Under the plastic roof in the rear corners are some factory holes. I like to mount the antenna in those and use a core drill bit to make a hole in the plastic roof for the antenna to come through. Makes for a good spot to be able to pull the antenna off when putting it in the trailer.

It’s ideal to mount it in the center of a metal roof but you don’t have one... so in your cases it’s better to use the https://blackmarketutv.com/collect...v.com/collections/bm-utv-favorites/products/vhf-1-2-wave-antenna-vhf-144-174mhz antenna that doesn’t require the ground.

 

As for the radio, depending on the wiring setup, I normally ground it the chassis using a self tapping screw. I sand an area so it’s bare metal. Pick a spot on the chassis that’s under the plastic.

 

That’s what I did you will have to get the 10” extension or it won’t make it

 

I made a bracket that bolts to the cage, i also sanded and grounded to the chassis

 

So I need to sand the area under the roof? Also a 10 inch extension to the antenna cord?

 

I didn’t and yes it will extend from the radio to the cable

 

I sand everything i use as a ground then coat it with electrical grease

 

I appreciate everyone’s help. If anyone can post pics of the suggestions, a lot of what you’re saying may be Greek to me....for now!

 

This is what I have..
.

 

Looks like you already have a 1/2 antenna! No ground plan is required. It's still best to make good contact at the NMO connection.

 

Rugged has lots of youtube videos explaining most of this stuff.

 

I have a bunch of experience in this area. I’ve responded to lots of threads over the years so I’ll try to help out here as well. First, is your radio single or dual band? That will determine what type of antenna you need. It will need to be a “no ground plane” antenna. Be sure the antenna has a spring on it so it won’t break off if you have low overhead clearance on the trails. Next, mounting. Best to mount to the chassis and the options are endless. The higher up on the car the better. A clamp style bracket on the chassis itself or a bracket that uses the two factory bolts behind the roof are a good place to start. Ground the NMO mount like Rugged suggests in their video. I like to use the main chassis ground on the right side of the car where all of the factory grounds go since it’s already sanded down. Once you have that figured out, route the antenna cable and use the full length of the cable. Don’t cut it and don’t loop it anywhere as that will cause issues. After the complete install you will need to tune the antenna for YOUR setup. If you are not familiar with antenna tuning find a ham radio guy near you as they are always willing to help and have the equipment and experience to do it right.

As far as antenna suggestions you can get a great dual band antenna that works very well that’s about 18” tall and has a center-loading coil on it which allows tuning for both bands for best performance. There is no need to have a 30+ inch antenna for your intended use. Stay away from the “NUB” antenna they are typically junk and can’t be tuned. Feel free to ask more questions and I will help any way I can.

 

Hopefully OP doesnt mind me riding his thread, I can create a separate thread if its at all an issue?

I assume this was directed at me, if so Thank You for any advice!

First, is your radio single or dual band? That will determine what type of antenna you need.

Rugged Radio White body Model: RM60-V , from the above it sounds like it is not a dual band?

Just started getting into this topic this week, so very green...apologies if I misunderstand anything. I believe it is an older model, but I think it will suit me OK based on a few pieces of feedback.

When should a person consider the newer digital models over an existing older model like the RM60-V ?

It will need to be a “no ground plane” antenna. Be sure the antenna has a spring on it so it won’t break off if you have low overhead clearance on the trails.

I have a flat aluminum roof, does this detail change anything todo with a ground plane?

Overly simplified question, but is there a way to mount an antenna that maximizes its durability if low branches are a constant and persistent hinderance, and are there specific models to look at or for that excel at that specifically?

Can the spring base be mounted slightly lower to allow a bent radius if/when it is folded over?

Next, mounting. Best to mount to the chassis and the options are endless. The higher up on the car the better. A clamp style bracket on the chassis itself or a bracket that uses the two factory bolts behind the roof are a good place to start.

This is the proposed mounting position, rear passenger side, but open to advice where to move it for optimization.

Ground the NMO mount like Rugged suggests in their video. I like to use the main chassis ground on the right side of the car where all of the factory grounds go since it’s already sanded down. Once you have that figured out, route the antenna cable and use the full length of the cable. Don’t cut it and don’t loop it anywhere as that will cause issues. After the complete install you will need to tune the antenna for YOUR setup. If you are not familiar with antenna tuning find a ham radio guy near you as they are always willing to help and have the equipment and experience to do it right.

Any reason or benefit to running a dedicated ground wire to any points?

