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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '18 XRC and at slow driveway speeds and up I have a rattling/rolling/box of rocks type noise. I took it to the dealer a while back when it was under warranty and they said it was a common problem and they "Pinned the driveshaft". When I asked about that, they said there is play in the driveshaft splines so there is a factory TSB to drill a hole in the driveshaft and insert a screw to eliminate the slack in the splines.
Same problem persists. As an auto repair guy for the last 100 years I would describe it like a bad/noisey carrier bearing. Any repetition on this out there?
Thanks,
mg
 

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I had a similar experience with mine. What I finally found after removing the carrier bearing was very fine pieces of gravel almos sand size had got between a small metal sheld made on the carrier bearing and the drive shaft. Removed the carrier cleaned everything and reinstalled the bearing. As for the fix your dealer spoke of instead of a screw I installed a grease zero in the yoke that splines on the shaft. To insure grease could get all the way around the splines. I took a dremel tool with a very small cutoff wheel and cut a groove in line with the zero all the way around the inside of the yoke. Now if I start feeling a vibration I can access the zero from the area wher the shaft connects to the front differential. It’s hard to reach but I can get it in a couple minutes without taking anything apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had a similar experience with mine. What I finally found after removing the carrier bearing was very fine pieces of gravel almos sand size had got between a small metal sheld made on the carrier bearing and the drive shaft. Removed the carrier cleaned everything and reinstalled the bearing. As for the fix your dealer spoke of instead of a screw I installed a grease zero in the yoke that splines on the shaft. To insure grease could get all the way around the splines. I took a dremel tool with a very small cutoff wheel and cut a groove in line with the zero all the way around the inside of the yoke. Now if I start feeling a vibration I can access the zero from the area wher the shaft connects to the front differential. It’s hard to reach but I can get it in a couple minutes without taking anything apart.
With the skid plate being riveted on (who's idea was that anyway) did you have to drill out all the rivets and re-rivet the whole thing when done? Thanks.
 

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I had a similar experience with mine. What I finally found after removing the carrier bearing was very fine pieces of gravel almos sand size had got between a small metal sheld made on the carrier bearing and the drive shaft. Removed the carrier cleaned everything and reinstalled the bearing. As for the fix your dealer spoke of instead of a screw I installed a grease zero in the yoke that splines on the shaft. To insure grease could get all the way around the splines. I took a dremel tool with a very small cutoff wheel and cut a groove in line with the zero all the way around the inside of the yoke. Now if I start feeling a vibration I can access the zero from the area wher the shaft connects to the front differential. It’s hard to reach but I can get it in a couple minutes without taking anything apart.
With the skid plate being riveted on (who's idea was that anyway) did you have to drill out all the rivets and re-rivet the whole thing when done? Thanks.
Yup, the rivets are / were a terrible idea. PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yup, that's the noise. Same question. What's rattling. The guy can stop it with his hand. Seems like something is vibrating against another component. Would have been nice if there was some solution with the video. Also, is it an imminent failure? I'm getting ready to go for a multi day ride and don't want to be 'that guy".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also, I couldn't tell if the unit was on a lift and in gear or sitting still and just raising up the idle.
 

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If lifting up on the carrier bearing makes the rattle go away, consider just putting some spacers underneath it if you just want to keep it stock. I did this to mine and it straightened out the angle between the long and short driveshafts and reduced the vibe in 4wd by quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Follow up. I ordered a new updated carrier bearing from Super ATV - which comes with a grease zerk, and went at it. What a giant pain in the a$$. In fact everything about working on these things is a pain. Even changing the oil. The oil (if you can ever get to the drain plug, drains right onto a cross member then fills the skid plate with oil. Filling the oil? Really? A buried oil fill that doesn't allow for you to actually get a quart of oil in there and pour it. Oil filter? First you have to get the unit up to operating temperature to drain the oil, then the oil filter is nestled right under the hot exhaust. And it's impossible to replace without dripping oil all over the place. I've been in the auto garage business working on cars for 30 years, so this stuff comes to me pretty well, but working on this thing is a drag. But I digress. I followed the instructions and after removing the driver seat so I could twist my body around to remove the hidden C clip holding the old carrier bearing, I was able to complete the replacment. I greased all the driveline splines along the way (they looked very dry - for all I know, this was the problem all along), put everything back together and thankfully the noise is gone and the thing is smooth as butter. Now, looking back, it seems that the noise was causing a vibration as well, because the unit feels much smoother now. Relief. So thanks again for the input. Gotta go, time to roost!!
 

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I bet your carrier bearing was fine. It’s a known issue of the splines being dry and causing that exact noise. Mine did grease everything and good to go


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Discussion Starter #18
I bet your carrier bearing was fine. It’s a known issue of the splines being dry and causing that exact noise. Mine did grease everything and good to go


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Yeah, knowing what I know now, I may have just disassembled and lubed the driveling splines. But that's almost as much work as replacing the carrier bearing as well. So, for under $100 I got all that done and now I have a much nicer carrier with a zerk, so its all good.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you do not have time to change it now, carry one with you in case it fails. Here is the follow up video to the one I posted before.

Carry one with you in case it fails? I'm pretty damn good at working on these things. It took me several hours in the controlled environment of my garage with every tool I own at my disposal and frankly it still sucked to replace this center bearing. There is absolutely no way this is a trail side job in my opinion.
mg
 

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I am a professional diesel tech by trade. I can replace the carrier bearing on the trail in about 10 min. If you pull the drive line off the rear spines you can look right at the snap ring. Makes life much easier. I tried the sand craft. It did not work for me (Vibration). I have replaced the stock one about 3 times in about 1700 miles. For about $40 I will just keep replacing the stock ones. I have also replaced the drive line. That was a royal pain.
 
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