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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got tired of the rubber feet in the back of the seat base allowing so much movement. I removed them, and this lowered the back of the seat 3/4". I then cut away a little bit of the plastic surrounding the base mount so it would rest on the frame. I put a 1/2" washer in the large holes that were left where the rubber feet were and welded them in. I notched a bit of plastic from where the latch is so it would move freely. I then welded a u-bolt in for the latch to latch onto, because it no longer lined up with the original pin. The og pin was also bending do to the rubber feet allowing too much movement. The u-bolt will be stronger. I did unbolt the seat from the base when I started this project. The seat now leans back farther, is lower, feels more comfortable, and this eliminated about 80-90% of the free play. I also welded a thick piece of steel into the latch where it strikes the pin so it won't wear so much.
 

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Awesome!

The wobbly seat was one of the first things I noticed about the demo. It didn't annoy me then, but I bet would be on a longer ride while strapped in via harness.
 

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Good Ideal. I really do not like the seat movement on my Commander however most of it comes from the slider on the drivers seat in mine. I have considered replacing the softer rubber with Urathane.
 

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Interesting. I like the extra strength from the u bolt. Gives me more to think about when I tackle my loose seat.
 

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Seat bases are disappointing at best. Started looking mine over yesterday to see what it needs and for the first time I noticed how narrow the frame rails are on the drivers side. They are just to close together to ever give solid lateral support but I guess there's not much to do about that. I am considering welding the rear corners of the seat base to the radius edge of the seat frame to stiffen things up. Most of the slop is in the slide rails anyhow and the only way to fix that is to remove it or weld it solid in place. So I'm thinking weld up the sliders and weld the rear seat base to the seat frame for better lateral support and I'll be good. My latch pins are in good shape now but if they get loose I can weld in a u bolt as a pin like Glamisfan did. Have to weld a cross bar on the front of the seat base for the sub belt anyhow so I guess it's time to get this one started.
I like the thought of replacing the rubber feet with urethane and I inserted a pair of fender washers between the seat base and the sliders on the front only to give the seat a bit more recline. That helps a lot.
Finally reached the point where I don't even have enough good scrap metal pieces laying around to do a small job like this so who knows when I'll get around to making a trip to the metal yard and get new stuff.
 

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Has anyone removed the pins that the rear of the seat sits on and welded in threaded studs? I got the seat all sured up so there is no slop in the seat itself by removing the slider and replacing it with 1" square tubing and actually bolting the seat back and base to the frame since the cheesy self tapping screws in the plastic base and back rest keep loosening up after every ride. But the seat just doesn't sit tight in the chassis so I have been contemplating removing the rubber feet and welding threaded studs in place of the pins. I would weld some washers in place of the rubber feet like Glamisfan did so the fit was snug and then secure it in place with some NYLOC nuts. I don't take my seats out very often because of the harnesses so bolting them down would not be too big of a deal to me…..and it looks like you could get an air ratchet between the seat bottom and back to remove them pretty easily…..anyone have any feedback on this idea or other suggestions on high to make the seat feel like it is an integral part of the chassis???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's not a bad idea! It would give you a solid feel. Just be sure you can still remove the seat for a trail side belt change.
 

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That's not a bad idea! It would give you a solid feel. Just be sure you can still remove the seat for a trail side belt change.
After reading that last post I agree 100%. Solid & secure is good but it still needs to be easy & quick to remove for a belt change while out on a ride.
 

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I agree. With the seat frame bolted down, you would no longer need the latch in the center so you could remove it all together and then you would be able get a socket wrench in there without issue. Just make sure you have one in your tool kit!
 

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Well the mods I did helped tighten up the seat to the frame but the seat frame still rattles around in the chassis and it is driving me crazy…..so I had thought about cutting off the pins in the rear that the rubber feet slide over and welding on some threaded studs. But I am not a welder and I am not known for having much patience so i decided to try and see if I could thread the pins themselves. Sure enough, they were solid steel and were able to threaded with my tap and die set. I used a 10mm X 1.5 die and some cutting oil and went to town. The threads are much cleaner than the picture portrays and I only cut in enough threads to snug everything down. When I torque down the nut, it actually bottoms out on the unthreaded portion of the pin. In order to have enough threads to secure a nut, I cut about 3/8" off of the bottom of the rubber feet. I then stacked a large washer and then a thicker smaller washer on top of the rubber feet and then installed the nut and torqued it down until it bottomed out on the unthreaded portion of the pin. I plan on replacing the washers with a higher grade metal and using a NYLOC nut so it will not vibrate off but this is what I had in my inventory tonight so I used what I had to mock it up….it feels extremely secure now and only has minimal flex due to the fact that I still have the rubber feet in the equation…..if this doesn't cure the problem, I will go to plan "B" which is to remove the rubber feet all together and weld some high grade washers to the rear feet of the seat frame and bolt it directly to the chassis….

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