't know exactly what they are refering to.
 
#10 ·
That's kind of what I thought but wasn't for sure.

P.S. We are planning a first time Glamis run next spring. I'll be PM'ing you soon on some Glamis tips!
 
#11 ·
I've watched most of those. It's where I've learned most of my info. Starting to feel better about it but still get lost and confused at times. It's a neat learning experience though!

I would STILL prefer a Maverick with a clutch and a 5-speed. I KNOW what gear I'm in, and need to be in, with that set-up!

Thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted with the changes.

Matt
 
#13 ·
A little update on where we are at with the clutches.

Pulled everything back off and added more weight. The belt was definitely slipping as it is glazed over. Now running both tungsten weights on the bottom of the primary arms as well as 4 washers on the second hole of the primary arms. Also running 2 washers on the primary arms. Also split the secondary and took 3 of the 5 shims out to tighten the belt some more. Got it all back together tonight along with a new belt. (Old one will ride in the tool bag as a back up!)

Much better. Engagement is still a little higher than I'd like so I'm going to add some more weight to the primary arms. Belt pinch, once engaged, is much better. On a couple high speed runs on pavement, it will ALMOST pull the front end off the ground. That is with both me and my brother's 250# fat ass in there! Acceleration is awesome. No sign of over-rev as the motor goes to about 7400-7500 and pulls hard while rising to the redline at 8000. I'll try to get a video tomorrow.

It's getting there. Need some more weight on the primary arms to lower engagement speed a bit more. But overall, I'm very happy with it. Only thing I don't like is that you have to remove the secondary bolt to pull the belt but it's not that big of a deal really. Weights can be adjusted on the primary without removing it.

Hope this helps!

Matt
 
#14 · (Edited)
Matt, I see you have the Rage 6 primary. Did you go with the Gen 2 secondary? What STM tools did you need to get? I'm soooo close to pulling the trigger on the full STM setup. I think I'm going to drop the extra $ for the Rage 8 and never have to worry about buying another clutch, no matter what mods I ultimatly end up with.
 
#17 · (Edited)
To lower your engagement I think you should be changing you primary spring to the bright green one instead of adding weight. You are going to need to remove some weight to get your RPM's to jump instantly up to 8000 where you want them.

Your belt was most likely slipping in your secondary on your first setup with the yellow secondary spring. I would not run any less of a secondary spring than the gold on a Maverick.
 
#26 ·
Called STM. They too recommended that I change to the lime green spring in the primary. It is a softer spring which will in turn allow the primary arms to engage the clutch at a lower RPM.

I'm going to leave the weight where it's at. STM also recommended weighting it for 7400-7500 out of the hole with it building from there to redline. I agree with them. 8000 is not where the motor is going to make the most power. Like I said. The way I have it now it pulls like a freight train off the line. I truly believe that without the 2 fat guys in the seat, on pavement it would pull the front end off the ground. However, I may need to remove a few grams after installing this lighter spring. The lighter spring may indeed make it shift out too fast.

I'll keep you guys posted!

Matt
 
#18 ·
With this setup you have to remove the secondary to get the belt off?
I was just giving a buddy of mine crap that he has to carry an electric impact to change a belt on his Wildcat X. That sounds like fun on the side of a trail...
 
#20 ·
Sorry for the hijack but my buddies X got me to thinking. On the X you have to remove the shock to get the cover off, on my XP you have to finesse is to get the cover off. On the Maverick does it require any mechanical gymnastics to get the cover off?
 
#22 · (Edited)
Not too big of a deal.
Remove the driver seat, remove the 2 LH engine covers, remove the clutch cover. The lower 4 bolts are PITA with out a ratcheting 8mm wrench. For testing I leave the engine side covers off.

Other set up info I have learned...
Added 2g to each first stage arm to control over rev.
Seemed that weight change had limited effect on engagement rpm.
Gold spring does engage hi, if the green spring would lower it, will this have a negative effect on reving to peak rpm?
 
#23 ·
No. I do not have the Gen 2 secondary. I originally bought this last year set up for my Renegade. I don't believe they had the Gen 2 ready at the time. I do have the braking one with the 45 degree helix.

Remember, with the Rage 8 the weights will not be the same as my Rage 6 as you will have the 2 extra arms. You might want to talk to STM and see what they're recommenation is. I know the Rage 8 is typically used in high power, turbo like applications.

I too went ahead an intalled the STM mainly so I would have the piece-of-mind. My stock primary had no signs of excess tightening even after running it hard, but I just couldn't quit worrying about it shelling in the middle of BFE....

Matt
 
#24 ·
I do have the gold spring in the secondary. Had it installed on the first run as well. I think there were a couple things that was making the belt slip. One is the engagement was very high, 2300-2400 RPM. I'm now closer to 2100 but would still like it to be lower and more positive on the low end. Second is I think my belt was too loose, causing it to slip even more on the lower RPM's. You could feel the belt finally grapping correctly on hill climbs when I punched the throttle and got the RPM's up. Removed 3 shims on the secondary and the belt is much tighter now. Not too tight though as I can still easily shift from R to H to L ect without any creep.

I'm going to give STM a call to see where I need to go with getting the engagement down further. Is the green spring stiffer or softer? Why do you say change the spring instead of adding more to the primary arms? Just curious. I still am not seeeing exactly how the primary arms affect the clutch. Its pretty clear with the secondary arms but still having trouble grasping the "function" of the primary arms and rollers and how they affect the initial engagement of the clutch.

These are most definately NOT plug-and-play but I'm getting there!

Matt
 
#25 ·
It's really not that big of a deal. Because the spring is on the front of the secondary instead of the back, you have to compress the out sheave instead of pushing the inner sheave. Remove the bolt holding the secondary on, STM sends you a piece of threaded rod with a nylon cup that threads into the drive shaft, then use the 17mm wrench in your BRP tool kit to tighten it down spreading the secondary. Change the belt, loosen the bolt, apply a little lock tight to the secondary bolt and tighten it up. Only speacial tool you need to keep with you is a 8mm hex socket and wrench to remove the seconday bolt with.

I really think that once I get it dialed in it will be a set-it and forget-it deal.

Matt
 
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