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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI Gents,
I know this has been covered many times. I've read all threads. Just a quick question
Few things to rule out:
  1. RAD - Clean very little mud ever but double checked to be sure its clean
  2. Fan is coming on strong moving lots of heat away from RAD
  3. Machine cools quickly once stopped - Pretty sure the water pump is working fine
  4. No bubbling in the reservoir tank - so i'm pretty sure its not a head gasket
  5. Not going into limp mode - But I have seen the high temp warning one time after hard dune riding in the heat this past weekend
  6. Machine is running around 5-6 bars and will escalate to 8-9 bars with hard riding. )Never done this before, always stays 4 bars or below.

Question - I'm hitting the RAD and RAD Hose and the temps are coming back around 160 but the machine is reading 5 bars around 210 (AT IDLE). I'm thinking Temp Sensor but want to make sure I'm getting a reading at the proper place. I honestly cant get a reading to match the machine temp anywhere except where the turbo meets the head of the motor.
I am surprised my turbo/exhaust manifold where it meets the head of the motor just under the rear rack is GLOWING within around 3 min of just idling and reading something like 575 degrees. Maybe that is normal but that is the only place I can find heat anywhere near what the temp gauge is reading. Haven't considered the TStat yet. Trying to rule out some more obvious items. Still plan on doing a full system flush and making a move to Engine Ice and EVO Tune for a bit better temp/fuel management.
 

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I'm thinking it could be a lean condition? Is your car tuned?
 

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I have been thru all the things your considering . Replaced both Temp Sensor and Thermostat to no avail. Same temp readings your getting with the infrared etc. Replaced the fan and coolant. What I discovered is the radiator fins get bent over from washing and/or debris. Both of these items reduce the radiator cooling efficiently a lot. Check those' I also installed a Dynajet PV3 that allows reducing the fan on/off temps along with a 15 HP crank increase. Note if you do use the supplied tune Dynajet will need to make the changes. My last ride it was running hot so this week I removed the radiator and discovered the back side fins are bent. After screwing around with it for an hour I decided to just replace the radiator as many of the fins are damaged. I really considered the aftermarket TCP radiator however the same thing can happen to the fins I opted to go with an OEM replacement. I can replace it 5 times before I getting to the coast of a TCP Mudder addition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have been thru all the things your considering . Replaced both Temp Sensor and Thermostat to no avail. Same temp readings your getting with the infrared etc. Replaced the fan and coolant. What I discovered is the radiator fins get bent over from washing and/or debris. Both of these items reduce the radiator cooling efficiently a lot. Check those' I also installed a Dynajet PV3 that allows reducing the fan on/off temps along with a 15 HP crank increase. Note if you do use the supplied tune Dynajet will need to make the changes. My last ride it was running hot so this week I removed the radiator and discovered the back side fins are bent. After screwing around with it for an hour I decided to just replace the radiator as many of the fins are damaged. I really considered the aftermarket TCP radiator however the same thing can happen to the fins I opted to go with an OEM replacement. I can replace it 5 times before I getting to the coast of a TCP Mudder addition.
I read your threads and was wondering exactly where you landed with your challenges. I too am looking at the TCP but its pricey. Does come with a nice fan motor upgrade. The fins on the mudder edition of the TCP seem a bit stouter and less likely to bend as easily but I see your point on the cost differences. So ultimately did the radiator fix the issue for you?
 

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Still waiting for it to come in. Even with the old radiator fixing the fins when it started to run hot solved the problem for the most part. Had I discovered the bent fins on the back side before, I suspect it would have solved it 100%. Note I also have my fan coming on at 185 degrees in lieu of the factory setting of 205 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm thinking it could be a lean condition? Is your car tuned?
Hollywood - Unless I got some bad gas - entirely possible the tune I have has been on there for 3 years with no problems in the past.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Has anyone tried the radiator refill kits that pressure test for leaks? I am not losing any fluid that I can tell but the kits aren't expensive and could come in handy if I have future coolant issues to rule our small leaks.
 

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Hollywood - Unless I got some bad gas - entirely possible the tune I have has been on there for 3 years with no problems in the past.
OK, so we can probably rule the tune out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OP have you actually looked at the radiator fins?
Nope but based on our chat its the next thing i'm checking. Looking up all the bolts to pull the front fascia off in one piece as we speak.
Going to do the flush because its never been done since new so its probably due.
Going to replace the temp sensor just as a precaution since the temps seem to be off based on what I can hit with an IR Gun
Check the front and rear of the RAD and try to straighten fins if possible. If not. Replace RAD.
 

