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Just did mine a couple weeks ago and copied the guy who cut fingers into the rear skid and riveted the middle skid with washers (about 5.5mm shim) so the rear one would slide in. Works well but it's really up to you if you think it's worth all the hassle. I like it cuz I don't like all that mess in there. I can remove the rear slid in probably less than 5min.
There's a pretty good thread on this project.
 

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Yes they overlap so if you only want to rivnut the rear then like bones said you can install washers and cut slots in the skidplate so the rear section will slide under the front section.
Picture shows some of the washers I got at Ace riveted onto the front skid and you can see how it leaves a gap for the rear skid to slide in. You can get the good steel rivets at Ace also.

20180310_120020.jpg

As shown circled in this pic cut these holes into slots.

20180304_213119.jpg
 

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Just fyi, the BRP rivet is p/n 293150108 and my dealer sold them to me @ 70 cents. They list for double or triple that but he goes into the back (if/when I ask) and comes out with a better price. Very strange. Didn't know you could get them from Ace or I'd have gone there.
Also countersunk the skid hole with a 7/8" fostner bit a little more for the 1" sidewalk (hurricane) bolts per the other thread on this project. Those bolts only come in 1/4-20 as far as I can tell. I did use a bit of blue loctite and it's holding well so far. Hopefully they'll come out when the time comes. Added red loctite to rivnut on install; hope those never come loose.
Good winter project!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I plan to rivnut all the locations. Did the front winch skid and front bottom skid already and it worked well. Kind of a b!tch to drill out the rivets, but worth it in the long run. I'm using 5mm rivnuts with 5mm x 16 flanged panhead machine screws (hex drive). Using anti-seize not Loctite -- don't want to ever spin a rivnut and will check the machine screws often. Fortunately I have a four-post list to work under...
 

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Do yourself a favor and wait until you get the new skid plate to drill the locations for the nut certs. I did all the rivets!!lol I have a few extra nut certs now that I am not using!!lol

One other thing is I have a air tool and a hand tool. I always use the hand tool to tighten the nut certs to frame. You will be able to tell how hard you are crimping them. I install them at the set height first then unscrew the arbor about 2 turns then tighten them again. JMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Umm, I'm not buying a new skid...

I have the AP ADN14 drill adapter tool and it works very well for setting the rivnuts.

Do yourself a favor and wait until you get the new skid plate to drill the locations for the nut certs. I did all the rivets!!lol I have a few extra nut certs now that I am not using!!lol

One other thing is I have a air tool and a hand tool. I always use the hand tool to tighten the nut certs to frame. You will be able to tell how hard you are crimping them. I install them at the set height first then unscrew the arbor about 2 turns then tighten them again. JMHO
 

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I haven’t seen that Astro ADN14 tool before. It is pretty neat. I was just about to purchase the new river tool from Wurth.
https://www.wurthusa.com/Tools/Rivet-Tools/Riveters-Rivet-Guns/Rivet-Nut-Ratchet-Kit-with-Mandrels-M4,M5,M6,M8,M10,M12/p/5964094803?utm_source=Wurth USA Inc&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=10306539_Rivet Nut Ratchet Kit-Customer&utm_content=Wurth Electrical Button&dm_i=1ZK1,64WKR,OOCRM5,O4E7L,1
but I might give the Astro a try.

Umm, I'm not buying a new skid...

I have the AP ADN14 drill adapter tool and it works very well for setting the rivnuts.
 

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Just when you thought you owned every tool you'd ever need (besides a 2 or 4 post lift), looks like I'll be investing in one of those Astro ADN14 adapter tools.
Great find, thanks for the info.
 

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That's quite the pricey tool! I bought the Astro PRN1 on ebay for $190. Worked well for me. When It came to the overlap section between the 2 skids and after removing the rear skid, I poked the PRN1 through the skid, put a few fender washers between the mandrel and the rivnut and set it into the frame. The skid slides in place and both sections are held by the rivnuts.

 

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I appologize tot he OP....I did not see that he was just doing this to the stock skid plate. I have used a few different tools and honestly, the Astro hand held has been exceptionally good for the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I appologize tot he OP....I did not see that he was just doing this to the stock skid plate. I have used a few different tools and honestly, the Astro hand held has been exceptionally good for the price.
No apology needed... ;)

I have a liking for nice tools (my wife calls it a ‘problem’); someday my kids are going to inherit a very well equipped shop!
 

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Myself and a few others on here have the same "problem" but thank goodness there are no AA type groups for that!!!
 

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I like that the sand washes out from top of the rear skid easier due to the small stand-off from the rivnut (about 1mm). Maybe it'll just get clogged with bigger grains. Ha.
 

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Another vote for the ADN 14 tool. I did all of mine with that tool and it's outstanding. I chose not to notch the plates and just loosen two additional screws to allow the plates to slide back in when done. It's a pain to do but sooo worth it in my opinion. No mess oil changes and easy inspection was worth every minute I spent doing it. Eventually I will also do the rivets on the fenders, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, an update on the project.

As I mentioned, I used 5mm panhead screws (and Rivnuts) for my rear skid. After a weekend at Superstition, where we only rode maybe 6 - 7 hours total (over two days), I found that about half my screws are missing from the rear plate.

I used anti-sieze on the screws to ensure I could get them out in future and I don't yet know if they vibrated or pulled out with the 5mm threads being not 'beefy' enough in the Rivnut. Once I see what happens when I thread a new screw in -- whether it's stripped, very loose, etc. -- I'll have a better idea. And Loctite would be the next solution if I think it's vibration.

Fortunately I haven't done the front skid yet, so if I have to drill out the 5mm Rivnuts and go larger I'll have fewer to do... ;)

The main reason I chose 5mm Rivnuts is due to the 7.1mm hole I needed to drill -- figured a smaller hole in the frame would be better for the frame's overall integrity.
 
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