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So the “hydraulic” pressure is the way to go then.

how many degrees do you pitch the car to?
If you use grease, you can stay level.
Just make sure you clean up any lubricant from the tapers prior to re-installation.
Also make sure there is no remaining grease in the hole for the securing bolt.
If there is remaining grease in the hole you can get a hydraulic lock up and the bolt will not torque up properly.
 

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If you use grease, you can stay level.
Just make sure you clean up any lubricant from the tapers prior to re-installation.
Also make sure there is no remaining grease in the hole for the securing bolt.
If there is remaining grease in the hole you can get a hydraulic lock up and the bolt will not torque up properly.
I used the grease trick when I had my XP1000. Clutch would not pop off no matter when I did. Finally did the grease trick and it popped off.


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Just for general information: water or grease does not compress!
I it would, it would act like a spring, it does not. It simply transmits force.
The water or grease trick works because you are forcing a small plunger in to a larger cavity displacing the water or grease; the water or grease builds up pressure against the surface of the shaft end.
The larger surface area of the shaft end, compared to the smaller surface area of the plunger (tool end) is the force multiplier.
I thought that was what said.
 

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So there is a hydraulic force because the crankshaft area is larger than the tip of the tool. Thanks! Tim
Back in college I think my physics professor explained it best. Not sure if my numbers are correct after all these years but I think he said "a 100 lb lady wearing spiked heels with a 1/4" tip can apply 1000 lbs of pressure to the top of your foot when angry".
 
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Back in college I think my physics professor explained it best. Not sure if my numbers are correct after all these years but I think he said "a 100 lb lady wearing spiked heels with a 1/4" tip can apply 1000 lbs of pressure to the top of your foot when angry".
More like 1600psi
 

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More like 1600psi
Yeah, 2 seconds after every post it hits me I didn't quite nail it. Getting old and lazy I guess.
 

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I removed my primary off the x3 RR two days ago using the Clutch Bolt wrapped with teflon and water poured in the bolt hole, I may be confused but when you all are talking about using water or grease are you using the clutch puller or the clutch bolt?
 

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I removed my primary off the x3 RR two days ago using the Clutch Bolt wrapped with teflon and water poured in the bolt hole, I may be confused but when you all are talking about using water or grease are you using the clutch puller or the clutch bolt?
Either one will work.
 

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I just walked in your club....

Tool has broken deep inside my STM primary. I have tried water and grease methods but did not pull it off, and eventually snapping the puller in the middle.
I probably have no option but to destroy the clutch by cutting it in two halfs, splitting it open.

STM, HERE I COME FOR A REPLACEMENT
 

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What would be the means to keep this from happening in the future? Hopefully mine will cooperate in the meantime.
I'm about to swap my OEM with the STM.
 

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You gotta stop with the impact if it's not coming out. Keeping going until it breaks is worse. Did you grease the threads of the tool? You can try heating the clutch with a MAP torch and hope to expand the aluminum so it pops off...might be a long shot
 

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I just walked in your club....

Tool has broken deep inside my STM primary. I have tried water and grease methods but did not pull it off, and eventually snapping the puller in the middle.
I probably have no option but to destroy the clutch by cutting it in two halfs, splitting it open.

STM, HERE I COME FOR A REPLACEMENT
First thing I'd try is to disassemble the primary, remove the bearing and heat the area under the bearing.
Use a troch so you get a quick heat up and expansion.
 

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stm has a history of getting stuck on the crank
caused by the clutch moving on the crank
the 3 cly motor has crazy harmonics that causes many problems
 

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First thing I'd try is to disassemble the primary, remove the bearing and heat the area under the bearing.
Use a troch so you get a quick heat up and expansion.
I believe that it is extremely difficult to undo the bolt the holds the spider and the movable sheave while the clutch is on the engine. It is locktited and tourqed very high.

And it would require special STM tools as well, which I do not have.
 

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I believe that it is extremely difficult to undo the bolt the holds the spider and the movable sheave while the clutch is on the engine. It is locktited and tourqed very high.

And it would require special STM tools as well, which I do not have.
You give up to easily; to remove the outer part of the primary involves no bolts; it just sits on the taper.
Adapt a slide hammer to the outer assy and give it a go!
 
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