As far as antenna suggestions you can get a great dual band antenna that works very well that’s about 18” tall and has a center-loading coil on it which allows tuning for both bands for best performance. There is no need to have a 30+ inch antenna for your intended use. Stay away from the “NUB” antenna they are typically junk and can’t be tuned. Feel free to ask more questions and I will help any way I can.

Thank You, of the various tiers of antennas how does a person select the correct one for their specific needs and application, what consideration are important?

 

@"JDBPFLYER

here is what I have from Rugged

• 1) Radio and Intercom Mount for Can-Am Maverick X3
• (1) RRP696 Rugged Intercom
• (2) 12' Intercom Cables
• (2) Alpha Audio Offroad Helmet Kits
• (1) RM-60 60-Watt Radio
• (1) Wide Band ¼ Wave Antenna with Spring
• (1) UNI-MAG - Universal NMO Antenna Mount
• (1) Coil Cord Driver Push-to-Talk Button
• (1) Straight Cord Co-Driver Push-to-Talk Button
• (1) Audio Filter
• (1) Antenna Ground Strap
• (1) Radio and Intercom Ground Strap

 

Radio looks to be dual band

 

RM-60 Is not dual band. It is uses 136 to 174 MHZ.

Tim

 

From my experience the wave of the antenna does not seem to make much difference.

Tuning the antenna does make a huge difference. Tim

 

Your radio is in the VHF band only 136-174 as stated above. If the antenna is a Rugged purchase, like I think it is, your choice should have been

VHF 1/2 Wave Antenna (VHF 144-174Mhz) VHF 1/2 Wave Antenna (144-174Mhz) [VHF-1/2W-SPR] - $36.00 : Rugged Radios: Headsets, Intercoms, 2-Way Racing Radios and Communication for UTV, Motorcycles, Offroad, Circle Track, Aviation, Racing, NASCAR, Police, and more...

Like Tim said, tuning the antenna is crucial to proper performance. For example, an antenna that has an SWR of 1.2:1 is only losing a negligible amount of it's output power where as an antenna that has an SWR of 2:1 is losing slightly more than half of it's power. So if your radio is a 60 watt, having a 2:1 SWR means you are only getting a little less than 30 watts of power being transmitted.

Based on your parts list you will need some sort of antenna mount as I suggested above. Do not mount it on the plastic roof !

Also, I'm not sure you will be happy with the speaker in the helmet. I have several buddies that set theirs up like that and complained about the audio not being loud enough and poor quality. They eventually ended up getting some in-ear type (like plugfones) and they have been very happy since. It makes helmet installation easier as well since it's basically a harness with a mic and a jack for the plugfones to plug into. Before you commit to installing the kit you have, look in to my suggestion.

 

Thanks, I purchased the Alpha Bass headsets as opposed to the helmet ear phones.

 

Unless you have a flat metal roof to use as a ground plane and can mount the antenna in the center of that, then get the 1/2 wave NMO antenna. You can mount it anywhere, including the plastic roof as long as you ground it. For 11 bucks you can buy a couple of wires, one of which grounds the antenna to the frame and the other one grounds the radio and intercom to the frame.

 

Ok, let me say first I appreciate all the input from everyone. I got into this hobby solo, so I can only rely on the forum. I am posting pictures of what I have as far as radio and ground wire

 

Wow

 

This reply will be for DarkPoacher. Your radio is NOT a RM-60 from the picture you sent so some of the comments I made in my post will be different due to the different radio. The radio you have IS a dual-band, and digital to boot. Fancy for sure. In your case, the antenna you choose will be a dual band no ground plane antenna. It should be about 18 inches in length and have the ability to tune both sections for best performance. Again it should have a spring on it at the base. Look into the Ham Radio world for these antennas since they have the best possible performance and are specifically designed for mobile use. I don’t personally like any of the Rugged offerings for this application. Try something like this:

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/comet-ss-460sbnmo-8129

 

Ok this post is for PNW:
Since you have an aluminum roof, you will get the best performance by mounting your antenna in the center of the roof and using a ground plane antenna. Also, your radio is single (VHF) band. That makes things easier. As for the digital vs analog, the radio you have will suit you well for years to come. While Rugged is getting into the digital radios, the vast majority of users will remain analog for decades and the digital side of the radio is hardly being utilized at all. Your radio, being an “older” model actually allows you to transmit and receive on frequencies that the newer radios only will receive on, due to the FCC coming down hard on Rugged for doing some “questionable” things that were not exactly legal for a while. I could go on and on about that but I’ll stick to your questions first.

