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I have a question for anyone that has clocked their secondary to hole #6. I did it this past weekend and am second guessing what I have done. Now looking at WADMASTERS pictures of #6 I think I went too far with mine. I twisted it past the one closest helix leg to it and went to the next one which required a lot muscle. I currently have an E85 tune and 31” 12 paddle Rippers with stock clutch weights and on my last trip I was seeing 7600rpms up the drag hill at Sand Mountain Nv. I know I’ll lose some top end but hopefully not too much. I’ll be back up there this weekend to test out what I have done unless someone can let me know I made a mistake and should change it before I go and maybe just put it in hole #3.
 

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Hmm, wish I could easily find airdam's post to review the degrees of preload, but this new site is hard for me to find anything. You might want to just leave it and see. Any way for you to bring or use a vise at the dunes to make adjustments if necessary? I don't think you will overrev, but you may get more clutch heat and start popping belts.
 

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Good idea, I’ll just mount the vise to the floor in my enclosed trailer and change it if needed.


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Hmm, wish I could easily find airdam's post to review the degrees of preload, but this new site is hard for me to find anything. You might want to just leave it and see. Any way for you to bring or use a vise at the dunes to make adjustments if necessary? I don't think you will overrev, but you may get more clutch heat and start popping belts.
Scroll up, it was just posted. According to the info he posted, hole 1 has the most potential at 90*

That's where mine is and it's DEFINITELY not easy to get there.

2018.5 X3 Max XRS // Grove Fabworks, Aftermarket Assassins, Dynojet, CT front end, CA Tech, UMP, HSP, Rugged, Sandcraft, blah blah...
 

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Oh, didn't realize it was this thread. So I had mine at 80* in hole 5 and it helped 200-300rpm. That was coming from hole 4 too so I more than doubled the preload. I just ordered a clutch kit, said screw it. I have messed with it enough. I would just try it and then pull it off and adjust as necessary. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I made my secondary bolt "yield" many, many times haha, but I would suggest buying another one, if you are going to make several adjustments, since they are allegedly TTY. I have no way to measure mine accurately, but it did not appear any longer than a new one, after being torqued probably 5 or 6 times. If those things stretch, it is only a minimal amount, I just became paranoid after taking the secondary off for a fifth and sixth time. I am currently sitting in hole #5, but have not had a chance to play with it. I ran it in hole #4 most of the year last year, but lost a little rpm after switching to the Bad Ass belt. Recently installed the WBB, and moved the spring, but am not gonna have a chance to see what changed, until it it warms up a tad.

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So I currently switched out the stock 30cryptids to 35s and felt a good amount of power loss was wondering if switching the holes to stiffin the secondary would help at all? It’s currently in the 4th hole position
 

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you check spring pre load with a fish scale
every spring and helix is different
there are many videos on how to check secondary preload
the holes are just for reference
the trick is to have as much pre-load as possible
and still have a good/complete up shift
check top speed for full shift
a pair of vice grip pliers is all you need
unless you want to buy a fancy tool...lol
to hook the fish scale

wow.... you dug up a old thread
 
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