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Discussion Starter #1
First off the spring installation is easy and just takes a little time. The front springs were initially set up at 1/4" preload as the instructions called for. However it looked like that might have caused about 3/8" loss in ride height so I reset the preload at 1/2" which brought the ride height back to normal. Just doing the bounce test on the front you can tell the suspension is looser but the rear seems about the same and is likely due to the anti sway bar. Shock settings for all 4 corners are damping full clockwise and both compression full counter clockwise.
So on the first ride we started out on a trail that is rutted and littered with embedded rocks as well as an occasional small whoop section. Good testing ground. Initially started out pretty slow, following 2 other riders, and I'm still feeling pretty much everything in the trail. So I went ahead of the other riders and picked up the speed, not flat out but still sliding through the corners. The springs are a pretty good improvement but there's still a lot of similarities to stock. What I mean there is the front is way better than the rear and you've got to push the speeds to make it work. The faster you go the better the ride and yes it is better than stock. With my compression turned off like I had it I know that I would have bottomed out several times on the ride but with these springs I only bottomed out once and I pretty much did that on purpose just to see if it would do it. Granted I did not push to hard through whoops most of the day but I was impressed with that part of the springs.
I think I'm going to at least try setting the rear preload back down to 1/4" for my next ride. My hope is with doing that I can soften the ride some more to the point where I can make shock adjustments to compensate for the higher speed rides. There's still more tuning to go but I think that while the springs are a good addition, I'm still going to need to have the internal valving done to get it right.
I wish I'd had my camera on for some video but I'd loaned it to a buddy who was running the autocross at the Good Guys Spring Nationals show (he won the hot rod division too). Anyhow, in 2 weeks I have 3 days of camping and riding and I'll get some video with the tuning I do then.
 

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How come you did not have your shocks re-valved too? I would think with a spring rate change re-valving would be needed to get the most out of the shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How come you did not have your shocks re-valved too? I would think with a spring rate change re-valving would be needed to get the most out of the shock.
And my wife wants a house on the beach too. Hey, I'll get it done eventually. I want to try and find someone who can do it local though, I just don't want to hassle with the shipping. My wife always says 'now what' when the brown truck parks out front.

Here's a pic of the rear springs new and old side by side for comparison.

DSCN1592.JPG
 

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LOL! That is a big difference. I bet you will be even happier once your shocks are valved for the new springs.
 

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I 've been saving some money so I can hopefully do both this off-season
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another note. Rode all day with my buddy in his Mav Max so it's all the same trails, same speeds and everything. When we tested the shock temps by grabbing the resevoir his were noticably hotter where you couldn't grab it and hold on. Mine are usually like that too but not this time so I can only guess that might mean that the shocks are having to do less work....maybe?? Not sure but all I know is the shocks are usually about the same temp on each car even though his is a heavier Max. I might need to bring my laser temp gauge on the next ride. Might be interesting to see what those temps are after a good run.
 

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Another note. Rode all day with my buddy in his Mav Max so it's all the same trails, same speeds and everything. When we tested the shock temps by grabbing the resevoir his were noticably hotter where you couldn't grab it and hold on. Mine are usually like that too but not this time so I can only guess that might mean that the shocks are having to do less work....maybe?? Not sure but all I know is the shocks are usually about the same temp on each car even though his is a heavier Max. I might need to bring my laser temp gauge on the next ride. Might be interesting to see what those temps are after a good run.

check the front shocks as the rear will be hotter or cooler with driving style , (heat from exhaust)
 

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First off the spring installation is easy and just takes a little time. The front springs were initially set up at 1/4" preload as the instructions called for. However it looked like that might have caused about 3/8" loss in ride height so I reset the preload at 1/2" which brought the ride height back to normal. Just doing the bounce test on the front you can tell the suspension is looser but the rear seems about the same and is likely due to the anti sway bar. Shock settings for all 4 corners are damping full clockwise and both compression full counter clockwise.
So on the first ride we started out on a trail that is rutted and littered with embedded rocks as well as an occasional small whoop section. Good testing ground. Initially started out pretty slow, following 2 other riders, and I'm still feeling pretty much everything in the trail. So I went ahead of the other riders and picked up the speed, not flat out but still sliding through the corners. The springs are a pretty good improvement but there's still a lot of similarities to stock. What I mean there is the front is way better than the rear and you've got to push the speeds to make it work. The faster you go the better the ride and yes it is better than stock. With my compression turned off like I had it I know that I would have bottomed out several times on the ride but with these springs I only bottomed out once and I pretty much did that on purpose just to see if it would do it. Granted I did not push to hard through whoops most of the day but I was impressed with that part of the springs.
I think I'm going to at least try setting the rear preload back down to 1/4" for my next ride. My hope is with doing that I can soften the ride some more to the point where I can make shock adjustments to compensate for the higher speed rides. There's still more tuning to go but I think that while the springs are a good addition, I'm still going to need to have the internal valving done to get it right.
I wish I'd had my camera on for some video but I'd loaned it to a buddy who was running the autocross at the Good Guys Spring Nationals show (he won the hot rod division too). Anyhow, in 2 weeks I have 3 days of camping and riding and I'll get some video with the tuning I do then.[/QUOeTE]

Whats your ride height with 1/2 preload?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ride height was about 12 1/2" after a ride around the block. Didn't check it again after the ride. Stock was 13" when new and the tires have worn a lot with 1100 miles. Big Horn 2s are just 2 soft.
 

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I don't know if you can just get any shock specialist to rework your shock internals,
I would presume a lot of trial and error goes into bringing together a proven package ,
A lot of the cost in shocks is in the R & D time , which is done by someone that needs to make a living.
You could get someone local but be prepared to have them off and on / apart to dial things in. Unless they jag it first time. Just a thought.


From ' The Land Down Under ' .
 
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Discussion Starter #11
check the front shocks as the rear will be hotter or cooler with driving style , (heat from exhaust)
Good point, never thought of that. We usually just check the rears because that's where we're standing. Probably because that's where the beer cooler is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't know if you can just get any shock specialist to rework your shock internals,
I would presume a lot of trial and error goes into bringing together a proven package ,
A lot of the cost in shocks is in the R & D time , which is done by someone that needs to make a living.
You could get someone local but be prepared to have them off and on / apart to dial things in. Unless they jag it first time. Just a thought.


From ' The Land Down Under ' .
I thought I might go talk to the guys at Lonestar Racing and see who's done their work. I think they did some work with the factory can am team.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did a lot of riding over the last week and as of now my final set up for sag is 1/2" front and 1" rear. I carry a fairly full gear box and plenty of cold brews on the rack so the extra sag in the rear seemed to help quite a bit. The front is still far better though but now the rear gives a much improved ride and never bottomed no matter what I did. Pretty happy with the springs overall but looking back on it I think it might have been best to do shock internals first. I still plan to do the internals but I don't know when or who will do it yet. I think AReed has the best prices and I see no reason why his valving would not work with the RacerTech springs just as good as any other vendor.
 

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Most people who do valving are going to want to go with there system. I had mine set up with Don at Thuren Fabrication, we spent about 6 months of testing from the dunes to the race track. We live about 10 minutes from each other and he has been valving shocks for 10-15 yrs. So you might want to talk with racer tech about the internals. I can take 2-3 ft whoops at 50 plus mph and the ride is butter smooth. The best mod you can do is have a pro revalve/spring your shocks hands down. No other mod comes close.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey MaxAZ,
Did you go with the medium or the heavy dual-rate springs?
Lift kit too, or none?
Just curious - thanks for the report.
I got one of the first sets of springs and I believe they were all medium duty. No lift kit on my car.
 
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