[Bezilla06]

Well this is my newest battle scar. Last night I pulled out into a dirt road, made it about 500 feet and found this. I pulled it apart when I got home and my best guess is the wheel bearing blew apart which allowed the axel to bounce around until it finally gave up. It took the brake caliper with it too.

 

[SCOTTDMAX]

Wow, that sucks! Stick a fork in those parts! How many miles do you have on your Mav? Looks to me like a wheel seal failed, allowing water to enter and eventually destroying the bearing. Play it safe and replace all parts that show any degree of wear or damage. Also better check the other side for looseness or wear. Good luck to you, and hope you're back on the trails soon!

 

[Jsmith]

Dammit man.

 

[AReed]

Your problem was the axle shaft breaking, not the wheel bearing. If you can find the threaded stub with the nut the threaded part measures .700". This is a design flaw from Can Am. Gorilla is the only company making the outer CV with a .800 threaded stub that is made from a much better material being properly heat treated 4340. You can buy that outer CV from gorilla for about. $250 and put it on you factory shaft. That's the same setup I'm running now. I've broke 2 factory outers and 1 Cobra outer so far.
Right now I'm in the process of working with RCV in making a different outer that's much stronger than stock and will resolve that issue for racers and play toys.

 

[Bezilla06]

Your problem was the axle shaft breaking, not the wheel bearing. If you can find the threaded stub with the nut the threaded part measures .700". This is a design flaw from Can Am. Gorilla is the only company making the outer CV with a .800 threaded stub that is made from a much better material being properly heat treated 4340. You can buy that outer CV from gorilla for about. $250 and put it on you factory shaft. That's the same setup I'm running now. I've broke 2 factory outers and 1 Cobra outer so far.
Right now I'm in the process of working with RCV in making a different outer that's much stronger than stock and will resolve that issue for racers and play toys.

I'm going to have to look into that I'm ruff on this thing but I didn't think I was that ruff.

 

[AReed]

I have a lot of info on the subject so if you want to talk about it and options feel free to call me.

 

[AReed]

I feel your pain though

 

[AReed]

Also when you order parts go ahead and order a hub. They aren't the strongest ones on the planet and it probably bent a tad. Could you not tell in the brakes that something was wrong?

 

[Bezilla06]

Also when you order parts go ahead and order a hub. They aren't the strongest ones on the planet and it probably bent a tad. Could you not tell in the brakes that something was wrong?

The brakes went soft on me I had to pump them a bit but honestly it was 2am and the first time I've had it out in the snow so i didn't think much of it. I figured that was just an issue I'd have to address when I got home.

 

[AReed]

I hear ya. "Brake fade" like that it the biggest way of knowing that it's about to happen

 

[PLAY-DOH]

Looks like the same problems I had with my rhino, did that 3 times and finally got so mad I sold it. Now I've got the same issue to watch for in the future! I'm going to jack it up and check it today

 

[BlueCoyote]

Classic axle snout failure - also a member of that club. ANY side impact or hard use and this can result. Not a bad idea to check the nut torque, and be sure the nut is not bottoming out. Once the nut loosens or shaft breaks it all loosens and chews itself apart.
ALSO - the factory service manual sez to apply loctite to the shaft & hub when reassembeling. Yet from the factory they are built w/o and loctite. The lack of loctite may allowing the hub to move about and adding to the snout failure.
Patiently awaiting a pair of CT Racing rear axle outer ends..

 

[Chappy227]

Your problem was the axle shaft breaking, not the wheel bearing. If you can find the threaded stub with the nut the threaded part measures .700". This is a design flaw from Can Am. Gorilla is the only company making the outer CV with a .800 threaded stub that is made from a much better material being properly heat treated 4340. You can buy that outer CV from gorilla for about. $250 and put it on you factory shaft. That's the same setup I'm running now. I've broke 2 factory outers and 1 Cobra outer so far.
Right now I'm in the process of working with RCV in making a different outer that's much stronger than stock and will resolve that issue for racers and play toys.

Have you had and failures since going with the CV from gorilla?

 

[AReed]

The biggest thing is making sure the axle nut is tight. About 150-200 ft lbs tight with lock tight and the thickest cotter pin you can fit in there. What's happening is the the axle stretches slightly and the washer cones in creating some slop in it. The hub starts moving on the splines and pretty much pries the snout off and since the axle is so hard its brittle and pop goes the axle.

 

[AReed]

No I have not had any issue with the Gorilla outers. I think they're moving in the right direction and they have a great company making the outers but there's still a little bit more to do. I considered making entire hub/spindle assemblies for the guys that I sponsor racing but by the time we machine the new hubs and broach them the price would be through the roof and factory parts would no longer work. It's fine to make something badass but if the availability becomes an issue cause it's a custom part it's not worth having.

 

[Bezilla06]

The biggest thing is making sure the axle nut is tight. About 150-200 ft lbs tight with lock tight and the thickest cotter pin you can fit in there. What's happening is the the axle stretches slightly and the washer cones in creating some slop in it. The hub starts moving on the splines and pretty much pries the snout off and since the axle is so hard its brittle and pop goes the axle.

So I've been think about this all day 150-200ft lbs is ridiculous. How can I even do that?

 

[AReed]

Put your big girl pants on

 

[Chappy227]

With a 1/2" torque wrench that's not at as much as you think it would be. It is a lot of lbs but its really not that bad.

 

[AReed]

Leverage is the key here. It's honestly not as much as you would think. Red lock tight the crap out of it too.

 

[MiMav]

I have a I/2 inch drive torque wrench that goes to 200 ft/lbs. My Chevy 2500 HD Duramax has OEM torque spec of 140 ft/lbs for the lug nuts and I can torque it very easy.