Can-Am Maverick Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I'm new to the forum and to Can am. Purchased a brand new 2018 X3 XDS (4 seater) last spring from dealer in GA. Due to travel for work I have not rode as much as I would like so far. 21 hours and 185 miles. Machine is totally stock and majority of use has been trail riding outside of the Atlanta area (plus slow driving in the neighborhood that I live in). Was out having fun yesterday at the local off road resort when it started to make a whining noise from the drivetrain when getting back on gas. Stopped and pulled the drive belt cover and being a newbie didn't notice anything unusual. Drove it back to the trailer (gently) and the noise continued and even got worse. Sounded like something was broken in the drive train. Today at home, I did some more research and found the secondary clutch/driven pulley was stuck in an almost fully open position. I was able to remove the drive belt without using any tools. After removing the driven pulley I was able to use a rubber mallet to get it to pop loose and close the sheaves together. I noticed that there were scratches on the outside of the "ramp" top hat on all 3 points where it rides down on the rollers and where it meets closest to the outer sheave. The rollers themselves do not seem to "roll" or at least I can't get them to spin by hand. There is a washer on each roller that doesn't slide easily from the inside to the outside of the roller. I assume the normal position is for the washer to be on the outside of the roller from the centrifugal force and float in between the "ramp" top hat and the outer sheave? I re-attached the driven pulley and attempted to use the oem tool to spread it and to reinstall the belt but about halfway through tightening the tool it froze/stuck again. I have not had a chance to build or buy a compressor tool to disassemble the pulley. Anybody hear of a problem like this? I'm surprised how dry all the parts are. No grease, lube or anything on the rollers or ramp on the top hat. Everything looks brand new and very little dust was on it.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Otherwise taking the pulley to the dealer on Tuesday when they open to see if they know what the problem is. Thank you.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
424 Posts
My guess without seeing it is a broken spring under the helix. Assuming it ran fine for the first 180 miles then broke.

But that’s just a guess...

No grease anywhere in the secondary is a good thing. The only thing to grease in the clutch is the bearing on the primary. The secondary rollers should roll...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
You dont want any grease in there that could get on the belt , sounds like something broke
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
Take pics, I want to see the scratches on the ramps, and rollers. The secondary is pretty easy to take apart with a piece of all-thread. If you have a few bucks to spend, I’d have Adam/Airdam or KWI tune and repair the clutches. At minimum, those guys can get you parts as needed....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
the helix legs get scarred up from use, thats normal. grit and sand and dust become sand paper and will wear grooves into the helix over time. i know you dont have a ton of miles but you can still see slight wear in short amount of time.

if there is actual gouging at such low mileage you can almost suspect the rollers locked up, and are not spinning freely causing the helix leg to drag against the roller, this friction alone will cause rapid wear of the aluminum face of the helix.

locking up like you are reporting sounds much more like a piece of the roller or piece of a belt is stuck down inside the secondary clutch not allowing the two halves to close back together. you should be able to see if one of the rollers is broken, or if you have blown a belt there might be a chunk down inside the secondary that needs to be cleaned out.

to pull the secondary apart you nee a piece of all thread about 18" long, some large washers and nuts. some people will take a 1.5" PVC pipe cap and drill a hole in the center and use the pipe cap against the helix, with washer an nut on the other end against the shaft. snug the assembly down to hold pressure against the spring, and then remove the 3 bolts in the back that hold the clutch together. loosen up on the all thread rod assembly and the clutch will come apart. you can clean and inspect anything from there easily.

if the rollers are broken its time to order some parts, or send them in and have them replaced. there are tons of vendors who sell rollers now, even the OEM rollers work great when installed properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all for the input. I wlll try to get some pics uploaded. The rollers don't move by hand but that could be due to the helix pressure on them? They do not appear broken, but one of them has pitting type marks on it. The ramps of the helix look smooth and good. The scratch/binding marks are on the outside of the heilix ramps where it comes in contact (or is not supposed to) with the ring of the sheave. The belt is intact and did not come apart. Did not see any signs of belt fragment in the housing etc.I ordered a new belt but it has not arrived yet, so can't compare yet. I can see the spring inside the helix but without taking it apart can't tell if it is broken. When I tapped it with the rubber mallet the sheaves did go back to their original position touching each other, so I made the assumption that the spring was intact. Thanks for the insight on building a compressor to take it apart. That certainly is the next step.... Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
the outside of the helix should not touch the clutch in any way. if you have aluminum to aluminum contact anywhere, you have a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Today I was able to take the driven clutch apart and it looks to me like the rollers are completely gone (see pic below). I was able to purchase new Can Am rollers from the dealer but now my question is how to get the old roller pins out to install the new ones? Appears that they are pressed in?

IMG_5782.jpg IMG_5783.jpg
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
424 Posts
Or a slide hammer with 4mm adapter, a good way to anchor the clutch without damaging it, a little heat and some luck...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,975 Posts
how in the heck did you break all three and leave no trace of any parts? wow, did you ever have to cover off to inspect?
Do you think they could have fragmented where they were light enough to be ejected out the clutch exhausted somehow?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
centripetal force pulls them out, they are light, and relatively soft, the fins of the secondary will eject them out the rear snorkel. they wont scratch the face of the clutch up, they are a non-marring compound, at most you will see a polish mark where it hit before it was ejected out.

now i see why his 3 rollers wouldnt roll, those were the hardened pins not the rollers he was looking at.

the clutch was locking up because the leg of the helix hits the aluminum support inside the fixed sheave below the roller. without the roller, the helix will rotate towards the pins so much so, that the helix leg will contact the aluminum in the fixed sheave, this friction between these two surfaces will lock the clutch up and not allow it to open and close. while your helix is out you might want to take a file and clean up the marring on the helix leg.

you will need a tool of some sort to pull the pins. slide hammer, pin puller, they are for sale online, none of them are fun and none of them are extremely effective they all take work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Correct, I didn't see any dirt or debris when I first took the cover off, and not knowing what the actual roller was supposed to look like I thought the metal pins were the rollers....
Thank you everyone for the help. Hopefully will get this fixed and back on the dirt asap!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
You are not kidding about the work to get them out. I borrowed a slide hammer (and torch) and was able to get one pin far enough out to get a new roller in and I snapped the slide hammer in the process. Borrowed another slide hammer and the second pin broke the regular grade 4mm bolts I had gotten, so now need to purchase or fabricate a better slide hammer removal tool. Leads me to my next question, what is the best way to reinstall the pins with new bushings on them . I had to apply a lot of heat to get the first pin to come out but was afraid to immediately put the roller on the pin and reinstall due to the high heat. Can the rollers withstand large amounts of heat? And do you use the slide hammer in reverse to reinstall the pins or is there another way? Can you use a bench press to push the roller pins back in safely?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
If you pull the pins all the way out ,you could put them in the freezer over night to shrink them ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
Buy new pins from rocky mountain and put them in the freezer for a while. No slide hammer for install, just tap them in with a brass punch and hammer. If you really feel the need, you can heat up the housing a bit before tapping in the pins from the freezer.

Heat worked ok when I pulled mine, but after I sprayed them with a lubricating oil they came right out. However, I was using a huge slide hammer at work.

2018.5 X3 Max XRS // Grove Fabworks, Aftermarket Assassins, Dynojet, CT front end, CA Tech, UMP, HSP, Rugged, Sandcraft, blah blah...
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top