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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1000R Maverick with about 150 miles on it and have been reading all of the clutch issues and quite honestly it has me more than a little nervous. I am headed out with my kids to Little Sahara next week for 5 days of duning and in the back of my mind I am sure I won't stop thinking about the clutch.

Anyhow, I was at a buddies house today that I ride with and we were talking side by sides and I mentioned my concerns about the clutch. Well he has a buddy that has something to do with Can Am and is part of a race team. He immediatley called his buddy and explained to him my concern about the Maverick. Here was his reply and please don't flame me or ask me any technical questions. I just wanted to pass this on in case it helps anyone.

He said that the bolt that is snapping has a very specific torque spec and that yes some snapped the bolt after use from the first run. Can Am checked some in the field and found that some bolts were not torqued correctly during manufacturing from the machine that does this. He said the specs are in the manual if I want to check them and he recommended that some type of thread lock be used to hold it in place. He stated that some of the racing teams had done this and have seen 0 failures during some hard use.

I am hoping to find that manual spec and check the bolt myself for some piece of mind. I am just passing this on so maybe you guys can do the same. If anyone has that spec, it woudl be much appreciated.

I am not sure how this whole bolt works, but it sounds like people are saying it is supposed to turn, but to me that doesn't seem right. His reply makes sense and he is supposedly in the know. I was starting to think about buying an aftermarket clutch set up but if I can save that money for something else, I would much rather do so.

I think Glamisfan has lost 2 bolts and maybe this could be the reason. If the dealer is not torqueing the bolt correctly, could that have caused the second break. I was a mechanic years ago and know many techs don't pay attention to torque specs at all.

I know, I know.....A freind of a freind of a freind......but for those of you that better understand this issue, does this possibly make sense?
 

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I have a 1000R Maverick with about 150 miles on it and have been reading all of the clutch issues and quite honestly it has me more than a little nervous. I am headed out with my kids to Little Sahara next week for 5 days of duning and in the back of my mind I am sure I won't stop thinking about the clutch.

Anyhow, I was at a buddies house today that I ride with and we were talking side by sides and I mentioned my concerns about the clutch. Well he has a buddy that has something to do with Can Am and is part of a race team. He immediatley called his buddy and explained to him my concern about the Maverick. Here was his reply and please don't flame me or ask me any technical questions. I just wanted to pass this on in case it helps anyone.

He said that the bolt that is snapping has a very specific torque spec and that yes some snapped the bolt after use from the first run. Can Am checked some in the field and found that some bolts were not torqued correctly during manufacturing from the machine that does this. He said the specs are in the manual if I want to check them and he recommended that some type of thread lock be used to hold it in place. He stated that some of the racing teams had done this and have seen 0 failures during some hard use.

I am hoping to find that manual spec and check the bolt myself for some piece of mind. I am just passing this on so maybe you guys can do the same. If anyone has that spec, it woudl be much appreciated.

I am not sure how this whole bolt works, but it sounds like people are saying it is supposed to turn, but to me that doesn't seem right. His reply makes sense and he is supposedly in the know. I was starting to think about buying an aftermarket clutch set up but if I can save that money for something else, I would much rather do so.

I think Glamisfan has lost 2 bolts and maybe this could be the reason. If the dealer is not torqueing the bolt correctly, could that have caused the second break. I was a mechanic years ago and know many techs don't pay attention to torque specs at all.

