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I ordered one thru my dealer. It has been 5 weeks since they began the install and it still doesn't work right...no where near as good as stock! My dealer tells me that Silber hasn't been much help. They initially sent a wrong part (spring maybe). Something to do with altitude. If that is an issue, then why didn't they ask the appropriate questions when the order is being placed?! Then, it took over two weeks to get here! WTF! This is the first turbo my dealer has installed on a Maverick. But the mechanic doing the job has turbo experience. Silber advertises their turbo as "bolt on". Well, it did bolt on, but the thing doesn't work right. They say 7 hrs to install it. I would be happy with less than 20. My dealer has way more than that into it trying to trouble shoot Silber's problems. I have dealt with this dealer for years and they are very good. There seems to be a communication issue between Silber's electronics and those of the Maverick. I don't really understand. Not my department. The thing shuts down regularly. No apparent rhyme or reason to this. The RPMs vary when it shuts down. But, for sure, it shuts down when the RPM is held constant at 4300, 5000, & 6900 RPMs. My top end also dropped from 119kph (70mph) to 108kph (64mph)! And the new clutch...rattles. My dealer gave me a loaner last weekend while they had mine and it was superior over my turbo'd XRS in acceleration and top speed! WTF!!! Silber should not be selling a product that does not do what they promise. I have sent Silber 2 emails regarding this pleading for help. They have yet to reply! This is not fair to me or my dealer. I'm going to ask my dealer to send it back. I have no other choice. I guess I'll wait for the aerocharger! BOTTOM LINE (at this point) : DO NOT BUY A SILBER TURBO!
 

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You might want to check with K&T performance in utah and see if they are doing anything with mavericks yet they do a lot of R&D before they release a product. I know one thing they always have the fastest and most reliable turbo sxs at the hp war contest.
 

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I have been working over three months to get two of these kits working. I have changed a lot of things along the way to hopefully make it work. Lots of weak links an issues/bugs that need to be worked out for sure. Electronics and Oil Pressure to Turbo being the Biggest. I am determined to make it work but it has not come without a cost as we melted one of the cylinders down first run out. One of the first issues we had was the dobeck not getting an accurate signal from the third o2 sensor due to oil blowing by mechanical seal on turbo and coating it. Once we got that issue fixed wow what a difference. We actually made some impressive runs compared to initial install (no more shutting down into limp mode finally). I could write a book on all the issues we have had and a pile of good parts we replaced along the way trying to find the problem but it wouldn't be worth my time. Any one has questions or would like to know more feel free to ask.
 

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I have been working over three months to get two of these kits working. I have changed a lot of things along the way to hopefully make it work. Lots of weak links an issues/bugs that need to be worked out for sure. Electronics and Oil Pressure to Turbo being the Biggest. I am determined to make it work but it has not come without a cost as we melted one of the cylinders down first run out. One of the first issues we had was the dobeck not getting an accurate signal from the third o2 sensor due to oil blowing by mechanical seal on turbo and coating it. Once we got that issue fixed wow what a difference. We actually made some impressive runs compared to initial install (no more shutting down into limp mode finally). I could write a book on all the issues we have had and a pile of good parts we replaced along the way trying to find the problem but it wouldn't be worth my time. Any one has questions or would like to know more feel free to ask.
What did you have to do to stop if from going into limp mode ?


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yes, please tell us what was/is needed to make this system work.
 

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What did you have to do to stop if from going into limp mode ?


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It was combination of two things. We had a bad sensor that was included in the Silber kit. Went to Chevy dealership and got a new one ($29). The other issue we had was the excessive oil pressure blowing by mechanical seal of turbo was causing false signal to Dobeck controller which did not allow it to work properly (in my opinion). In the pictures you will see our bypass which stopped blow by and seemed to make a noticeable difference in performance and no limp modes for about a month now.
BEFORE
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381262819.482074.jpg
AFTER
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381262850.889575.jpg
 

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The problem I see, is the oil drain from the turbo is way way way too small. If you're bypassing oil by the turbo, then on to the crankcase, that means the oil to the engine is lower than necessary. If it's a ball bearing turbo, you can restrict the turbo oil, but the problem of a too small of a drain will make it leak oil into exhaust, & most likely the intake. Oil in the intake, & it becomes a diesel, especially since it's a 12.5:1 compression motor, with oil in the inlet, and gasoline as a fuel, even worse, if it has no intercooler.
 

