Can-Am Maverick Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
while greasing mine during my pre-season maintenance I found the lower rear shock spacers worn to almost nothing. I only have 880 miles on my mav and greased them about 400 miles ago, found nothing wrong then. I guess its time for new bolts and spacers.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,621 Posts
Wow, that does seem like excessive wear
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thinking of this problem i wonder if i made thick washers and drilled out the mounting holes then used a fullsize bolt in the eye of the shock. The ball would still move and the o-rings would still keep out the dirt. hmmmm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
thinking of this problem i wonder if i made thick washers and drilled out the mounting holes then used a fullsize bolt in the eye of the shock. The ball would still move and the o-rings would still keep out the dirt. hmmmm
Think about it for a minute….he isn't having a problem in the front….why, because there is not a heat issue except on the rears…..The radiant heat from the exhaust dry them out quickly and they are more prone to dirt and water intrusion because of the location….I have had 6 of my rear O-Rings fail. Meaning, they have degraded and allowed dirt and water into the spherical bearing area or have actually popped out past the bushing and in several cases, gotten pinched/cut. I deal a lot with different rubber compounds in my line of work so I know the differences between the different types of rubber materials and there characteristics. With that said, I have done some research and have been evaluating 3 different compounds of O-Rings on 3 different Mavericks:

1. Nitrile (Buna-N) O-rings - These are 70-durometer (black in color) Nitrile O-rings. Able to withstand temperatures ranging from -30 to +200°F. These are basically the stock O-rings and are your basic Nitrile rubber material. There are 2 factors you really need to consider when using this material. One is the temperature range. At only +200°F, you are pushing these to their operating limits and at the upper range they will become very soft and actually absorbent allowing water and mud to be wicked into the rubber and into the inner spherical bearing area. The second factor is this compounds lack of compatibility to most of the chemicals and additives found in many of the greases and lubricants available today. They will break down quickly and lose there elasticity and become softer or even dry and brittle rendering them ineffective against stopping water and contaminants from entering the bearing area. You most likely notice the black color of your grease when you remove the shock for servicing. This is actually the rubber breaking down and dissolving into the grease (not good).

2. Silicone O-rings - These are also 70-durometer (red in color) Silicone O-rings. Able to withstand temperatures ranging from -80 to +300°F. These are a major step up from the standard Nitrile rubber O-rings. They offer 260% lower and 150% higher temperature range than the Nitrile O-rings. This is especially important on the rear shocks due to the excessive heat they are subjected too. Although more compatible than Nitrile rubber, there are still a few lubricants that they are not compatible with so I would recommend a good quality marine grade wheel bearing/hub grease.

3. Fluorocarbon (*Viton®) O-rings - These are 75-durometer Fluorocarbon (FKM) or better known as Viton® O-rings. (Black or brown in color) They offer excellent resistance to chemicals and a wider range of temperatures. These are suitable for applications ranging from -10 to 450°F. These are also a major step up from the standard Nitrile rubber O-rings. They can withstand 225% higher temperatures than the Nitrile O-rings and 150% higher than the Silicone O-rings. They do not do as well in extreme cold conditions so if you intend to ride in the winter months at temperatures below 0°F these may not be the O-rings for you. The Viton® rubber is compatible with just about every lubricant that I can find.

As I mentioned, I have been evaluating these 3 different materials on my Maverick as well as 2 others in my area. The Nitrile rubber O-rings (same as OEM) begin to degrade almost immediately and show signs of failure within 100 miles of service. Both the Silicone Viton® O-rings have held up fine and are currently at 450+ miles of service and counting. My conclusion thus far is that the best all around material based on price and effectiveness is the Silicone O-rings. The reason is they are about 5X cheaper than the Viton® O-rings and are more than capable of withstanding the temperatures they are subjected to on the rear of the Maverick at +300°F and can also be used in extreme cold temperatures as well without becoming hard and losing its pliability.