I know, I know.....A freind of a freind of a freind......but for those of you that better understand this issue, does this possibly make sense?
It makes sense yes. Unfortunately if you read all the posts about the bolt, its main issue is not breaking or backing out due to not being torqued correctly, it is that is slips and over-torques itself to the stretching limit of the bolt then snaps off. You will probably catch a little flaming from some that have experienced the issue, maybe even more than once (glamisfan), take it in stride. Adam from Airdam also has multiple photos showing how the bolt stretches. There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it happens. Seen people have it happen anywhere from 5 minutes to 500 miles and beyond. It sounds like an issue that they have issued a slippery washer and new bolt recall, but still have seen failures since the recall. I can understand your concerns and wanting some piece of mind, but it may not be something you can get even with the friend of a friend information. There is something going on there with the bolt/clutch assy. It has been seen several times unfortunately....Lots of good information and advice, but also good money well spent if its in the budget to guarantee you have a good trouble free trip, at least on your clutch! It just may be time for that upgrade...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It makes sense yes. Unfortunately if you read all the posts about the bolt, its main issue is not breaking or backing out due to not being torqued correctly, it is that is slips and over-torques itself to the stretching limit of the bolt then snaps off. You will probably catch a little flaming from some that have experienced the issue, maybe even more than once (glamisfan), take it in stride. Adam from Airdam also has multiple photos showing how the bolt stretches. There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it happens. Seen people have it happen anywhere from 5 minutes to 500 miles and beyond. It sounds like an issue that they have issued a slippery washer and new bolt recall, but still have seen failures since the recall. I can understand your concerns and wanting some piece of mind, but it may not be something you can get even with the friend of a friend information. There is something going on there with the bolt/clutch assy. It has been seen several times unfortunately....Lots of good information and advice, but also good money well spent if its in the budget to guarantee you have a good trouble free trip, at least on your clutch! It just may be time for that upgrade...
I don't understand this enough I guess, but what he said sort of made sense. I am just saying what if, but what if the bolt was not put in tight enough and then the fact that it could then turn under the right conditions is what is causing it to break. In other words the actual spinning of the bolt and then the stop is what is shearing it? Does that make sense? What if the bolt were torqued correctly and had no opportunity to spin?

I am not that smart at this stuff, but I see where that could make sense possibly. I should just shut up and see where this all goes, but I really want a good answer to this clutch issue as does everyone else. It would be one thing if it happened to just one or two Mavs, but there is obviously an issue. I have owned 3 RZRs and have an XP4 now also. It just sucks that we all have worry about the possibilty of getting stranded every time we go out. It doesn't seem right that we might have to spend 800-1300 dollars just to avoid that worry. I am sure I will end up doing this, but here I am all worked up about this issue and it hasn't even happened to me. I can only imagine the frustration of those that have experienced it.
 

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I don't understand this enough I guess, but what he said sort of made sense. I am just saying what if, but what if the bolt was not put in tight enough and then the fact that it could then turn under the right conditions is what is causing it to break. In other words the actual spinning of the bolt and then the stop is what is shearing it? Does that make sense? What if the bolt were torqued correctly and had no opportunity to spin?

I am not that smart at this stuff, but I see where that could make sense possibly. I should just shut up and see where this all goes, but I really want a good answer to this clutch issue as does everyone else. It would be one thing if it happened to just one or two Mavs, but there is obviously an issue. I have owned 3 RZRs and have an XP4 now also. It just sucks that we all have worry about the possibilty of getting stranded every time we go out. It doesn't seem right that we might have to spend 800-1300 dollars just to avoid that worry. I am sure I will end up doing this, but here I am all worked up about this issue and it hasn't even happened to me. I can only imagine the frustration of those that have experienced it.
I do understand that the whole concept is hard or wierd to understand. The face of the clutch is grabbing the bolt and tightening it to unrealistic torques until it stretches the threaded part of the bolt to the breaking point. This recall, which I am sure you have read about focuses around a "slippery washer". This being the key to their thinking (their meaning the can am engineers). The washer is supposed to act as a barrier from traction, or not allow the clutch to grab that bolt and torque it to the moon. I agree with you...Lets just see where all this information lands in the end.
 

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I'm in the same boat as you, Burep. Leaving for the dunes next week and all I can think about is this clutch leaving me stranded. I did have the recall done and this whole thing about putting locktite on the bolts is what has me confused. My dealer told me that they supposed to clean all the grease up, clean up all the threads on the shaft, put the new washers in place torque primary bolt to 89 ft lbs, torque the secondary bolt to 15 ft lbs. than continue tighten 180 degrees. And use no locktite, grease of anykind. That is what the instructions they get from brp say to do. Don't know if its right but it is what they told me.
 