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Have you ruled out an air bubble?
 

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I have been thru all the things your considering . Replaced both Temp Sensor and Thermostat to no avail. Same temp readings your getting with the infrared etc. Replaced the fan and coolant. What I discovered is the radiator fins get bent over from washing and/or debris. Both of these items reduce the radiator cooling efficiently a lot. Check those' I also installed a Dynajet PV3 that allows reducing the fan on/off temps along with a 15 HP crank increase. Note if you do use the supplied tune Dynajet will need to make the changes. My last ride it was running hot so this week I removed the radiator and discovered the back side fins are bent. After screwing around with it for an hour I decided to just replace the radiator as many of the fins are damaged. I really considered the aftermarket TCP radiator however the same thing can happen to the fins I opted to go with an OEM replacement. I can replace it 5 times before I getting to the coast of a TCP Mudder addition.
If you splash through deeps puddle and jump back into the dust, or play in the mud... The TCP mudder is the only way to go. Best upgrade on my machine. It's also thicker than the stock rad. and a triple bypass design.

I read your threads and was wondering exactly where you landed with your challenges. I too am looking at the TCP but its pricey. Does come with a nice fan motor upgrade. The fins on the mudder edition of the TCP seem a bit stouter and less likely to bend as easily but I see your point on the cost differences. So ultimately did the radiator fix the issue for you?
The TCP doesn't come with a fan motor and I dont think the fins are actually any stouter but if it bends a little, it's not closing off airflow like the stock one will.
 

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Before you replace the sensor hit its location with the infrared. if its within 5 degrees then I would leave it in. It's located above the water pump to the left of the oil cooler on passenger side of machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Before you replace the sensor hit its location with the infrared. if its within 5 degrees then I would leave it in. It's located above the water pump to the left of the oil cooler on passenger side of machine.
The engine gauge is reading 210 after about 3 or 4 minutes of ideling and the fan kicks on which suprised me how quickly it got that hot. The engine case around where the sensor is and all the radiator hoses are only reading around 150-160. So there's a big discrepancy in the temps from the IR Gun and what the engine shows. Figured I would sneak a peek at the water pump as well just to make sure the plastic fins aren't broken on it while I have the machine drained of fluid and replacing the sensor.
I'm planning on putting a vacuum on the coolant system before I refill to make sure i'm not finding any leaks in the system before I refill with fluid.
 

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The engine gauge is reading 210 after about 3 or 4 minutes of ideling and the fan kicks on which suprised me how quickly it got that hot. The engine case around where the sensor is and all the radiator hoses are only reading around 150-160. So there's a big discrepancy in the temps from the IR Gun and what the engine shows. Figured I would sneak a peek at the water pump as well just to make sure the plastic fins aren't broken on it while I have the machine drained of fluid and replacing the sensor.
I'm planning on putting a vacuum on the coolant system before I refill to make sure i'm not finding any leaks in the system before I refill with fluid.
Still thinking possible air bubble. Have you tried burping the system?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you splash through deeps puddle and jump back into the dust, or play in the mud... The TCP mudder is the only way to go. Best upgrade on my machine. It's also thicker than the stock rad. and a triple bypass design.



The TCP doesn't come with a fan motor and I dont think the fins are actually any stouter but if it bends a little, it's not closing off airflow like the stock one will.
I dont play in the mud if I can avoid it. The website https://www.tcpperformance.com/can-am-maverick-radiator-accessories shows it comes with a new SPAL fan motor that pumps out an extra 30% on the CFms. The kit is $850 for both.
 

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Yea 50 degrees delta "T" is a lot and for it to get over 200 degrees in that short period of time does suggest a defective sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea 50 degrees delta "T" is a lot and for it to get over 200 degrees in that short period of time does suggest a defective sensor.
I was quite surprised it got that hot so fast. Wondering if its not opening the TStat due to the sensor. I figure its worth replacing it and seeing what it does. I couldn't find anything on the car that read 200+ degrees unless I shot near the turbo inlet at the top of the motor.
Still going to check out and straighten any fins and make sure both sides of the RAD are clean and undamaged.
 

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In theory the TCP fan shroud is a great ideal however the only way to get the mud out is to remove it. To me that's too much of a PITA. The thermostat is mechanical so the sensor has no effect on it.
 
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