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I am currently in the process of eliminating the third fuel injector as I feel it is not doing its job being so far away from the cylinder intakes. Eliminating the BRP Computer With Monster ECM and new 850cc injectors there will be no need to have the third. I think being able to control each cylinder independently we hopefully will be able to corral the rest of the issues with the turbo install. I can keep you posted as Monsters will be here next week. I am also install one of the Monster ECM's on a stock Maverick to see what gains we can have.
 

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The problem I see, is the oil drain from the turbo is way way way too small. If you're bypassing oil by the turbo, then on to the crankcase, that means the oil to the engine is lower than necessary. If it's a ball bearing turbo, you can restrict the turbo oil, but the problem of a too small of a drain will make it leak oil into exhaust, & most likely the intake. Oil in the intake, & it becomes a diesel, especially since it's a 12.5:1 compression motor, with oil in the inlet, and gasoline as a fuel, even worse, if it has no intercooler.
That was our issue. Silber Turbo is a non ball bearing turbo. He claims the .035 oil inlet restrictor will hold back pressure. After I realized it just restricts flow not pressure I decided to bypass the excess oil back to crankcase thru a 5/8" hose. I know the turbos mechanical seal will only hold back less than 30psi correct? (maverick puts out way more than that). Another option would be to do a scavenger pump and a closed loop oil system for the turbo and not the hot engine oil all together. The turbo doesn't need oil pressure hardly at all. I am all ears to options and your experience. Thanks in advance.

On another note does the thicker base gaskets actually decrease compression ratio considerably?
I can't see a thicker gasket doing much more than 25-50 points on compression ratio. I know it will change valve timing some too right?
 

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That was our issue. Silber Turbo is a non ball bearing turbo. He claims the .035 oil inlet restrictor will hold back pressure. After I realized it just restricts flow not pressure I decided to bypass the excess oil back to crankcase thru a 5/8" hose. I know the turbos mechanical seal will only hold back less than 30psi correct? (maverick puts out way more than that). Another option would be to do a scavenger pump and a closed loop oil system for the turbo and not the hot engine oil all together. The turbo doesn't need oil pressure hardly at all. I am all ears to options and your experience. Thanks in advance.

On another note does the thicker base gaskets actually decrease compression ratio considerably?
I can't see a thicker gasket doing much more than 25-50 points on compression ratio. I know it will change valve timing some too right?
No, you're on the right track with the restrictor, but the drainback is way too small. I run a 3/4 heater hose for drainback, and it's perfectly straight, so oil can get back. You are bleeding oil away drom the engine for no reason, which is really bad for the motor. The turbo's seal is not really a seal, rather some rings that WILL leak if there is oil around them. Bottom line, the bearing case must be able to flow oil, & not pool up around the turbo shaft.

You can make compression whatever you want by spacing up the jugs. Thicker gasket=less compression.

Valve timing will not be affected on the 1000 motor, since you will be timing the cams with the BRP timing tool, since the cam gears are slotted.
 

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There are a few Turbo feed regulators you can buy.. I agree here tho you need a much larger oil drain.

Also start with very low boost and work your way up with a nice Wideband to monitor Air/fuel.. Pull plugs after a run and check them and see how they look..
 

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Subscribed…..now we are getting somewhere!
 
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yes, please tell us what was/is needed to make this system work.
I will start making a list so when it is dialed in we will know what it takes to make these kits complete.

2 of our mavericks will be running thicker head gaskets but the third we are going to try lower boost with factory compression (and good gas).
 

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Why would you run thicker head gaskets? You can run thicker base gaskets, end result is the same and the price of base gaskets is waay cheaper than head gaskets.
 

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So based on what you know now. Is the Silber kit worth getting and then doing all of the recommended changes/upgrades to get it to work properly? The reason I ask is because they have them listed on eBay for $3500 or Make Offer. So I assume you could pick one of the kits up for $3k...... Most kits usually cost around $5k so was wondering it it was a good deal once you know how to actually set them up....
 

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Let us get the ECM, injectors, etc. installed and tuned first. That way we know we have it worked out.
I will let you know if you should even spend 3k on what you get in the kit. I feel you might be wasting money that is unnecessary since you won't use the dobeck, 3rd injector, BOV, etc..
 

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Got it....thanks
 
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