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I just can't help myself, but if you have owned 3 RZRs you should be used to breakdowns by now. I never worry about breakdowns, that why you ride with friends with tow straps
 

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Ill make it simple....The Inner and Outer Sheeves of the Primary ARE NOT LOCKED TOGETHER...Thus allowing the Primary to trash belts....The slippery washers are only a bandaid and while if you torque the bolt and apply some BLUE loctite you may not have bolt issues you will have belt issues when ran hard...All this is void if you don't have there Slippery washer Upgrade...Then your back to breaking bolts.... Understand?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just can't help myself, but if you have owned 3 RZRs you should be used to breakdowns by now. I never worry about breakdowns, that why you ride with friends with tow straps
Funny, but I can honestly say that none of my RZR's have left me stranded due to factory breakdowns. I had a RZR4 and put 2100 miles on it with no mechanical issues. We also had a RZR S at the same time and put about 1400 miles on it. The only time it failed was due to an aftermarket bolt that broke on an aftermarket Tie Rod and it was a quick fix. We have since sold both and now have an RZR XP4 that we have had for about 7 months. It did great until some A hole jumped into us at Little Sahara. Will pick it up next week. Say what you want, but my RZR's have been very dependable.

I had a Can Am quad until a year ago also and loved it. I do feel the Maverick is better built with a better fit and finish, better ride, and more power. I just hate having to wonder about this clutch. Maybe it is because I don't fully understand it. I read the RZR forums and of course this forum and did alot of preventative maintenance on my RZR's. It just has me concerned that I can't really do a for sure preventative maintenance on this clutch issue. I will more than likely buy an aftermarket clutch just for peace of mind when it is all said and done.
 

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Ill make it simple....The Inner and Outer Sheeves of the Primary ARE NOT LOCKED TOGETHER...Thus allowing the Primary to trash belts....The slippery washers are only a bandaid and while if you torque the bolt and apply some BLUE loctite you may not have bolt issues you will have belt issues when ran hard...All this is void if you don't have there Slippery washer Upgrade...Then your back to breaking bolts.... Understand?
Its Kinda a Catch 22 in so many words.......
 

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Funny, but I can honestly say that none of my RZR's have left me stranded due to factory breakdowns. I had a RZR4 and put 2100 miles on it with no mechanical issues. We also had a RZR S at the same time and put about 1400 miles on it. The only time it failed was due to an aftermarket bolt that broke on an aftermarket Tie Rod and it was a quick fix. We have since sold both and now have an RZR XP4 that we have had for about 7 months. It did great until some A hole jumped into us at Little Sahara. Will pick it up next week. Say what you want, but my RZR's have been very dependable.

I had a Can Am quad until a year ago also and loved it. I do feel the Maverick is better built with a better fit and finish, better ride, and more power. I just hate having to wonder about this clutch. Maybe it is because I don't fully understand it. I read the RZR forums and of course this forum and did alot of preventative maintenance on my RZR's. It just has me concerned that I can't really do a for sure preventative maintenance on this clutch issue. I will more than likely buy an aftermarket clutch just for peace of mind when it is all said and done.
The Primary clutch is all you have to worry about....The bike is solid ... I know my commanders where...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Primary clutch is all you have to worry about....The bike is solid ... I know my commanders where...
That's what I am beginning to see. I was hoping for a good fix from Can Am but as stated it seems the washers are just a band aid. I was hoping what I heard today might work but it sounds like it's really just luck if it does.

There's no doubt in my mind that this is a great machine!
 

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I guess I'm even dumber to CVT systems. Why can't the two pieces of the primary be welded together?
Already thought of that too, but the outer steel spider reinforcement goes outboard of the spider, not sure how you would access it for welding or even re-assembly. There is also is a 1 way bearing behind the outer that must be serviced.
 

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You can not weld them together however the outer sheave could have been keyed to the inner sheave stationary shaft from the factory to not slip. Why they do not do this is beyond me. It has been an on going issue for them on the Commander. Then they added 16 more HP to the Maverick and expected the problem to go away! Being an Engineer myself I would think they would learn form the design flaw and fix it, I do!
 

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why not make a splined shaft and replace the steel insert to match the spline. Might be better to replace the crank and insert than add a $1000 clutch.
 

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You can not weld them together however the outer sheave could have been keyed to the inner sheave stationary shaft from the factory to not slip. Why they do not do this is beyond me. It has been an on going issue for them on the Commander. Then they added 16 more HP to the Maverick and expected the problem to go away! Being an Engineer myself I would think they would learn form the design flaw and fix it, I do!
I believe that their college learned engineers design slip into the primary to save cv's, axles, differentials, and gearboxes. Then they cut down the bolt that holds the primary on, so the bolt will break before damaging the crank. Just a bad bad bad bad design!
 

