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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Crazy good info in here. I'm beginning to understand how it works after listening to you guys. I also found a video on YouTube from Team Industries I believe, and they ran a belt through a CVT clutch with no cover, and explained things as they changed throttle input. Watching the belt move in the primary and secondary really helped me wrap my head around how they change ratio so quickly and smoothly. Still a lot to learn but it definitely was cool to see it move up and down in the sheeves. I was intimidated at first but after taking it apart, (secondary), it wasn't bad at all. Looking forward to playing with it some more to better understand it. Thanks again to all in here that are knowledgeable and take the time to explain to guys like me that are ignorant on some of this stuff. Glad you guys are active and helpful!

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First off kind of weird you have a 651 belt, I thought all the 18' had 652 belts? At least that's what the dealer told me, and sold me for my 17' XDS.
So with all I've read so far seems like going stiffer on the spring would be good for trail riding with hills, but you would give up some top speed, going looser on spring would take away some bottom end but give higher top speed for fast dune riding, of high speed desert.
One more thing that seems wired with mine is if I'm going slow on an incline it will start to bog out and say shift to low gear on the display, it does it even when I'm loading it in the toy Hauler sometimes, will tightening the spring help that? Thanks.


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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I'm not sure about the belt deal. It's a 2018 model that I purchased new in March. That is a stock belt and it's the first time it has ever been off the machine. Has just over 300 miles on it. I was under the impression the 18' cars had better belts and was told that the RC model in particular had stronger items, one of which being the belt. Either way, I need a spare to keep on hand and I guess this belt will be my spare and I will get one of these new "Bad Ass" belts from Evo. I just took a photo for reference down the road

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use low gear on the dash is a problem with the tune
all the x3s do the same thing when you try to brake torque these cars
its some torque limiter turning on, that was programmed to get more low gear use
 

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it does seem like higher the number the stiffer, but it's all in the clocking. its much more difficult to get the spring correctly clocked on 3 vs. 5. try it...and you must clock it or its not correct.
Not sure if ur aware of it but u kinda come off as a arrogant prick when u post on this forum....but most of the time ur info is on par...try a little harder from now on. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I dont think you sounded like anything other than someone trying to pass along helpful information @ Wadmaster. I really appreciate the input as well btw. Also, I took the RC for a small rip yesterday just playing with short pulls to 40 mph in high gear and the power delivery was much better. Never felt like I was running out of gear and felt as if it had much more top end and still felt super strong out of the hole. The gear ratio now feels more in the meat of the power and not just mostly bottom end. I'm trying to keep it off the roadway as much as possible since I have switched to Roxxzilla's. These tires are some bad mf's but they are soft as he// and the highway eats em up. I will be able to do some good full WOT pulls on Sunday when I go riding. My buddy has a brand new RZR Turbo that is bone stock and he has about 20 hp on me. I can't wait to drag his a** across the field. I tried for months to get him on the Can Am bus but Abernathy's and Benton have been selling the Turbo RZR's for $14,900 for the past week and he was to tight to buy the X3. I want to make him regret his decision haha. I will data log the pulls with my DynoJet Sunday and start keeping some logs that way I have hard data to compare to if and when I adjust my secondary later down the road.

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Are you serious?? Lol. Not sure if you're aware, but you sound like a bitch, whining that someone isn't playing nice with you.

When you're sponsored by can am, you get info from can am..see how that works?



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Lmao u guys are are testy bunch. Anyways to OP I move my buddys hole from 2 to 4 for him today. He too went from the 120hp to the 172hp via the evo kit. He to felt that the clutching needed adjusting after the reflash.
 

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Are you serious?? Lol. Not sure if you're aware, but you sound like a bitch, whining that someone isn't playing nice with you.

When you're sponsored by can am, you get info from can am..see how that works?



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^^^^obviously a superstar. :crazy:
 

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Not sure if ur aware of it but u kinda come off as a arrogant prick when u post on this forum....but most of the time ur info is on par...try a little harder from now on. Thanks
I simply answered your question and asked you the same question...If this makes me an arrogant prick I'm good with that...There's a first for everything...
 

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Does backshift affect engine braking as well? Seems like my car has a TON of engine braking, way more than I'd like. Downhill in 2wd, the rear wheels are almost always slowing down to the point where I'm skidding and losing traction. WOT has me right at about 7500-7600 rpm right now.

I'd like to pick up a few RPM to better work with my Pwrtune stage 2 '18 tune, but I don't want to make the car's engine braking stronger.

I was thinking the high altitude weight kit from Can-am would help me pick up (roughly 500-600) RPM via the primary clutch, and then I could soften the secondary clocking to reduce engine braking and drop some (200-300) RPM back out of it to get right at around 7800.

To the clutching experts in the group - does that sound like I'm on the right track?
 

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Mine feels like almost no engine braking in high 2wd, a little more in 4wd, and a pretty good amount in 4wd low , I never feel the rear lockup , it just slows down.
I take it there are videos I can look up on YouTube that shows how to change spring position, and clock it correctly.
Would be cool to see how different it feels, my clutch makes a lot of chatter noise.
 

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Mine feels like almost no engine braking in high 2wd, a little more in 4wd, and a pretty good amount in 4wd low , I never feel the rear lockup , it just slows down.
I take it there are videos I can look up on YouTube that shows how to change spring position, and clock it correctly.
Would be cool to see how different it feels, my clutch makes a lot of chatter noise.
Kwi has some good videos on how to service and adjust your secondary spring
 

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Just to clarify. In stock form the XRCTR is in position 4 and to go one hole stiffer I would go to #3 not #5?
yes sir...just make sure you turn the back of the secondary until roller is past the next helix arm. you must rotate or clock the secondary...if its correct you'll probably need a 2nd set of hands while rotating the sheeve and getting the rollers into the helix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
You'll see how it works when you go to put it back together. It's rather simple really. I went from hole #4 to hole # 2 I believe. I lowered my rpms by about 450.

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