Can Am wants $9.99 each for the Nitrile rubber O-rings! That is $40 per shock or $160 for all 4 shocks. In order to do the evaluation, I had to but these in bulk quantities so needless to say I have lots of extras. I have inventory of all 3 types and will be selling them to anyone who might be interested. Here are the prices for each:

1. Nitrile (Buna-N) O-rings - $3.25 per shock (4ea) or $12 for all 4 shocks (16ea)

2. Silicone O-rings - $5.25 per shock (4ea) or $19 for all 4 shocks (16ea)

3. Fluorocarbon (*Viton®) O-rings - $12.95 per shock (4ea) or $45 for all 4 shocks (16ea)


Shoot me a PM if you would be interested in picking some of these up.

OEM Nitrile rubber O-ring after 75 miles
IMG_0372.jpg



Silicone O-ring after 225 miles
IMG_0377.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,777 Posts
I just greased all 4 of my spherical bearings with Mobil 1 synthetic grease and all my O-rings were fine after 222 miles. I didn't noticed any damage or wear. All my bushings came out easy with the exception of one shock. I had to give a little more effort by using a screwdriver to slowly pop out the metal bushing. 2 of my shocks I could pull the bushings out with my fingers. 3 out of the 4 shocks were dry but I did have 1 shock that still had a slight film of lubricant in the bearing. Almost like WD-40 constancy. I did see slight scouring though in 1 of my shocks.

Heavy, I would be interested in buying a set of the silicone O-rings for future replacement. PM me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i am thinking of drill and tapping the eye of the shock and installing a grease zerk so i can lube the joints easily and often too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
I just greased all 4 of my spherical bearings with Mobil 1 synthetic grease and all my O-rings were fine after 222 miles. I didn't noticed any damage or wear. All my bushings came out easy with the exception of one shock. I had to give a little more effort by using a screwdriver to slowly pop out the metal bushing. 2 of my shocks I could pull the bushings out with my fingers. 3 out of the 4 shocks were dry but I did have 1 shock that still had a slight film of lubricant in the bearing. Almost like WD-40 constancy. I did see slight scouring though in 1 of my shocks.

Heavy, I would be interested in buying a set of the silicone O-rings for future replacement. PM me.

PM sent...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
anyone just use 1/2" bolts and toss the 10mm reducers?
I wonder if you can upgrade to the 2014 hardware? I took mine apart before my first ride to grease and I believe they are 12mm bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
I'll buy a set of silicone for all 4 for my Max.
I am in the process of getting the specs on the 2014 models as they are aparently different than the 2013's. Once I have the correct dimensions, I will place an order and have them in stock hopefully within a weeks time. Please check back in a few days or so and I will let you know when I have them in stock and ready to take orders for the 2014's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
If you pressure wash as we all do, the excessive water pressure will work into the shock bearings. I take mine loose after every wash and grease them, and yes there is water in them. It's a 15 minute fix. I don't like to do this, but this is what will happen with what ever grease and what ever O rings you use. It just won't with stand 2500 - 3500 PSI water pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,381 Posts
anyone just use 1/2" bolts and toss the 10mm reducers?
The bushings are there so that they wear instead of the spherical bearing.....if you put in a larger bolt, you will still need a bushing of the correct width to mount them as well as hold the O-ring in place to create a seal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
The bushings are there so that they wear instead of the spherical bearing.....if you put in a larger bolt, you will still need a bushing of the correct width to mount them as well as hold the O-ring in place to create a seal.
I can drill out my current spacers and use them with the 1/2" bolts. Price difference in spherical ball to bushings will be a wash.

Grease zerk into the ball should help too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
I wonder if you can upgrade to the 2014 hardware? I took mine apart before my first ride to grease and I believe they are 12mm bolts.
That's something I'd like to know. I wasn't aware there was any difference in them until now. Maybe somebody with both could post some pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Ronaldn0519
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top