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so is the only way to switch to the one way bearing is to send it back to STM??

As it was explained to me. yes. In theory, the aftermarket clutches with the one way bearings are supposed to function just like the stock clutches and engine break all the way down to almost a stop. But the issue is the aftermarket clutches have a much smaller diameter bearing so when the primary disengages and the belt rests on the one way bearing, it SHOULD provide engine braking like the stock primary clutch. Unfortunately, they don't……and as it was explained to me, it is mostly due to the smaller diameter of the one way bearing (i.e. less surface area = less contact to the belt) and it's inability to grip the belt without it slipping. It also has a little to do with the secondary and the design of the STM helix which doesn't squeeze the belt as tightly as the stock secondary when engine braking. Apparently, this design works fine on the ATV's due to less load/weight applied during the braking. But is not able to do so effectively on a SxS. So by switching to a 2 way bearing, you will still have the same level of engine braking as a one way bearing setup but if/when the RPM's drop low enough and the primary disengages, the belt will now ride on the 2 way bearing and allow you to freewheel (coast) instead of slipping on the one way bearing and potentially burning it up as I did as well as a few others.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
I am sure you could do it yourself if you have the right tools such as a spider removal tool. I do not, so I am sending mine back to QSC.
 

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As it was explained to me. yes. In theory, the aftermarket clutches with the one way bearings are supposed to function just like the stock clutches and engine break all the way down to almost a stop. But the issue is the aftermarket clutches have a much smaller diameter bearing so when the primary disengages and the belt rests on the one way bearing, it SHOULD provide engine braking like the stock primary clutch. Unfortunately, they don't……and as it was explained to me, it is mostly due to the smaller diameter of the one way bearing (i.e. less surface area = less contact to the belt) and it's inability to grip the belt without it slipping. It also has a little to do with the secondary and the design of the STM helix which doesn't squeeze the belt as tightly as the stock secondary when engine braking. Apparently, this design works fine on the ATV's due to less load/weight applied during the braking. But is not able to do so effectively on a SxS. So by switching to a 2 way bearing, you will still have the same level of engine braking as a one way bearing setup but if/when the RPM's drop low enough and the primary disengages, the belt will now ride on the 2 way bearing and allow you to freewheel (coast) instead of slipping on the one way bearing and potentially burning it up as I did as well as a few others.
Well I am going to ask Kris about converting my QSC primary to a 2-way bearing. My only concern is my wife driving the Maverick. I could get use to the different riding style but for her I don't think it may work out especially if we go down some steep dune hills. Telling her to gas it a little as we plummet might be too unnatural for her to adjust. Plus my teenage kids will want to ride so my risk is high that I will probably burn up a belt.
 

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Did anyone install the shim to raise the rpm where the clutch engage or are you running it without the shim.

Just got my clutches installed today and it feels as if the clutch is engaging right at Idling speed......

When I shift from h ~ l or r it feels as if there is tension on the transmission already....

Maverick does not creep at idling. Brand new belt and clutches.

Will go for a ride this weekend.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

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Belt tension is to tight, add 1 fiber shim to secondary that should fix it.
 

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You can also ride it enough to get the belt broken in and then the little bit of belt stretch could fix it without installing the shim
 
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