Mount the antenna in the center of the roof. Sand the roof where the NMO mount will contact it top and bottom side. No need to change the angle, straight up is fine. A good antenna has a spring and the mast itself is flexible enough to handle the low overhead brush all day long. The 1/2 wave antenna from Rugged is fine although there are other options from the Ham world as well. Typically ground plane antennas will work better overall as the signal has a better radiation pattern than the no ground plane but for this application with the metal roof, ground plane is definitely the way to go. Rule of thumb for single band is the longer the better so the length of about 50 inches. Consider this:

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-b1443s-737

For your application, I always suggest grounding, either the mount or the roof. The mount is easier to do and can result in a clean looking installation done properly. Otherwise, you can ground the roof, again sanding off the paint, and running a wire from one of the mounting points to a good chassis ground. See comments on where I mount the ground wire to the chassis in the previous post.

 

Thank You Very Much for the feedback!

Are there places for the motivated, yet very new to learn about this subject in greater detail that is UTV specific? I have previously looked through the backlog of threads here for basics, now that I have a little more focus, there may be more relevant information on a second time through.

I will be looking for your user name for more info on the topic here, but might there be other places that would help clarify some of the bigger points to understand and know about with radios and intercoms?

Thanks!

 

Thanks JDBPFLYER, so the antenna that came in the kit looks to have a spring. Based on what you’re saying the antenna current length is about 39.5, so I should cut it down to 18”

 

NOOOOOOOOO !
What I’m saying is that your radio is dual band from the picture you provided. That antenna is the WRONG one for your application.

 

The antenna is only wrong of he plans to transmit on both bandwidths.

I suspect as with most guys he will be using the typical frequencies that are preprogrammed and that antenna will work fine if that's the case.

It's not that he cannot transmit UHF it just will not be very efficient. I highly doubt he will be using that bandwidth anyway.

If it were me I would tune the antenna for the VHF frequency range and use that one. Just my opinion and its worth what you paid for it.

Tuning the antenna is very much worth the time and trouble. Like was said the antenna should never be cut unless you're tuning it.

Tim

 

Stop overthinking everything, we aren't designing friggin rockets here. Install that damn antenna, hook it to the radio and start talking.

 

Well the use of the radio will be completely up to the OP but I am giving advice based on what the radio is capable of, not what the use might be. This way my advice is not only technically correct, but practical as well. What anyone does with it is their business.

For PNW trails: What else do you want to know? I can either help or direct you to the resources you seek. If it's radio theory, you have LOTS of reading to do. If it's programming, frequency utilization, etc. I can help there as well. If it's UTV specific setups, there is a wealth of knowledge here on the forum, just ask the right questions.

 

For PNW trails: What else do you want to know? I can either help or direct you to the resources you seek. If it's radio theory, you have LOTS of reading to do. If it's programming, frequency utilization, etc. I can help there as well. If it's UTV specific setups, there is a wealth of knowledge here on the forum, just ask the right questions.

I am clearly at the "dont know what I dont know stage"... So being able to find relevant content that is directly relatable to UTV use will anchor my understanding of the topic, I think I know from passive talk on the subject a person could go Very deep into it, I know there are people that make it more than just a hobby, but a lifestyle in a way.

Not looking to get that deep into it, but finding a good group of knowledgeable and Patient people enthusiastically willing to pass on knowledge to the younger generation.

If i were to narrow down the desirable topics I think I know a little about, it would be the science of antenna tuning, and optimizing the propagation of EMF, maybe understanding the "basics" of the physics behind the characteristics of radio waves utilized, what they are intrinsically good at, and bad at. Understanding which part of the spectrum is more capable at long range transmission, or close bandwidth.

I have a LOT to learn, and I am certain I dont have a clue what the right things to request are.

So just finding the "Right" group to observe and read what they have to say will develop a bit of background and enough understanding that i might eventually be able to ask a question and lead myself into the parts that are relevant for practical use ATM.

Assuming that has enough detail to point me in the right direction?

Right now practical utilitarian knowledge on hardware and even building DIY headsets would be Very interesting to me! Maybe even a roll your own wireless BT with PTT helmets, but that might be asking a bit much...

 

As to Zambo and Tmesic, you both have valid points however if the OP shows up for a group ride and someone is using FRS or GMRS frequencies (which often happens) he will be at a significant disadvantage with that antenna setup. UHF is gaining popularity especially in the southwest as repeaters are going up all the time, vastly increasing range and the ability to call for help when you're in an area with nonexistent cell service. Don't discount the UHF band, it has it's purpose. I would prefer to give advice that is as complete as I know it to be. Your responses are duly noted and appreciated.