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Burep.... I too am interested and concerned somewhat as I just purchased a 1000r and hope to pick it up for this weekend. I'm calling my sales rep today to ask him to check my VIN against any recall/update report from the manufacturer. IF mine needs the slippery washer now is the time to install it. I will have better piece of mind after my rep checks my VIN.
I would suggest that you call your sales rep and ask for the same. IF you need the slippery washer, you could maybe get it installed before your trip. Once you (or I) are up to date with manufacturer suggested hardware modes, there is little or nothing one can do without jepordizing the warranty. So, bottom line, once you check with your rep - go enjoy!
 

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I have a machinist next door, i may try a couple things and see if it works



i am a machinist, and i have tried everything.

4 years ago, i keyed the inner and outer tapers together. the "shear" created by the primary slipping sheared the 1/4" keystock
3.5 years ago, i cut the center out of the stock aluminum spyder, and built a steel tapered piece that i bolted to the spyder, i had to drill and tap the spyder in 6 places and bolted the steel insert to the spyder so when i bolted the outer movable sheave, there was a steel insert touching the steel inner shaft (identical to the maverick setup) i tried this 3 years ago, it does very good, BUT i had to use the locking compound and new bolts to tighten the crap out of the assembly to lock everything together to make it perfect. it worked, very well. BUT doing this was costly, and very time consuming.
3 years ago i found the CVtech primary. i started modifying them and building them to fit the can-ams. i found it purely looking to try and find a fix for the belt slipping problem of the stock can-am primary. the CVtech has an inner and outer that are locked together which eliminates the slip. fixing this belt slipping issue was an amazing find. absolutely works just plain and simple. after i learned the CVtech and started figuring out what all could be done to it, i found quite a good bit of gains that were on the table to be had.

1) you have a smaller one-way bearing diameter, which allows the belt to drop lower in the primary (and subsequently higher in the secondary) which gives you a 25-26% gear reduction
2) the one-way bearing is COMPLETELY sealed and filled with dry graphite for lubricant. supposedly a "no maintanance" item. i have very very rarely ever had a single problem out of any of the one-way bearings on a CVtech
3) the design of the clutch, without levers (cam arms) allows the CVtech to engage with more clamping force than any other clutch which gives you a super butter smooth engagement, with 100% assurance you wont slip a belt. when the CVtech locks up to the belt, its got it tight, you can feel it and have a confident feel of what the clutch is doing
4) the CVtech is lighter than the stock primary, which allows your engine to rev faster and accelerate quicker giving you a boost in acceleration performance
5) the CVtech is also 1/2" larger diameter than a normal comander primary, and right at 1/4" larger diameter than the maverick primary. this larger diameter gives you a taller gear ratio, allowing you the ability to run more top speeds (the maverick is speed limited in high and low range so it kinda shoots us in the foot)
6) the CVtech just flat out, absolutely works, and works great. the moving parts in the clutch are a graphite and carbon composite. so as they move back and forth, they actually lubricate themselves. this gives you a nearly wear resistant clutch, with no maintanance, that you literally should not have to touch.
7) IF you ever need to change the weights or springs in a CVtech it is SO super easy to figure out. even a complete novice could look at it, just think about it all a second, and completley figure it out, how it works, how it goes together, ect. its a very simple design, and flat out works. the clutch is 100% tunable, there are weights and springs inside the primary that allow you to change your engagement rate, shiftout rate, and shiftout RPMs. all the things you need to balance a clutch out. and its flat out easy.



the reason i quit trying to fix the stock primary, is because, for the low price of that new primary, you can fix your belt slipping problem, AND pick up a shoot ton of performance. it was a double win win situation.

and to whoever was talking the other day about the STM being just as expensive as a CVtech...... you must not have bought a full STM setup before. the absolute cheapest setup they have, the rage 3 and gen 1 tuner secondary is $1490 + shipping thats the absolute cheapest thing they have. the very next step up is the rage 3 primary and gen 2 secondary ($1525), and i dont recommend it on the maverick. the rage 3 only has 3 weights in it, which in my tests on previous high power machines, can not produce enough clamping force on the belt to adequately hold the 100+hp forever with no problems. thats why i recommend the rage 6 primary, and the rage 6 primary and gen 1 secondary is $2015 and if you add a gen 2 secondary you are over $2050.
 
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